Projects 1957 Hillman Husky 392 hemi build thread

Pipe threads are usually tapered, which is why the plugs hardly ever sit flush.

 

Thanks DD. The pedals do look like an Anglia Grill!



My 38 Hillman grill is close but a little different shape. Not quite the same at the top.

 

Noticed that on my intake manifold too. The tapered plugs always sit high.

Was a little nervous because I saw several hemi pictures where that plug was sunk in there. Just happy it worked itself out now I'm on to another problem.....the brakes.

 

Just spent the last coupla hrs going through this thread.............. damn nice work..............even if it has valve covers!!! Great Job.................

 

Thanks Carl. Hopefully somewhere along the line I've helped others like they have helped me. Lots to learn on the HAMB.

 

I hope you're keeping the crank handle to start the hemi if the battery goes flat . Or just to mess with people's minds.

 

Still have it. I'd put it in at the shows but people would trip on it or I'd forget and leave it in there.


This was from a couple years ago. It lines up.

 

Ever see a pipe-thread go-no thread gauge? They usually have a milled flat on them that shows the proper depth for tapping.

 

Talking to the guys that sold me the electric brakes I decided to get their latest greatest version. They tell me it's much quieter than the older version I have. Seems like a no brainer since they are basically letting me do an exchange. I wanted to re do some of the brake lines anyway so this will be a good excuse to do it.

This is the old pump. Had to make a special adapter for the accumulator. Not sure why we needed to do this. I think since it mounted sideways on the pump it would have hit the mounting plate. These pumps are a little louder than I'd like. Louder than a Holley fuel pump. That was a a big reason I went to an in tank fuel pump.






You can just barely see the mounting plate we fabricated to mount the pump. The plate sits on rubber bushings but even with this it was a bit too loud. Hopefully I can get the pump and mounting plate off with the exhaust in place. Don't want to have to remove it.

Design looks a little different but they tell me the ports are in "similar" locations. I think that means I should plan on redoing some brake lines.


picture is upside down but I like that the accumulator faces down and not to the side like the previous version did.


Red cap is where the line from the reservoir attaches.


We have the option of locating the accumulator inline if we need to.

 

Put the new brake assist in yesterday. The new pump is quieter. I like it. Sees to work too so on to the net project.




The new pump mounted a little different so had to modify the mounting bracket and main mount. We put a layer of Dynamat on back to dampen a little more noise. The pump bracket mounts to the pump with rubber bushings and then the main plate also has rubber bushings to mount to the body. I don't think I'll be able to hear the pump above the engine noise. From my initial tests once the brakes reach pressure the pump comes on every 4-5 brake applications and then runs about 3-4 seconds to recharge.

We're within a few inches of the exhaust but it's after the mufflers so hopefully won't be too hot. If it is I'll build a heat shield

 

Replaced front shocks this weekend too. The Heidts shocks were leaking so I replaced them with QA1 shocks and springs. I took some measurements on the old 700 lbs springs. They were 8 1/4" long and compressed to 6" when loaded. QA says that should call for 700 lbs springs. I replaced those with some from QA1 too.

I also did a quickie alignment with a tape measure to get the wheels pointed in somewhat the same direction. Replaced the rack boots too as the pair that came on the fatman rack didn't last long.

 

Got the air cleaner back from the powder coater. Put a coat of clear on it for a little more shine and it looks really nice. I may try to change it out for one from a Golden Commando if I can find one. I think the only thing left in here is the pcv valve and a tune-up.

 

I'm trying to get the car ready for alignment and coilover tuning so it needs to be as close to original weight as possible. I put the seats in so it's near it's final weight except for carpet and door panels.

I'll get it aligned and drive it for a while to track down any issues that pop up. Then I'll take the seats out and work on the carpeting.

Seats are a good color match to the door panel. Trying to decide if I go with a red or black carpet.

 

Im in love ..drooool

 

...you didn't ask but I 'll vote for black carpet...less noticeable color fade from UV...

.

 

I think I am leaning towards a black loop. Car would have originally had a black mat and I want to stay close to stock colors (says the guy that put in a 392)

 

Go with black, your back will thank you when you have bend around inside the tiny cabin to vacuum it. Red you would need to do it a lot more.

 

Seems like a black carpet shows more than a red carpet would......just like a black paint job shows dust or dirt.

