Projects 63 Falcon Gasser (South East Gassers)

If you need more space, i guess i will be a go0d friend and take a couple of those cars off your hands

 

Let's hope you were standing on the front tire when you took this shot.

 

Nope, floating cause my shop is finally usable, well kinda

 

You can name your car "Itchy" , that's what I feel looking at all that insulation.

 

You see where I'm from right?! LOL

 

So, I changed my mind on running the tube front axle. I like the looks of the i beam better, i weighed them and the i beam will be lighter once i'm done shaving the fat off of it, and most of all i have figured out the early mustang discs will fit my spindles

Got one hole in the axle and Quains mill started making some funny noises then something broke. Luckily it was just the 6o year old belt in the top of the mill, believe it or not a golf cart drive belt will do the trick to get it back up and going.

Drilling a front axle takes entirely too much time if anyone was wondering. by the time you lay out the holes, get the mill centered on the hole, drill 1/4,1/2,3/4, and 1 inch holes and repeat that process 20 times you have managed to tie up an entire afternoon! But a drilled I beam just looks so sexy under the front of a gasser

 

and sexy is what we are after right?!! Cause if its not, I'll have to start over!!

 

Sat down tonight and did a little figuring. Looks like 225lb shouldn't be too hard to get off of the car by spring, it's got me pretty excited!

 

That's 2-10ths in the 1/4 .... fresh pair of Slicks .... you'll be Rock-n-roll'n

 

Which mustang disks are you gonna use? I am still putting together ideas for weight savings for my build and have been really trying to figure out the most money conscious way to weight savings for the front brakes. I was even considering /coughdrumbrakes for a minute lol Ps, axle looks great

 

Glad you're staying with the I-Beam. We always used a hole saw. Just drill all the pilot holes first - but that is time consuming still.

 

I am going to run aerospace 2 piston discs. I think they will look way more period than the wilwoods once i paint them up to look like they are cast. They are also 2 pounds lighter than wilwoods according to my research

 

Yeah, i'm praying for some good times come spring!

That's the method i would have used too, but i already had the axle at Quain's so i just used the mill

 

Thank you so much,, hit you up with a PM on FB .

 

I beam is badasss!!,!

 

Finally got around to finishing up milling my axle

drilled the holes as well as machine off excess material around the spring perches

 

Also got my front brakes in and installed finally. Ordered aerospace brakes for a 65 mustang and adapted them to my unknown spindles. However i did check before i ordered them and knew that the bearing surfaces would work out fine between my spindles and the mustang

Made a nylon bushing in the lathe the had the outside diameter of the hole in the caliper bracket and the inside diameter of the spindle in order to center everything up

I then put the spindle in the mill and drilled my new hole locations

 

YOu can see how far off the holes were from the factory ones. I still have to machine the back of the spindle down flat where each nut comes in to contact with it. I was able to use one existing hole

 

everything else was pretty much straight forward. Ended up shimming the caliper out just a little to center it up on the rotor

Finished product. I was able to shave about 47lb off of the front end of the car by removing the HEAVY front drums and machining the axle. The new front brakes weigh right at 27lb total, and im hoping to shave one more pound off of that by cutting the studs and bolts down

 

Looking good man. I like I beams better also. What are u shooting for weight wise? I have to do almost the same thing with my front brakes because it's a odd spindle also. My axle and spindle are off my brothers 32 chevy sedan. I already adapted the g body conversion kit to it but I am going to put wilwood drag brakes on it now to save the weight also.

 

I am hoping to be between 2350 and 2400 by spring

 

For the car? Or you and the car?

 

I'm figuring it should be right around 2400 with my 220lb ass sitting in it

 

Looking good Gabriel! What are your plans for the master cylinder and prop valve? With discs on all 4 corners will the valving need to change or anything?

 

Ill just see how they work in the road once i have the brakes on and go from there. I assume the master cyl should work fine, and if it needs a valve, then i will just stick one on the frame under the car

 

You will need a different master cylinder for 4 wheel disk, more brake fluid volume needed, and use a manual prop valve to dial in the big tire/ small tire relationship. Car has come a long way from the beginning of this thread. enjoyed the journey. Good luck.

 

Decided to flip the perches on the axle so it went under the springs. Looks better and I was able to loose 3 leaves a side and keep my ride height the same

 

Had to re-do my steering. Basically started over but it clears everything with room to spare unlike last season

 

Also I finally got a set of magnesium Americans! Took me a year to finds some, but I didn't break the bank

 

This gets us pretty much caught up. I have the rear leaves out of the car now, in the process of doing a coil spring conversion to shave a little weight. So far this winter after the coil conversion is finished I will have lost 188 lb off of the car. I'm looking for a smaller radiator that still fits the look as well as hoping to have the cash to go with race rear discs which will save 25lb if I go with Wilwood. All of this should put me around 225 lb lost over winter and a race weight of 2385 with me in the car