Ok, this is for the ones who run just a cheap clear fuel filter on a stockish motor. I know some people don't like the clear gl*** fuel filters, but I do and have been running them since the early 90's without any problems (until now). I've found 2 different types and one type will cut the O rings and cause a leak. The bad ones have uneven cut gl*** with the ends unrolled, here's how to tell the difference without taking them apart. Bad one: Has square barb for fuel hose Has an aluminum fill tube with seal Has sharp edge gl*** and possibly not a straight cut
The good one has a cast fill tube tapered hose barb Clean, straight, finished ends of the gl*** Also the good filters will not fit into the bad housings, the good filters have 4 inner tabs and the bad ones have no tabs.
The bad ones I've found so far are made by Mr. Gasket The good ones I've found are made by Dorman The filters are a 100 microns and keep my carbs clean, plus I can tell fuel issues when broke down on the side of the road. These are for carb (4-7lbs) only, no efi. Hope this helps someone else......... If this is common knowledge, sorry for the redundant post.
Just an example (the junk ones) of how compromises in quality design and control can cost you your life!
Both designs are junk in my opinion, a fire waiting to happen. Use a sealed steel can type filter and replace it regularly.
Absolutely. We sell them where I work, and I talk people out of them all the time. People keep saying "I want to be able to see the fuel." Why ?? You don't need to see it and what would it tell you any way ? Stay away from every version of these gl*** time bombs. Don
I have a bunch of these piled up on the work bench to show anyone who asks how dangerous this design is, and how they leak and start fires. I remove everyone of these I find. They tend to loosen and leak. Run away if someone tries to sell you one, or if they try to install one on your vehicle. John
The one described as good nearly led to my 37 burning up on I-80 when the threads actually gave out and sprayed gas all over the engine and down the side. It did not come unscrewed it just came apart. Anytime I see these I try to warn people about them. Chinese junk I ***ume.
They're better than the gl*** ones and relatively tough.....until you have a fire. Once they melt they add more fuel to the fire. Go with metal filters.
I don't recommend them but I did use them years ago. I had a problem with a stumble and poor throttle response. I noticed a stream of bubbles in the gl*** filter but could not find a leak. Turns out the fuel pump was ****ing air. One of those pumps that can unbolt and rotate the outlet. I finally found that the gasket area was wet but could not see fuel leaking even with the motor running. That's why I like to see it if possible. Short piece of tubing between the regulator and block keeps me happy.
No gl*** or plastic in fuel lines or filters is my personal policy. I don't need the "see" the fuel going through the filter any more than I need to see the oil going through it's filter. I just change them out on schedule. Plastic and gl*** fuel filters are simply not as resistant to vibration and breakage as steel. Pressurized fuel fires are as lethal as steering and braking failures. The Dorman part looks to be made in Taiwan; http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-55241-Gl***-Filter/dp/B000CO95SC Mr. Gasket in China; http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-9748-Universal-Clearview/dp/B00068OLFG Google search has a lot of reports of failed Mr. Gasket filters and regulators.
The OEMs didn't use cheap clear plastic fuel filters or screw-together inline gl*** filters for a good reason. They're total ****. Nor did they run a bunch of rubber fuel lines around the car, they only used it where a flexible connection was needed. Use a sealed steel inline filter and the minimum amount of rubber fuel hose possible and sleep well.
Steel filters are ,as said, your best bet. I just want to state that I ran one of the gl*** ones for it seemed like 20 years with no problem. But I have been known to run the transparent red vinyl fuel line too so I guess I am one of those who tempt fate unnecessarily. I would not use either on a daily driver anymore.
Its not a bad idea to be able to "see" the fuel. Gl*** bowl water separators and filters have been used since the beginning and as far as seeing your oil, that is what a dip stick is for. Not trying to be an *** here but vibration and movement is what causes metal lines to fail and a short stretch or rubber should always be used between a stationary mounted line and the motor. I just use one that is fuel rated and clear.
