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Projects 23 T Bucket help.....

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NJ302PONY, Mar 4, 2016.

  1. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    Hello everyone. I recently picked up a T Bucket from my father. He took it as a trade on another car and does not know any details about the car. I want to build a traditional hot rod out of it but am not sure where to start. I have been reading and reading on these cars for a while but would like you fine folks to please take a look at the pics and help me identify things that may be not right with the car. The front suspension has zero bounce. I have never driven one before so I don't know...Is this normal to ride so harsh? I would like to finish it in the early to mid 60's style. Here are the pics.
    20160302_100831.jpg 20160302_100856.jpg 20160302_100911.jpg 20160302_100911.jpg 20160302_101007.jpg 20160302_100929.jpg
     
  2. Gee where do we start?

    Bounce is common in a Bucket T, short wheelbase coupled with stiff springs. You maybe could remove a leaf or two from the springs.

    Look at some of the T bucket threads. Let me see if I can't get you a link or two right quick.

    Here is todays blog about bucket Ts.
    http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/underrated.1011067/unread

    You may glean some ideas there.

    Here is a build thread:

    http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-belly-button-bucket-build-thread.1000590/

    Here is one that one of the fellas is redoing good thread so far:

    http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-bucket-of-ugly-a-de-uglifying-thread.824491/

    Hope this helps a little bit, by the way that rear suspension is pure '60s I am doing the same thing under my A coupe. You may consider taking a rattle can to those springs though they are kind of gaudy. LOL
     
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  3. Old-Soul
    Joined: Jun 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,794

    Old-Soul
    Member

    Lots of buckets around here as of late. Someday I'd like to do the same, buy a running car and beat the ugly right outta it haha.

    Lots of info on here, I'll link you to two threads. One is strictly a photos thread for inspiration and the other is what most consider to be the de-facto thread on building a proper T roadster.

    Welcome aboard.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...adster-tourings-official-photo-thread.505967/

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-bucket-of-ugly-a-de-uglifying-thread.824491/
     
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  4. Old-Soul
    Joined: Jun 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,794

    Old-Soul
    Member

    Dammit*******....
     
  5. Pretty fast for a one handed typist. I'm startin to get used to this everything done with my left hand these days. LOL


    Hey check out that first link. I think you'll like it. :)
     
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  6. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    Hm, you've got a Fad T there for sure. I'd have to take it to McDonald's at least once as it sits too ;)

    I'd lose those lantern lights on the back; you've got nice 39's on there already. Replace those square amber lights with something round.

    I would check to see if them there lever shocks are still shocking. They seem kinda out of place on a car with a coilover rear IMO, so maybe if they're not working, switch to tube shocks, or add some.

    Suicide steering makes me nervous, personally; I don't want a suicidal squirrel to pigeon toe my ride. Give your whole front end some serious thought.

    Drum brakes up front or even just covers for the discs up there would dress it more traditionally styled.

    I'd see if there are some more vintage styled valve covers that will work with whatever is going on under there and add a nice air cleaner to obscure that beast HEI.
     
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  7. Old-Soul
    Joined: Jun 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,794

    Old-Soul
    Member

    I don't even want to guess where your other hand is haha.

    I read it earlier, kind of interesting to know where that photo I'd nabbed was from.

    As for OP, if I were you and I were looking where to start on my T update/downdate, first thing I'd hit would be those wheels. Pop those off and sell 'em online, plenty of people with bad taste looking for some big**** wheels. Use the money you make off those to help fund some new rolling stock.

    Then I'd set out to repaint anything on there yellow a different color, or replace with chrome items. I hate yellow.

    Then those pipes would get replaced with manifolds or headers that keep the exhaust routed under the car. Sure they had pipes like that but I've always liked cleaner exhaust setups.

    I could keep going but I think if you pour over the provided threads, you'll see where your own tastes lead you.
     
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  8. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    Here is what I cant change quick enough...
    The wheels and tires - Kind of stuck on Torqs. Just need some research on proper sizing, backspace, etc.
    Anything yellow on the car. Need to find a proper color or just sandblast them natural. Suggestions?
    The interior - I'm kind of partial to white or black
    The windshield - leave it high or trim in down a few inches?
    The steering wheel and seat height. I know I can take the wood out from under and do some rewiring and get the seat nice and low. What do I even begin to do about lowering the steering wheel? I don't know how its made or from what parts. Does anyone have an idea so I can get something lower.
    The suspension has zero bounce. like none at all. Rides like a total rock. It doesn't even move if I stand on the front and push down on the car. Can someone zoom in on the pic and visually see if there is any obvious suspension problems.

    I truly appreciate any advice and help! I need to beat the ugly off the car!
     
  9. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    The paint that's on the yellow parts is a good base to paint on. Degrease, scuff, and clean them up before painting them with a rattle can. Enamel should go over anything, but if the paint that's on there now is lacquer, you can go that route too. If you plan to start over on all of it some day, I'd say a can or two of Chassis Black would do the trick.

