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Projects SBC timing

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tom Noller, Mar 28, 2016.

  1. Tom Noller
    Joined: Nov 14, 2015
    Posts: 55

    Tom Noller
    Member
    from Iowa

    Getting closer to starting my project's engine and need advice on timing. My harmonic balancer has a Zero-to-60 scale of hash marks. About where would I be safe, on that scale, having the distributor on #1 when I fire it up? Thanks!
     
  2. Boyd Wylie
    Joined: Oct 29, 2010
    Posts: 746

    Boyd Wylie
    Member

    10 degrees
     
    porknbeaner likes this.
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,774

    squirrel
    Member

    Are you breaking in the cam, too? If so, you probably want it to be around 34 (vacuum disconnected, mechanical advance "all in") at cam break in rpm of around 2500-3000 rpm

    But initial static timing, yeah, 10 is a good place to start.
     
    Blues4U and porknbeaner like this.
  4. Yep 10-12 will get you so close that you may not ever want to change it.

    What you end up with when you are done depends on the engine but 10 degrees is a good safe place to start.
     
    Blues4U likes this.
  5. Tom Noller
    Joined: Nov 14, 2015
    Posts: 55

    Tom Noller
    Member
    from Iowa

    Bless yer pea-pickin' hearts, Guys! Thanks!
     
  6. Dan Timberlake
    Joined: Apr 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,576

    Dan Timberlake
    Member

    I think I'd give the rotor a twist with the cap off to see if the centrifugal advance works smooth and returns properly.
     
  7. wingman9
    Joined: Dec 30, 2009
    Posts: 804

    wingman9
    Member
    from left coast

    Damn, you guys are good. I just had to go through the tdc finding exercise because of mismatched timing pointer and balancer mark. I had forgotten what a good starting on the timing was, however. But I knew I would find the answer here!
     
  8. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    I always figured initial timing depended on how much advance was is the distributor but, yea, some where around 10-15 degrees initial will work great to break an engine in with. I usually don't worry a lot about the timing until I run the camshaft in and maybe drive the car a few miles to finish the break in. Then I don't worry so much about wiping a camshaft while the car is idling while I'm messing with timing and tuneup.

    BTW, here's about 10 degrees on a points style V-8 Chevy. HEI is a little different, I don't have pictures of it saved on the computer.

    distributor cap (2).jpg distributor index (2).jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2016
  9. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 7,027

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

    If you know someone that has a distributor priming tool, its worth preoiling with the tool and a drill.
     
    Donald A. Smith likes this.
  10. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

    Years ago we always went to the clinics that a parts store put on for the local mechanics. They did one with Federal Mogul on engine rebuilds. The rep said priming the engine on the stand was worth an extra 20,000 + miles on a rebuild.

    That tip stuck with me all these years.
     
    Donald A. Smith likes this.
  11. big duece
    Joined: Jul 28, 2008
    Posts: 7,027

    big duece
    Member
    from kansas

  12. mad mikey
    Joined: Dec 22, 2013
    Posts: 9,395

    mad mikey
    Member

    I made one out of an old dizzy when I was 16 years old and still use it, works great and cost around nothing.:D
     
  13. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,921

    Larry T
    Member

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