Phtttttt an A V8 none on here has ever built one. I may have put a flatty or two in a coupe or two over the years. Its really no big deal. They pretty much will slide in any place you can put a modern V8
If you use the exellent Tardel/Bishop book just remeber there is some misinformation regarding the positioning of the engine mounts in the frame. Let the rear end with torque tube determine where the mounts should be, NOT the information in the book. I know this first hand . Lots of good advice in this thread, thank you!
And here it's shown in pictures The gearbox needs to come back 3/4" And the mounts are already to far forward in the frame
One thing I had to watch was clearance on lower radiator inlets. I left front mounts and k member loose until I got everything to work and fit. John
Not the first time I heard this. I'm glad I didn't buy the Tardel book. Vern is not the only guy who can use a tape measure. . . .
I've got a copy of the Tardel book that I've had for quite a while and while it isn't perfect it is a hell of a good reference to add to the rest of your reference library. I'd say that stands for any engine trans torque tube or no. Mount the trans first where it needs to be and then level it up with the placement of the front mounts. Over the years I've found that step makes things a lot easier all around. I follow this thread pretty close because of the good solid advice in it and hope to have a rolling ch***is in the next few months.
If your using a v8 rear,why would you cut off the stock hangers and put the spring on top? And then make a step in the frame to get it lower? You've just doubled your workload! Use the v8 rear as is,torque tube shortened,obviously,extend the frame,moving the model a crossmember straight back 7.5",no z in frame,use the model a spring,it bolts right up to 38-40 style rear,seven leaves. It's by far the easiest,strongest way!
That's one way to do it if you want to extend your frame... If you don't want to extend your frame, then you're changing hangers and spring location, a**** a mul***ude of other options.
You should still read that book @wheeldog57 I think what you're describing is actually where the design for some of the aftermarket A frames came from. The one Speedway carries has a bow out in the back, which I believe can be used as a perch for a V8 low arch spring. They sell a couple kits for this kind of rear crossmember if that's what you want to do but you could cut your own up too. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Model-A-Rear-Crossmember,61423.html Alternately, flip the bells on the rear and shorten the frame (which may be easier than lengthening it). And in defense of the Z, you can gain a bit of length control with the length and width of the box tubing you use to do the operation. I shortened mine because that's what fit my rather oddball build the best. I brought mine in about 7.5" as I recall. This makes the rails attached to the crossmember want to align about a quarter inch out. I took some quarter inch plate and clamped it to the bottom rails on each outer side, then used angle to clamp everything flush and square it back up. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...build-preliminary.751582/page-7#post-10993883 Though there are certainly challenges running spring in front as far as your bones, shackles, and just getting the spring on there, FYI.
Extending the frame,or z ing the frame is the same amount of work. Where you save is the fact that you don't have to modify the rear. You do floor mods either way.
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