    You can probably clean and re-dye the interior.

    I'd chop the windshield, but after settling the steering/seating changes.

    Take the pad off the seat and sit in it. See how you like that and if you can drive still.

    I don't see any steering linkages, so I'd imagine your steering shaft goes through the floor to a U-Joint that runs out to a Vega or Corvair box. You should can be cut down and re-assembled but unless you change the angle, you'll end up in your windshield's territory quick.

    I'd ditch that wood dash too, but that's my taste.
     
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  10. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    What does Suicide Steering mean? I'm not opposed to changing the front end and making it a better driver. Where would you begin?
     
  11. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 34,037

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    Congrats on your new ride - lots of potential. take some close up pics of front and rear springs, shocks, steering, etc and post here. front leaf springs look very short so, no movement. as told before, take one or two leafs out - except top and bottom. see if that makes a positive difference.no telling what rear springs rating is. put something down on top of bed to protect top of it. then stack bags of cement - one at a time - to see if that gives some movement. short wheelbase and basic lite weight will rarely give you a real smooth ride. but, you can make it better.
     
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  12. slowmotion
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 3,632

    slowmotion
    Member

    That's a good little bucket to start on. An afternoon with a few rattle cans alone will be a huge difference. Sounds like you're heading in the right direction. Wheels, suspension,*****can that fugly steering wheel. Get your seating/driving position right. The headers & upholstery are livable IMO. Dress the engine appropriately, you'll have neat little ride. Keep us updated.
     
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  13. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    NJ30pony,

    I'm Chip Quinn, and "The 'Bucket of Ugly" thread is mine. I did a lot of the same that you are needing to do, and that is take off mis matched and outdated (or too updated) stuff.

    First, I'd pull the lanterns off, the mirrors, and as many of the little trinkets as I could. That will do an amazing job of cleaning stuff up a bit.

    As far as wheels, you mentioned Torque Trusts - Good choice! Thing is though, that to many that means "D" spokes or TTIIs. Wrong for this car. Original straight spoke Torques are getting tough to find these days, but E.T. wheels makes their E.T. VI that is a very good substitute that can be bought from them. Halibrands are also a very nice way to go as well. Width wise, 8" or 8 1/2" on the back, and anything between 4 1/2"-6" on the front looks great. For tires, my preference is Towel City recap 8" slicks on the back, and a 155-15 on the front.

    Suspension wise, try taking the top two leaves out of the front spring and see what you get ride wise, I'll bet it'll be better.

    The best thing you can do, is to hit the swaps and collect a set of early sixties Car Craft and Rod and Custom magazines, and see what was popular on the cars at the time. Both of those mags, and to a lesser extent Popular Hot Rodding, covered T-Buckets monthly, as that is when they really were hot. DSC04203.JPG
     
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  14. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Oh, on the steering wheel, rather than cut down what you have, how about a common '60s deal... The stock "T" wheel. They were flipped "upside down" in comparison to what we are used to today, and would put that down at a better level for comfortable driving.
     
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  15. He is talking about the tie rod being in front of the axle, which is common on Ts believe it or not.

    Somethin that could be done with the steering that is not normally done these days and could wait a while would be to mount your column straight up and down like a T. It would involve moving your steering box but it is something to think about. if all you want to do is lower the wheel just shorten the column.

    Tell you we are about to enter loud season, I would keep thins minimal until fall at the very least.
     
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  16. RB35
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 963

    RB35
    Member

    The front spring should have the shackles at about 45 degrees. The pics look like it the shackles point straight down and the spring is pretty flat, which leaves little room for movement. The coil overs may be too harsh a rate. Speedway catalog has a little chart about types of cars and spring rates to use. If you jack the front or rear up by the frame so the axle hangs, do you get much down movement?
    Better pics of the areas in question would help, like a straight on shot up front, close up of shackles, rear shock extension.
    Car is cool and has potential though.
     
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  17. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    Chip, you are EXACTLY where I want to be. The Torqs with the straight spokes are a little hard to find. I'm going to be searching all over. I noticed the Rocket wheels are fairly cheap. Almost a Radir look to it. Any opinion on these?

    I will go and get close ups of the front suspension so everyone can guide me accordingly.
     
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  18. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    I'd really check out and purchase the E.T.s, myself. The Radar style wheels aren't my bag though. If you are stuck on bias plys, think 8.20s on the back, and 5.60s on the front.
     
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  19. LongT
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 980

    LongT
    Member

    My front end does move pretty well over bumps and such. Doesn't really bounce, it has tube shocks. I took a leaf out of the spring. Seemed OK so I didn't remove anymore. Mine is not the most traditional but it has a short windshield. Here are couple of pics for reference.

