Hello, I had planned to make my exhaust, or at least most of it, with lengths of 2" straight pipe and u bends. Planned to expand the ends and then weld it all together. I had no idea how ineffective the tailpipe expander is. It barely does anything to the pipe and I broke the tool. Is butt welding an option here? someone once told me it would break. Any feedback/help would be welcomed. Buying a prefab one or paying someone to do it is not an option. Thanks Drew
you could get a sleave that fit over the ends and weld it up, or I have had the exhaust shop expand pipes for me, but most of the time I just butt weld them.
Ok thanks. I could cut off 3/4 inch lengths and put it slit in them and use them as a collar I suppose. Hut butt welding is most appealing. There are no strength issues?
If you get the tube fit perfect you can fuse the 2 together without rod but it takes practice. Also try and get "J" bends instead of "U" bends that way one leg is much longer and it saves having to weld a straight section between 2 bends twice. 16ga is best
what do you mean by "get the tube fit perfectly?" Butt or expanded over one another? Good advice about the J
This is great info. Cause that tail pipe expander seems to be better used as a part weight. While we are on this topic, any tips for the "flare" that I need for my donuts where the downpipe meets the manifold? I have the flanges that slide over a flared pipe and a donut that goes on the beveled manifold and in the flare
Butt welding is fine but the cut must be square . When you cut the "U" or "J" bend ,set it on the bench drive a nail where the center of the radius falls . Then pull a string at the desired angle . Mark and cut. I also use a 2" long length of tube cut half and 2 hose clamps to help hold it in place when tacking it together
I type slow , to make the flare I use a 2.25 trailer ball and slowly work the pipe over . I also have used a hardwood tree limb shaped to do this . Because I also have a tailpipe expander paper weight.
buttwelding will do the job as its not a structural , just make sure you have enough hangers so the weight strain is taken off the welds ( the pipe is welded together and it holds for many years and there is no filler as its erw ) as for the flaring tool , the cheap ones will only work on the thin wall pipe , the thick wall pipe ( yes there is 2 thicknesses ) you have to buy the lisle set ( $$$) to use a impact gun on the welds make sure the area is clean and tight
What do you mean "the is now filler as its erw" I appreciate this guys. And good call on the trailer ball
Those expanders are good for slight (itty bitty tinie tiny) adjustments and they are a pain in the ass for that. They make a round pipe into an 8 corner pipe Not going to take the place of a muffler pipe machine and flair the ID to the OD for a slip fit. Butt welded exhaust pipe is just as strong as the pipe if its welded properly. Volumes of vital knowledge were just reduced to 2 words "welded properly" soooo take that for what it's worth.
Also, for very small beds, like the one that goes out from the mufflers toward the rocker as it heads toward and eventually over the axel, is a 2 ton press style pipe bender ok? Or will even that little bit collapse it too much?
It's tough to find shops around here do custom stuff. I found one, but he is a little high and either way I still can't get the car there. I've thought about bringing the original muffler to tip section and asking him to recreate it and a mirror image for the other side I am a decent welder so I should be ok. Not a pro, but pretty good.
ERW is electric resistance weld , no filler rod is used the metal is forced together in the final rolling process with HF electricity applied .
Ohh ok. Cool. I always just assumed it was extruded but this makes sense! Good to know. I will of course be using fill
The only reason there are slip fit connectors in Exhaust systems is because Muffler shops are In and Out Quick minded. They can't take the time to make a quality and square fit. Often times they don't even make the Pipe ahead and behind the Muffler in one piece. They like to adjust as they go to make up for lack of quality. The Wizzard
You may find expanded tube "stubs" at a good auto parts store if you need slip-joints to be able to remove the system. I've even seen the flares you mentioned in the "Muffler clamp & hanger area". They came as a kit with a flange and a biscuit but it's been a little while. Butt welding the tubing is fine if you are a decent weldor. You didn't mention what welding process you would be using or your level of expertise. I built custom headers and exhaust systems for years and I butt-welded almost everything. Slip joints in the under-car system make adjustments easier but they can leak so I only used them when absolutely necessary. When V-band clamps became commonly available I switched to them. They have two 'slip over and weld on' rings and a band clamp to hold them together. They may help make this task easier, check 'em out. http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/dynatech-v-clamp-kits
In pretty decent. I have welded a v6 Toyota/Lexus exhaust at the Y on two cars. Doesn't get much sketchier than that. This actually gives me some relief as I was dreaming the expander. The 2 hoseclamp and halved pipe are going to really help, too
I'm glad to see that I am not the only one with a pipe expander paperweight. I burned the O rings off of mine while heating the pipe up with a torch trying to get it to expand.
You didn't say if you already bought the pipe and bends yet, if you haven't might look into a kit Speedway sells, a bunch of bends and some 4' straights, they all come with a flair on one side of each piece if you want flairs, the whole kit is probably less $$$ then buying everything separate. I've used it in cases where I just needed quick and dirty pipe job like on an old truck the other day, still ended up with butt welds here and there but it is nice to have the flair if you need a joint that can come apart and it does make layout a lot easier and quicker. FWIW I usually build my exhaust with all butt welds in both steel or stainless, been doing so for years without a failure so if you can weld I'd see no problem going that route.
If you try the expander again, just put it in the pipe 1/2 inch deep and expand it in steps 1/2 inch at a time. Once you get as deep as you want start over until you get the diameter you want. If you rotate it as you go you will get more round then hexagonal. But it does not get as pretty as a shop will do it.
at this point, I'm committed to butt welds. I payed $55 for 5 u bends, shipped, and paid $40 for 20' straight 16g pipe. I don't think I have enough U bends though The "paperweight" broke, actually. One of the side split in half. Also, Tried putting in only a little and the thing opened up on the other end instead. If I ever tried that again, I think I'd do oxygen acetylene and shove the trailer ball idea way down or something dramatic like that. But for now, butt welds it is! Thank you guys. Any tips for the over axel?
I think you're overthinking this whole process. When you get your parts, lay it all out on the floor close to what it needs to be. Go from there to under the car, a piece at a time. Take your time and don't be afraid to make mistakes.....that's how we learn!
2015-06-11_08.55.13 by G V Gordon posted Jun 11, 2015 at 11:21 AM Done completely with S bends, Comes apart in four pieces, some butt welded joints. Been on the road for a couple months now. Ordered a box of 6 assorted from Autozone for about $135.
G v Gordon I can't see that it's just text. Yea I am excited to do this... Now that I don't have the burden of the pipe expander
shows up on mine, try clicking on it. if that doesnt work go scroll through my photo album, its a 32 chassis.
I have been getting along well with this but I was wondering if any of you had a tip for measure where to cut the U bends aside from eyeballing it? It's easy to measure what angle to cut something straight, but measuring where on a curve to cut to get a Certain angle without a giant like... Laser protractor or something isn't simple. Any tips would be great! The downpipe for the passenger side is made The over axle pipe for the driver side is 99% done
Answer to my own question: they are 180°, so using sharpie, eyeball it and draw lines dividing into 90° and 45°. Still just eyeballing but it helps
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