Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects tonight i made a bracket for my new brake light switch...all i have to do is extend the original wir

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cobalt333, Feb 2, 2016.

  1. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    tonight i made a bracket for my new brake light switch...all i have to do is extend the original wires to it...mark another thing i had no clue how to do done... ;/
     

    Attached Files:

    RICH B likes this.
  2. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,658

    RMONTY
    Member

    Looks like it came out just like you planned....solid work!
     
  3. 56 Dodge Pickup
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,835

    56 Dodge Pickup
    Member

    looks like it should function nicely keep trying stuff thats how we learn Hobo Jim
     
  4. chargin03
    Joined: Jan 8, 2013
    Posts: 518

    chargin03
    Member

  5. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,577

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    isn't that switch backwards?
    doesn't it open when pushed?
     
    RICH B likes this.
  6. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,128

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Good job.. I like making things...
     
  7. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,920

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I was thinking the same thing, those switches are open when released and close when pushed.
    switch.jpg
     
  8. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,624

    badshifter
    Member

    It's definitely backwards, and the little arm extension on the end will come loose in a short time. What we all mean by backwards is, the switch should be in your case on the FRONT side of the pedal, pressed while at rest, and release when you step on the brakes. Those arm switches are primarily made for floor mount pedals. A conventional push*****on brake switch, or in line pressure switch would be easier to install.
     
  9. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    figures....never right the first time... can someone post a part number for that switch that would work with these after market fire wall mounted brake booster hanging pedal setup I bought... thanks
     
  10. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    It would be easier to use a pressure switch spliced into a brake line. Buy a good one from NAPA.
     
  11. 54fierro
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 493

    54fierro
    Member
    from san diego

    Don't the later Ford switches mount onto the pin. Not to familiar with them but seem to remember they mount onto the brake pushrod somehow.
    Hopefully somebody with more Ford knowledge can chime in.
     
  12. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    when you say inline pressure switch is it the 3 pic im showing or can something be put in the second pic like pic 1?
     

    Attached Files:

  13. 270ci
    Joined: May 17, 2010
    Posts: 484

    270ci
    Member

    Pic #1 is what you want. It's a simple pressure switch that you screw it into a "T" fitting installed in a brake line coming out of your master, or anywhere in the system that's convenient, but not downstream of any residual pressure valve, if you have any in your system. When it sees a little pressure from the master cylinder, it will make the contacts and your brake lights will come on, if it's wired correctly.
     
  14. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,075

    phat rat
    Member

    Use one like this. It mounts on the backside of the pedal, toward the driver. It's GM from 1953 to 91 and readily available most anywhere.*****on out lights are on. These last forever
     

    Attached Files:

    cobalt333, tb33anda3rd and RICH B like this.
  15. vintage6t
    Joined: Jul 30, 2007
    Posts: 421

    vintage6t
    Member
    from CT

    +1 on using this switch. The in-line pressure switches are prone to leaking after a while.

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  16. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    well that answered a question...I was about to ask if ....
    could i just screw this one into one of the capped master brake booster ports on the other side? or no? they have them on both sides so you can run brake lines off of either side
     

    Attached Files:

    • BB.jpg
      BB.jpg
      File size:
      67.5 KB
      Views:
      126
  17. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 32,442

    The37Kid
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just about now the conflicting wiring advice will start. Bob
     
  18. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,577

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    yes, you will need an adapter.
     
  19. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    because that wont screw in it? is it a different size than the port? so if I did this I would have to get a brass fitting with a male and a female end the male to the brake booster port and the female for this switch to screw into? or is it something else?
     
  20. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,577

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    yes the master should have threads and a seat for a steel line fitting, the brake switch has 1/8 pipe threads. if you take the plug with you to the part store they will get you the right fitting.
     
  21. RICH B
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 5,920

    RICH B
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Doubt that there is a fitting that would go directly from whatever inverted flare size the master has to 1/8" female NPT , and if you end up stacking up fittings to make it fit, it will likely be place to trap air.
    GM electric switch would be easy; but if you prefer the hyd switch, plumb it in downstream somewhere.
     
  22. rfraze
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,009

    rfraze
    Member

    Look at Danchuk catalogue for 57 Chev*****on type switch which mounts against the back of brake pedal arm. It turns on when pedal moves away from switch allowing*****on to come out.
     
    cobalt333 likes this.
  23. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,075

    phat rat
    Member

    that's in #14
     
    cobalt333 likes this.
  24. rfraze
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,009

    rfraze
    Member

    Missed that one. He might not know about the Danchuk catalogue.
     
  25. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    i had a 55 chev sport coupe in high school :) i know them
     
  26. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,670

    clem
    Member

    Install this and be prepared to replace it on a regular basis........
    After 11 years of replacing mine every 1000 km approximately, I am now changing to the one in the next post down.
    Personally I would just adjust the one that you have done.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
  27. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,670

    clem
    Member

    Install one like this and you will only do it once....
    Do a search on here and see the general consensus.
     
    cobalt333 likes this.
  28. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

    done deal i ordered the*****on type that mounts in front of the pedal...thanks
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  29. tb33anda3rd
    Joined: Oct 8, 2010
    Posts: 17,577

    tb33anda3rd
    Member

    by "in front" you mean, on the side closest to the driver seat.
     
  30. cobalt333
    Joined: Jan 9, 2013
    Posts: 582

    cobalt333
    Member

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.