Fuel pumps/filters with gl*** sediment bowls were still OEM on some makes in the 50s. http://pontiac.oldcarmanualproject....ontiac Shop Manual/10-Engine Fuel/image8.html My 1968 IH Scout plow truck has a gl*** sediment bowl. https://scoutparts.com/products/photos/11931_225511.jpg Some of the information a clear element can provide at a glance would take a fair bit of work to achieve otherwise. Answers like whether Fuel is present, fuel condition, and water and dirt contamination quan***y. AC fuel filter GF 454 used to be translucent plastic back in 1973. It is metal now.
#0 years ago I put one on my wifes' Aspen that she won at a raffle..I didn't like it but the good boy in me put it on one day and in short time it unscrewed its self and leaked all over the exhaust manifold..Caught it in time, she had been home for a while so just sizzled....!!..Forward to about 10 years ago, A friend put one on his newly refurbished mustang..Told him bad choice but he liked the look..I got there one day to visit and he just got through putting the fire out................
I don't like the gl*** filters , even the good ones. Mr. Gasket is pure **** no quality control at all .
I knew this was going to start a fire (pun intended), but if you use them in a regular way they work fine for me. Don't mount them near exhaust, don't over tighten them, don't let them totally hang to vibrate (they're heavier then hose), don't use them for higher fuel pressure then rated and yes check them often. It aids me in "side of the road" repairs when fuel pump, plugged line or sending unit goes out. And to those who said gl*** doesn't belong in the fuel system.........really?!?!, Ford used sediment bowls forever, my Studebaker NOS fuel pump has a gl*** bowl on the bottom......eek. What it all comes down to is preference and maintenance. This was just a friendly warning from what I encountered. Also use minimal amount of fuel hose and use hose rated for fuel injection to slow down the degradation process from the new gas.
I don't think anyone said that gl*** doesn't belong in a fuel system. I'm fully aware of the properly-engineered gl*** sediment bowls that were commonly used back in the day. No inline gl*** fuel filters were used in the middle of a run of rubber fuel hose by the OEMs, let alone ones made of cheap and questionable materials. Cheap screw-together chrome and gl*** inline filters that are nothing more than aftermarket dress-up parts truly don't belong on anyone's car who cares about their own safety. Carry on.
Not to add more fuel to the fire but, I've personally seen the metal ones leak at the seam more then once and seen the filter material come apart. The filter chunks caused the needle to stick open on one and stopped the fuel flow on another. I will agree the quality of these are lacking and wish someone would make a good USA one with no chrome and inverted flare fittings, but I don't think they are the "route of all evil" rep they have. There are at least to different qualities that I've seen and the bad one is aiding to the good ones bad rep. Remember NOTHING will replace regular maintenance and routine checks.
Mine was on my 66 Chevy when I got it in the 80's. Its been in use almost the whole time. Its been on my ElCamino 12 years. I have had good luck with it. I think I will pull it and check the rubber, and replace some rubber fuel line while I am at it.
I run all steel flared tubing on everything & try to limit the good ethanol resistant rubber fuel line to a few inches only where it flexes before the fuel pump. The rest is all hardline too. I sell all types of filters at work & all types of folks buy them. Good idea to keep rubber line & cheap filters out of the equation. At work, ones who buy the clear Mr.Gasket fuel filters like the cheesy foam Edelbrock breathers that catch fire too & plastic pressure oil line. Quick & easy way usually winds up costly & often painful. If you have one of these fuel filters , carry a automotive grade fire estinguisher & check you insurance policy details. I am putting a sediment bowl on the 235, a NOS GM one. I did put a plastic filter on my lawn mower though. It was a Briggs n Stratton job. Time for a fire estinguisher on me mower? Everything mentioned do far could probably be reminded for under 30 bucks. Thanks for posting the differences. Flux
I was using one and heard all the nay sayers and thought yea, yea. But kept it on anyway. Then one day it leaked and filled up the valleys on the intake with gas. Yikes! I use an all steel one now. (it did look good though)
I never run a filter between the fuel pump and carb. I do use the sintered bronze filter GM put in the carb inlet. I install a metal or old settlement bulb inline filter somewhere between the gas tank and fuel pump. The pulse from the fuel pump can cause the clear plastic filters to fatuge and fail. No fire waiting to happen gl*** or plastic filters for me. I do use the AC and Carter settlement bulb filters but not under pressure.
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