    Before I changed to Torq Thrust on the rear:

    [​IMG]

    and after

    [​IMG]

    Bill
     
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  20. krgdowdall
    Joined: Apr 3, 2015
    Posts: 141

    krgdowdall
    Member
    from Alberta

    NJ302Pony:

    With a short wheelbase and a light weight, buckets tend to ride rough. The proper springs, shocks and tire combinations can make a considerable difference in the ride and handling. If you can drop the seating down, it can get you out of the wind, and trips will be more comfortable. My seating is only 4 inches off the floor.
    If you are over 6 feet tall you may not want to cut down the windshield. Steering can be shortened, to suit. From the photos the steering shaft may not have a U-joint or a coupler. The pitman arm and box looks like a Corvair but it is hard to tell. The steering arms (Chev spindles have removable arms) should be swapped side to side to improve the ackerman. This may require a longer tie rod.
    No problem with the tie rod in front of the axle, its been done a million times.
    From the photos, you don't appear to have "coil-overs", just a coil and shock setup. Tires and wheels create the biggest visual impact on a fender-less bucket but it is up to you and personal taste.
    The 38/39 tail lights didn't look good on a 38 or 39 Ford and lots of different tail lights better suit a T bucket. Just My personal taste .
     
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  21. Pensive Scribe
    Joined: Sep 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,098

    Pensive Scribe
    Member

    Tail lights are an important safety issue. I like the 39 teardrops like the rest, but they are very dim at the best of times. Might I suggest an upgrade to the L-E-D tear drops at the very least. It would be a shame to ruin that shapely rear end because of some in-attentive dope behind you. Not to mention the vulnerability of your backside to boot.

    Great start by the way. Those wheels have to go!
     
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  22. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    Just checked. The tear drops are LEDS. The lanterns are running brake lights, the drops are running lights and the squares are blinkers. I will scrap the lanterns and rewire everything to the drops and look out for replacements for the squares.

    Whats the opinion on chrome reverse wheels? Is that too much of a 50's rim?
     
  23. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    BLUDICE
    Member

    image.jpg Hey it's a good start - mine was a bigger mess when I got it. Front end - put shocks on it and pull a couple springs. Back end looks a little weird - if it was mine I would pull the coils and pads and install coil over shocks - that way you can adjust the height. If you get the supension worked out and with the right tires and air pressure T's don't ride too bad. Good luck - T's are a blast to drive.
     
  24. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,060

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Keep in mind that much of the advice you get on this or any other forum is worth exactly what you're paying for it , absolutely nothing !! Look a your car & change it to your taste , you can't please everyone , nor should you try to ..JMO
    dave
     
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  25. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Their is a lot to like on your bucket. It just needs some toning down. It sits nice, the color is nice just too much of it. The windshield lays back just enough and doesn't look bad the height it is. I'm not crazy about the rear springs but would be better painted black as would a lot of other suspension parts. Think you are on the right track and chrome steelies or just painted steelies would look good. Yes I am partial to the late '50s. Read and reread Chip's deuglifing thread. Pretty much what he did to his T is what is needed on yours. The grill and radiator on yours need to go down a few inches. Chip mounted his under the frame rails. And yes that makes a big difference in "the look" and is worth doing.
    Gary
     
  26. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,433

    Squablow
    Member

    Is there anything connecting the upper and lower bar of those front hairpins? I've looked from all angles and I can't see anything. I would think that would make them flex and be dangerous? And if they are homemade, I'd be curious to know what they were made of. If you introduce some spring travel to the car, those might bend and flex like crazy.

    Stylistically, I think you're already on the right track. Substitute wheels, less toppings and hold the mustard.

    Re-detail the motor, dye the interior white if that is your preference, the upholstery itself is already a nice pattern and in solid shape, and the red paint also is in good shape and a nice color. The car has a lot going for it and won't be hard to turn around. I like Torq-Thrusts, especially with redlines, but the painted steel wheels with baby moons on the blue one above is also very nice for an early 60's look, could be paired with black walls or thin white stripe tires to date it past 1962 if that was your wish, and is very affordable.

    Looking forward to seeing this come together.
     
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  27. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    Thanks for the words and inspiration everyone! You people are great motivators. Here are the suspension pics. The right hairpin seems bent. Does anyone know why they would of used 32 inch pins on the front? 20160305_130129.jpg 20160305_130134.jpg 20160305_130141.jpg 20160305_130159.jpg 20160305_130207.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  28. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    That looks like a homebuilt axle to me. If it were mine, I'd ditch it and put a dropped axle with a spring over setup to put the tie rod inboard. A fresh set of hairpins too since you've got a bent one. I thought fronts were usually about 27" which may improve handling.
     
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  29. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,516

    BLUDICE
    Member

    Looks like a Spirit chassis - body too - they got bought out several years ago - Speedway Motors I think. You best be getting a catalog from Speedway and start looking thru their TBucket suspension parts - I always had good luck with them. Find some suspension books too - T's are very sensitive on their front ends - you don't want to have death wobble - it*****s big time - ask me how I know - LOL!!
     
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  30. NJ302PONY
    Joined: Mar 3, 2016
    Posts: 22

    NJ302PONY

    I have been looking for the hairpins, the fronts are all 27 inches. Is it OK to run the 32 inches on the front?
     

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