Technical Hey SBC Guys, Would you run this?

2 - needs help.
I'll refer to my earlier post-

So that actually blows #1 all to shit as well doesn't it? You'll be dropping cash at a machine shop

 

IF you decide to attempt assembly without boring, here's some insight as to the condition of what you have to work with.

First, check your bores for taper. (in most general repair shops, .008" taper was 'tolerable'!)
I draw the line at .006".

1.) Take a ring, place it in the cyl. just below the ring ridge.
2.) Measure the end gap with a feeler gauge. Write it down. (you'll be doing all eight)
3.) Take a 'clean' piston (no rings on it) and push the ring squarely down the cylinder to the bottom of its stroke (2.75" is fine: it's the 'top ring')
4.) Measure the end gap in this position. Subtract the difference in thousandths of an inch, and divide by 3. (3.1416; 3 is close enough.) This value will tell you the difference in bore diameter ('TAPER')
'To bore or not to bore'.

 

Looks like Chevrolet had't learned anything from the 265's issues with valve-to-piston interference by 57', as they continued with the flat top, no valve relief pistons on lower HP engines. This comes from ChevyTalk.Org members. Looks like your engine was one of them that never got warranty work, or a major overhaul.
I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

In a way, you're absolutely right! I accept that I will have to pay a shop to machine the block/heads. But, in a way, I'm right,too! I will be doing all the assembly. This is where I will be learning/teaching myself.

Thanks for your insight and brutal honesty! EXACTLY what I need going into this project...realistic expectations!!!

 

Hadn't ever thought about going that route to get measurements, but it makes perfect sense!! I LOVE learning new things!!!

 

That does appear to be the case, with one possible exception...the main caps have indicator marks on them ( cap 1 has one center punch mark, number 2 has 2, etc. and the rods/caps have numerals stamped on them indicating cylinder placement. I don't think Chevy made the marks.... Kinda odd...

 

There are some important things to check on pistons before considering them for re-use.
- Maximum ring groove side clearance something like 0.006" with new rings.
- Piston pin to pin bore clearance and condition.
- Avoiding damage when cleaning the ring grooves
- Freedom from cracks
- Proper skirt condition and profile

It Used to be commercially feasible to hone the pin bores and rods for oversized pins ( available in 0.0015, 0.003, and 0.005" oversize !! ) and machine the ring grooves for spacers.
Them days are gone, unless you work in a shop that can do it and have clearance from the boss for "government jobs."

I think "standard" pistons are often kind of big, permitting/requiring honing the cylinders an extra thousandth or 2, which can be mighty useful.

If thorough and honets block and crank measurements justify it, less than 400 US bux can go pretty far.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=280

 

Alright, so there's some realistic expectations.

Call your local shop and get some ala cart prices.

Introducing new components into the rotating assembly will change the balance. Precise Weighing of old parts vs new parts will tell you how much. Since your 283 will like to rev up you want a nice balance.

Call your local shop and see what that balance job costs you.

Make some measurements and see if an over bore is needed. If so ,,,

See what an over bore and hone costs you.

The Pistons in kits are "rebuilder" type and have already made a pre determined move in the compression height to compensate for the fact that your block was decked 0.01. If it's decked- awesome. If not your piston is 0.01 farther in the hole, not good for many reasons so get it decked.

See what that costs.

You'll likely want the whole block dressed as well and the caps line honed while its there.

See what that costs

It would be great to have the shop mount the Pistons and rebuild your rods.

See what that costs.

Crank polished or cut.

See what that cost.

Valve job will likely be 200ish plus parts.

So math involved.
350.00 for master kit
Machine shop costs
Cost of Heads
Figure you'll have sealers and assembly lube and other snalls that just never ends.
Total that against 1,500- 1800 for a crate engine with more cubic inches. It's going to be almost a no brainier for anyone who's not already well versed.

The question is ,,, how can you get well versed if you don't start. id say go for it but get a good budget in place and weigh the cost benefits so you aren't too surprised.

 

All great advice and exactly where I'm trying to get to. If you don't mind, I'd like to exchange PMs as I run up on a road block, just to check my sanity!

Again, thanks for bearing with me and my notions!!