1935-1936 Ford pickup tech for the masses

My info may not be super accurate. It's just a general knowledge that I have picked up over the years. I am always asking the restorer guys. They don't like to share their info too much with the hoodlums, but they know their stuff. I like the thread format, that way if I get new information I can correct any misguided info I may have provided. I am open for any productive criticism.

 

Checked out my early 35 cab and it has 2 braces in the roof. It is a big truck cab and also has the removable window garnishes. If I remember I'll try to take a picture and post it.

 

A pic of the roof in my early 35 cab.

 

Wow, I have never seen that. That would make it easier to hang a headliner.

 

Yep, that is exactly what the cab of my 36 looks like.

 

So it's not a year specific thing. My 35 and 36 have a single bar in the center.

 

Built in a different branch maybe?

 

Also, the corner brace on my cab is a touch lower and has a upper tab not found on the red roof cab.


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The corner brace on the red cab is one piece from door to door. The green cab has two separate tabs. One coming off the corner brace and one over the rear window.


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I wonder if they farmed out some of the production?

 

The 35 ford frame bracket for the radiator was shorter while the 36 was longer with two holes so the radiator could be moved out further because of the deeper radiator shell.
First hole would work for 35 shell and second for 36 shell.
35-40 passenger and 35-41 pickup frames were the same except for some difference in mounting points brackets. easily adapted.

 

Front hole for 36 and rear hole for 35.

 

Love those trailers!!! Your car is a beauty as well. You know of anyone around grass valley who works on flat heads?

 

Do you know if a 1935 ford truck front end fit a 1937 truck

 

35-36-37 Front fenders are all the same. 37 Hood is 37 only.
The Wizzard

 

37 Grille is also different. I am not sure about the cowl area right in front of the windshield (due to the split windsield). Also, I believe the 37 inner fenders are a little different due to the difference in grille.

 

Only diff. on the front fenders is the bumper bracket openings... '36 and '37 had slot. 35/36 had hole...

Inner fenders on '37 have an extra triangle shape on leading edge to make up for the hood side shape difference..

 

So, I had some guys asking about the differences between big truck fenders and pickup fenders. I had a set of inner fender braces for each on the bench this weekend, so I snapped a few pics.



I think you could make a set of big truck fender braces work in a pickup if you were creative.

 

Hey guys, I hope this is the right thread for this question. I was recently convinced to resuscitate a '36 Ford pickup for a friend who has owned the truck since college. He turned 86 in November! The proposed "tune up, tires and a seat cover" has turned into a total frame off. I promise I will take time to do a build thread once I get the body out to paint.
I need help identifying the original application for the spring perch bolt I destroyed yesterday trying to get the bones off the front axel beam. The owner seems sure the beam is the original '36 that he put juice brakes on in the early 50's. Thanks to the HAMB I think I've identified the spindle as 42-48 and am doing a disc brake upgrade on those. This is my first early V8 Ford project ever, I'm a GM guy. He wants the beam and bones powder coated with the frame I'm repairing so I knocked everything apart easily yesterday until I got to the right side spring perch bolt. After 2 hours of heating and beating, and 3 sacrificial nuts the bolt threads were ruined so I cut the damn thing off thinking it was one of the '36 bolts I had seen in the Drake catalog. No such luck. Can anyone tell me what this started life as, or better yet, tell me you have one you would sell me? It has obviously been shortened to just the tapered hole for the shock attachment, which were converted from knee action to tube. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Nice project Fan Attic - That part number says its a 35-36 passenger / commercial (pickup) front perch bolt. Looks like they just cut the mech brake mount off of the top. It appears that you can buy one new for about 80 bux. Probably less if you look a little harder than I just did..... http://www.aaaparts.cwmax.com/fordsuspension.htm. And yep, those are 42 - 48 spindles (square back).

Presuming the shock setup worked, a new that would be the easy way to go.

 

Thank you sir, I didn't know where to look for that part number interchange. I guess I'm not in as bad a shape as I feared.

 

Good deal. I actually thought you were going to have to find an old original one. I didn't know that anybody was repopping them in original form with the eyes on top.

 

Hello again gentlemen, my owner decided he had enough trouble with his hot rod being 6 volt in the past that he has asked to convert it to 12 volt. I got the battery box adjusted for the larger battery (group 34) before powder coating, and started sorting out what he had done in college in the 50's to the electrical system. It seems he installed a two brush '39 standard generator with pulley mounted fan and external voltage regulator so does anyone know for certain, or suspect strongly that the field windings in this genny interchange with the 12 volt 1960's vintage units Ford used? The truck will only have the stock gages and lights for a current load, and I plan to borrow the Fairchild LM7806 IVR solution for the fuel gage.
Also, he would like to keep the original look on everything so I talked to Mac VanPelt in Ohio about rebuilding the stock 1936 ignition coil for 12 volt negative ground after reading many posts here of dissatisfying solid state conversions. If appearance is primary, would the consensus be that rebuilding the stock coil is a reasonable course of action?

 

Yes, Fan, you can use the 12-volt field coils in the original '39 generator. Or you can just use the 50's-60's generator housing as well since they are the same, and then you don't need to disassemble them as usually they are very tough to remove. Slap the '39 front casting, armature, and rear cover on the late 50's housing. And hopefully you know that Fords are different than GM when it's time to polarize that generator. Do a search or read up in an old Motors Manual.

 

Good stuff Alchemy.

 

I knew you guys had the answer, thank you very much Alchemy! And I've got several early Motors Manuals so I'll be sure to read up on polarizing once I get a compatible VR installed and get the old girl spinning again.
Any opinions on rebuilding the ignition coil versus installing a conventional cylindrical coil and adapter? As I mentioned, the owner would prefer the original appearance if there is no compromise in reliability. At 86 he says he "ain't going to push it if it quits on him".

 

Been a bit since I have been on Fordbarn,but look for Skip Haney in Florida...nothing but positive revues.

 

Thanks for the lead Budget, I just talked to Skip and he sounds like the guy to do the work.
Another loose end I need to tie up is the column switch as the key hasn't been seen in decades. I couldn't find anything about disassembly in this thread but Bruce did a nice job explaining in another thread here http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/36-ford-column.189860/#post-2046414. Has anyone tried to drill and tap the tumbler retainer pin with say a [HASHTAG]#6x32[/HASHTAG] and use a slide hammer on a screw head to pull the pin without destroying it, or are replacement pins readily available?

 

Sorry for wasting band width on a stupid question. If I had looked it would have been obvious the "pin" is a lead plug hammered into a pair of aligned holes in the column and tumbler plug, just in case someone out there is as puzzled as I was.
My next puzzle is what a stock lower support for the original seat back is supposed to look like? Here are pictures of what friends have provided as potential candidates but none have seen what they believe to be an "original" unmolested example. Anyone have a picture?

 

Hello again. I got my column lock tumbler plug down to my favorite locksmith and he reports the pin return spring is broken or has lost tension and he can't get it apart or make it work. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or repair for the column lock tumbler assembly is still available today, preferably with a key?