Customs 700R4 lockup kits

Do I have this right? These kits work on different principles.

1. The simplest and cheapest is a toggle switch, to toggle the lock-up on and off. Driver should manually toggle off when stopping.
2. Next is the kit where a shift into 4th gear automatically and immediately engages the lock-up torque converter--one goes immediately from 3rd without lockup into 4th with lockup. Application of the brake pedal disengages. Or, the whole system can be manually toggled off. Monster Transmissions external lockup kit is this. And Bowtie Overdrives.
3. Same as 2 except that the lockup engages 8 seconds after the shift into 4th. Bowler Performance offers this model.
4. These kits are sensitive to vacuum in the intake manifold. So, if in 4th gear and cruising, lockup is engaged. If the throttle is pushed, for example to climb a hill, the pressure drops and the lockup disengages. Applying the brake pedal disengages it. And, it can be manually toggled off. I think that TCI and Painless sell this one. Monster Transmission's internal kit works this way.
5. The B & M Transmissions kit works entirely on the basis of vehicle speed, with vacuum being irrelevant.
6. Transgo makes a kit that works entirely on internal hydraulics. No wiring. Might only work on 1983 to 1987 transmissions (which should work for me). Not exactly sure how it works, but there is some suggestion on the internet that it will lock up in 3rd and 4th, and unlock with a throttle application.

Mine is a carbed engine. No electronics. I'm not really interested in piecing my own system together using Radio Shack parts. Want a durable kit from a reputable manufacturer. And, not really interested in the immediate lockup in 4th gear model. Nor do I want to be frequently toggling on or off--I want to mostly set it and forget it, with only an occasional toggle.

I'm putting this 700R4 behind a 1968 Pontiac 350 V8 (yes, I have an adapter plate). It is to power a 1963 International Metro Mite which is a small step van, slightly smaller than a half ton pickup but with a big flat front that needs to be pushed through the wind. Might want to tow a boat behind sometimes.

I'd appreciate input from those with experience on the topic. If I've missed anything, please let me know. While I've seen much discussion on the topic, no one has explained this very clearly.

Thanks, John.

 

Durable and 700r4 do not belong in the same sentence! 4l60e,4l80e,yes. 700rjunk no way.

 

You do realize what the 4L60E is based on, don't you? On this forum, most folks would rather wire up a 700R4 than use a damned computer to control the 4L60E.
Calling the 700R4 junk is a pretty bold statement.

 

The shop that rebuilt mine added a line from the 4th gear engage circuit to the lockup circuit so they engage at the same time without any electrical circuit at all. Said it would work fine and last a long time.

Gary

 

I have the TCI kit in my daily driver V8, 700R4 truck. It's been in there for more years than I can remember. I drive it hard, and I've never had a problem with the kit, or the tranny. The tranny was used when I put it in and it hasn't been touched since.

 

When a 6.2 diesel that makes less than 200 horse can kill a transmission,said transmission is junk. Sorry if that hurts your feelings.

 

Ive used this kit twice, works as described, no issues, easy to install.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/tci-376600

 

That's the kit I used. Bought it from Summit too.

 

I have mine on a simple toggle switch. Only time you need to lock up the converter is when you are on the highway or long road trip. Lock it then unlock it when city driving. No problems with lots of miles.

Jim

 

Bowtie Overdrive

 

I have a 9.5" 4000 stall FTI with a toggle on mine, like alumslot says, the only time I lock it is on the highway...

 

www.phoenixtrans.com ------ good products, including the carb kick down extension that is needed for TV cable to operate properly, tech info - out of Weatherford, TX

 

I have the Bowler on my 700R4, my only complaint is when cruising into a town, the lock-up will stay engaged until you hit the brake pedal or the trans shifts down. So the engine sometimes drops to say 1200 rpms, well the engine has to pull from there, it doesn't seem to hurt anything except it pulls slower with the low rpms.

 

Sorry, but 'strike two' . Diesel engines typically have misleading low hp ratings but develop higher torque at lower rpms than similar displacement gas engines. You can make 300 hp with a chain saw engine if you get enough rpm from it, but not much torque. Torque, more than horsepower, does the work. Since you have, or had, a 6.2 diesel, I'm thinking truck, and maybe 4x4.

Either way, not an ideal environment for a medium duty automatic, I'll grant you that. But by the same token, it isn't a fair basis to call the transmission 'junk'. They work reliably for lots of miles in appropriate installations and use.

