Technical *** January 2016 Banger Meet - New Year and Old Bangers ***

Don't use bolts!!! You will not get the same clamp load with bolts. Studs have a fine thread on the nut.
If you have to pull the engine only to change a head gasket, you should feel very lucky!!!
(Just saying)
Oh yeah, Happy new year and good luck!
Joe

 

From my limited experience I tend to agree with you however, the previous owner of this head is very well known here in so cal and he says he ran this head using bolts for 20K miles before he replaced it with a repop model. Says he blew two head gaskets until he O ringed the block. I may be going to studs though.

 

He may have used hi quality fine thread Helicoils in his block?
I would guess he didn't though cause that may have been the reason he blew the gaskets!?
Joe

 

Have you tried to only put the front bolt in then the rear one without all the rest? Do you have tools to measure accurately, calipers, center distance from the front to back holes? What type of bolts are you using? Hardware store?

 

Once you get your alignment problems cured, I believe ARP makes a stud with a recessed allen (hex) in the top of the stud. this may help with the clearance problems as the stud can be installed like a bolt and then give the clamping strength of a stud. Hope this helps.

 

Yes, good question. I am unable to get just those two bolts in at the same time with no others installed. I'm using grade 8 bolts purchased from an industrial hardware store. I have several other blocks so I'm going to try mounting the head on a different block just to see if it fits OK.

 

I'll be checking out these studs, thanks.

 

It sounds to me as the threads for the left front bolt hole I'd not perpendicular to the block. A couple of thoughts.
1. Make sure all your bolts / studs are straight.
2. You may try installing a stud to measure the squareness of the bolt hole to the block surface. Maybe a helicoil was not correctly installed, or maybe the block was not decked squarely.
3. You could place the head gasket on the block and head to make sure the bolt holes line up for each.
4. Put the studs in the block and check to see if the gasket can slide all the way up and down the studs without binding.

Just some thoughts to check to find what is causing the problem.

 

Well, it seems to me that the problem is in the head. I installed the head on a different B block today with similar results. I'm thinking I might throw that head on the Bridgeport and elongate that one hole.

 

That is one of the coolest looking things I have seen here.

 

Happyest in the New Year to all....sold my old shop....here's the move to the new....we will need to pop off that fresh rebuilt BANGER sometime soon.....been on the stand for tooooo many years

 

I am shopping for a fuel pump and regulator for my coupe project. I planning on running a single 97 using the stock fuel tank. I was wondering what everyone is using. I also have a question about what 12V alternator is a good choice for my banger too. A single wire internally regulated unit is what I would like. I would like to get the 12V one that looks like a generator but my pockets aren't that deep. Thanks in advance.

John

 

I run the "mr.gasket" (1-4#) electric with a cheap regulator on my weber . been working for like 8 yrs ........... ive also had a 12vdc 1 wire alternator for many many years . no problems

 

Trick. :\
Find a 1928 Powerhouse generator.... and a small internally regulated alternator from something like a Suzuki or GEO etc... I buy them from pickapart for $15. Some of the good ones output over 60 amps.
Gut the Powerhouse generator, keep the shaft and pulley and the outer housing. Sell the armature and field coils etc to a pedantic restorer..
Make spacers to center the small Jap alternator inside the generator housing and adapt/modify the original shaft to drive the alternator. The alternator will be a little too long, but the rear half of the Powerhouse is only made of sheetmetal , roll a band of sheetmetal wide enough to give some clearance and extend the cover. You will need to make a new wire bale . Once done and painted a dark color it is very hard to tell from the original generator . Powerhouse is bigger diameter than the later generator which makes it easier to fit the alternator inside. People have suggested that the alternator may overheat , but I have the very first one I made on a friends car, been there for years with no ill effects. Has toured extensively and even driven through several fords ( river crossings) ..still going strong.

 

I mounted a v8 generator, converted to 12v to my motor. 30 amp output vs. the 10 amps you get from a model A generator. I hid the voltage regulator on the interior side of the fire wall. works great and keeps the traditional look.

 

Don't waste your time w a cheap regulator. I watched multiple people have trouble w them at trog. I bought a holly regulator for less than 30 bucks from summit and never had a single fuel pressure issue yet.
I run a carter 6v pump w it also.

 

Thanks for all the comments. I did a little online shopping and a look through some catalogs I have and I like the carter pumps and Holley or maybe Offy reg.
Great tech on the power house gen. Now to find a parts one. Ha!

 

I like Walbro pumps, (some have a regulator attached ). FR series particularly the FRB...they are made in USA ( Tuscon) and have so many failsafes its not funny... just about impossible to break, and life expectancy is 18000 hours. Otherwise the Facet Cube Solid State pump or the new Posiflow are good and reliable , they say the low pressure ones do not need a regulator.
I saying that I would probably go for the FRB Walbro and a Malpassi Filter King regulator , they are built on an old style glass bowl filter , and do not look out of place on a Model A...

 

Thanks again. I will have to look at those Walbro pumps. I like the suggestion about the items looking vintage.

 

http://www.officinamalpassi.it/en/
Look under marine applications for one with a corrosion resistant coating (black), you can also have the reg without a filter or the filter with a metal bowl.

 

thank you all ! this has turned into a great site .................... steve

 

What is the best option for a lightened flywheel for my model b engine and trans? Trying to bring a little more muscle to trog this year w my banger powered car. It's going to be a 31 coupe or my 29 roadster. I have a stock b engine that has been freshened up. Going to stick w b distributor and get a lion head again. Might try dual 81s on a downdraft intake. But I really want to put a lighter flywheel in it this year.

 

Great looking filter and regulator in one! I will definitely check into those further. Are they available in the states or just from Italy on that website?

 

Jimmy is doing one for me from an A flywheel. I can have him do another while he is set up. I got the specs (with correction) from an old FAST magazine.

 

speaking of FAST Magazine, has anybody received the #4 issue for 2015?

 

not here ............

 

A friend just sent me this!

 

Are you going to enter that bad ass roadster?

 

Been waiting for a west coast TROG for awhile. I will be there but cant race the Tudor so i'm gonna look for another coupe or roadster body

 

Oh, (HELL YEAH!)