Used to work with a guy that had a 1970 VW truck. It had a rubber mat so when it got dirty he would just open both doors and hose the inside out.

 

So I made a list of big and small projects that the car needs. I'm going to try and cross off one item a day so it feels like progress is being made. Yesterday I cleaned up the door sill aluminum plates. Took about an hour so at least I accomplished something.

Today I got the PCV valve set-up back from the machinist. It was no small feat but the oil fill cap was modified to take a grommet and PCV valve. It has a baffle on the bottom too so it won't suck up too much oil. The new oil feed is now on the front of the valley cover.




The baffle on the bottom is pressed it. Looks like it's all one piece but it's not.









It was not easy adding oil back here. Need to find a hose for this and then it's done.



Here is the intake for the PCV system. It pulls filtered air from inside the air cleaner. This is a much easier spot to add oil too.

 

Had a good day on Saturday. Fired up the car an put it in gear for the first time. Clutch felt good so I let it out and there was a loud chirp. Stalled it as the clutch was really close to the floor. Fired it up again and took a few laps around the neighborhood. I think I put about a mile on it so it was a good start. Didn't want to do too much as the tie rods aren't tightened down. Clutch felt good and it shifted like it should. Brakes worked too so that was a plus.

Hope to get it aligned in the net week or so and then can take it for a real drive.

I know the posi works as it left two of these on the driveway. Was a little scary as the rpm's were up a bit and I was pointing at the neighbors fence.

 

Great News! Congrats!

 

Thanks. Was a big day in the Husky world.

 

I'm just GIDDY for you!
Easy does it though, I wouldn't want something to happen, I haven't taken my "virtual" ride yet.

 

I've searched the web and found little info on how to hook up the Jag emergency brakes so thought I'd post what I've found.


Some of the earlier cars take this kind of set-up. I'm glad mine isn't one of them.



This is how the rear end for my car started. This was just before I brought it down to Curt Hamilton. If you look closely you can see each ebrake lever has a little block on the end for the cable.

When it came back it only had one of the blocks. The driver side arm would take a clevis....if the cable were coming from the passenger side.


This isn't my car but you can see the cable coming from the passenger side. You can also see the springs that keep the ebrake pads from riding the discs.



This was the picture that tied it all together for me. I now have the springs and spring tabs. On my car the cable will come from the other side. I will need to change out the driver's side arm for one that has the block on the end. Curt is sending me a replacement. Will be a major pain to change as there is very little room to see or feel what you are doing.


This is the cable I'll probably end up using. I'll figure out the length needed and then send it down to Control Cables to have them swage an end on it.

 

Awesome to hear, bet that first drive was fun!

 

It was fun but nerve racking like all first drives are. Had one new smell.....I think the brakes. One of the reasons I wanted to drive it was to break the pads in just a tad so the car would roll a little easier. It worked. Rolled a little better and no more brake smell on the second drive around the neighborhood. There were a few rattles under the car so I went hunting for brake/fuel lines that might be rubbing or making noise. Found a few so put some rubber hose pieces around to quiet things down. Did the same on battery cables to make sure they don't rub and wear through and cause unwanted excitement. Also made sure my motor, tranny, driveshaft and other nuts and bolts were tight. I'm leaving most the suspension pieces loose for the alignment guy.

 

Still trying to cross at least one thing off the to-do list per day. Yesterday I didn't have much time but was able to work on the dome light.

Dome light was rebuilt by Larry. Saved me a bunch of time and headaches. Original fiber board that held the light was toast.




Had been putting this one off for a while since I was scared to cut a hole in the headliner. Found a new lens on eBay.



It works! These aren't connected to the door so it only comes on when you flick the switch on the back. One more task of the to-do list.

 

Dropped the Husky off this morning to get aligned and ride height dialed in. Hopefully will be able to drive it in a few days.

 

Was able to go for a real test drive the other day. Went pretty good. I think I'm going to raise the rear end up about an inch from where the alignment guys left it.

Had a squeak in the steering column so I've got it apart so I can replace the bearing balls.

I also need to put some weatherstripping on the doors and rear hatch. There were making lots of noise.

 

Congratulations!
Wow, if a squeak, and a little weatherstripping is all that is involved with your shake down run you are doing great!
Keep us updated when you put some miles on her.