Ray

 

BTOd in mine. Auto locks in 4th - love it! Ran another vehicle without any lock-up and was very happy with that too.

I have their stage 2 trans, which they warranty at 450hp / 500lb.

I use my shifter as the "switch". In-town driving, I just place the shifter in 3rd. It's only on the freeway on-ramps that I slip it into 4th. That may sound goofy to some, but I rather enjoy driving like that.

 

There were actually two versions of the 700R4. An early that was built from 83-86, and then GM made some much needed upgrades in 1987 and the technical name of it was actually changed to 4L60. The earlier ones had some reliability problems but the ones built from 87 and up were a pretty decent unit running 150K plus miles without any troubles...

 

give bob or Jeremy a call at rebel wire, ive used a few of them ,work great. good dudes. members on the hamb.
http://rebelwire.com/rebel-wire-products.php?cat=Accessory Kits

 

First, theres a lot of threads on this topic, use search. But, run an internal switch[on valve body in pan] to lock up converter. It takes a 12 volt wire to the left side of trans to feed it. Splice in an on/off toggle switch. Now you can run it in fourth gear without lock up. Get up to speed like on highway, and hit switch. I've run my 32 like this for years, works great. Best of both worlds. And, by the way, if you build a 700 with just a few aftermarket parts, it will easily take 500 hp.

 

Yep, simple toggle switch.
BUT...do not forget to turn it off before getting off the freeway.
Safest thing to do is wire a "second" switch to the brake pedal along with the manual switch. This is a great safety item for those "oh shit" freeway stops also..!

All you have to do is forget once, maybe twice. You'll be putting a new pump together..!

Mike

 

That was the first revision of the 700R4, I think in '86 or so, GM did some upgrades to it.
I've about 130K on my '89 IROC.

 

Yeah,but I didn't put that tranny in,gm did,so maybe if they didn't have their heads up their asses they would have built a proper trans for the appropriate installation and use! But whatever,cause I'll never be caught dead in generic motors products again! And as for torque,a 6.2 diesel had 240 lbs/ft not a real torque monster. Or maybe that is in Chevy land?

 

Thats a good idea. I have a 700R4 in my truck, 200r4(yea, I know, I know, its 2004r bla, bla, f*cking bla) in my chevy II, I HATE the ratio spread in the 700, would take a 200 over the 700 ANY DAY OF THE WEEK. If you dont give a shit about performance, it probably doesnt make much difference.

 

Subscribing so that I can find the info later. Sounds like you did your homework, but what exactly was your question?

 

Bader2, I guess we've all had bad luck with something that works for most everyone else.

 

My guess is TV cable issues. I run a 1990 700R4 behind a 400+ hp 355, not much done to it so far, nine disc 3/4 pack, big servo, good band and forward clutches, .422 reverse boost valve and up-graded accumulator.
I dont like the ratio spread, but its been pretty reliable, and I drive the SHIT out of it, regular 6800 rpm manual upshifts, pretty frequent downshift followed by WOT, and a bunch of 12 flat passes at the track @ 3400lbs, it hasn't given me a lick of trouble.
Also, I noticed the OP was planning to pull a boat trailer with it. The deep first gear might actually be a plus in that application.

 

I've got over 70K on my 700R behind a 425/454 and I don't drive it easy.

 

Not installed yet but will go behind 348 W motor. Purchased 700r4 from Phoenix in Weatherford Along with a Compushift electronic torque converter lockup kit. The TV cable has to be set correctly and Phoenix has a very good procedure for setting such on their website. The TV cable will determine proper shifting and from all i have read, if set improperly will fry a 700 in short order. The Compushift only controls torque converter lock up. For a street application you typically set compushift one time then leave it be.........Lots of other lock up controls on the market and most all work well. You have to understand the purpose and settings of the TV first though.............

 

Straight up, I am not in love with the 700R4, but with a few basic upgrades, they are totally strong enough to about 500hp and mid 11's which is WAY more that most HAMBers are going to subject them to. Past that point, its 200R4 territory, with a shitload of aftermarket ($$$) mods.

 

sorry checked my binder full of notes, my trans is built from an '88 core. My bad.

 

So, after reading all of this, I need both a lockup kit for the inside and a TV cable on the out side of a 700R?. Trying to decide weather to use a 350 Turbo or a 700R in my 55 chevy with a GM crate 350 ? I have both.
Thanks