Technical what's the problem here?

There's that nasty electrical gremlin too.
Lol

 

Mine look like that as well except they start on fire as soon as I look at them

 

That thing he's holding is the tool the gremlins use to let the smoke out of your wiring.

 

Sounds like your ballast resistor is open, I've seen it before.. jumper the ballast resistor, it won't hurt the points to run it like that for a little while. At least that will eliminate one of the potential problems.. Joe

 

HEY! Wait a minute... Look at the OP's wiring diagram again. The fuel pump wired in to the accessory terminal? If that's his only fuel pump, that ain't going to work well, is it?

 

It worked fine from the ACC terminal. Key can be in the START, RUN, or ACC position and it operates.
If not the ACC, where should it be fed from?

And, in case anyone missed it, the red wire was removed, the engine starts and runs.
See video from post 25

 

I just figured that there wouldn't be any power at the accessory terminal with the switch in the "RUN" position. Are you running an electric pump only or do you have a mechanical pump as well?

 

Should be off of the ignition pole.
Kinda sucks if you want to flip on just the accessories like a radio and your fuel pump runs. There's no radio on the test stand. The fuel pump will work fine as long as it gets power, where it gets power makes no difference to the pump- but it might make a difference to you.

Why not use the relay? Is it just for the run stand - I can kinda see skipping past it for the stand but not in the car.

 

There's full power to acc post in run.
In acc position there's no power to ign post.

 

With the key on check the voltage at the battery side of the coil it should be 12v or around 6v depending on if the points are open or not. If you have voltage I would try a new condenser.

 

I had a new switch did the same thing. Threw the switch away and got another

 

Ah Haa! Once again, it appears that I've made a faulty assumption. I was probably looking at a gremlin infested schematic of an ignition switch.

 

There exist more than one 12 volt coil. Without describing the specs on every coil out there, just connect your coil to your ballast resistor and connect the other side of your ballast resistor to a 12 volt source. Use a good jumper to connect the coil "minus" to one side of an amp meter, and the other leg of the amp meter to a clean ground. With power on, the amps should be between 2 1\2 and 4 amps. Less than 2 1\2 amps will be underperforming. More than 4 amps will burn the points quickly. E = IR or swapped around R=E/I. Or in English: Ohms equals Volts divided by Amps.
Buy a coil that measures around 2 to 2 1/2 ohms., and hook a condensor (about .28 microfarad) to the points with the condensor case grounded. It all should run. Do check that your ignition switch has power going to the coil wire when the key is in "ignition position. When in start position, obviously power should bypass the ballast resistor and go directly to the coil. Reason? Automotive coils are really 9 volts, which is about what the battery has when the huge amp load is flowing to the starter motor. After the engine starts, the battery has its 12.6 volts again plus a couple more volts from the alternator. So the coil gets full (9 volts) while cranking, and gets a reduced (resistord) 9 - 10 volts when the engine is running.