This one goes to the Hemi Gurus out there. I'm currently collecting parts for my next build . A 57 Chrysler 392 with a Weiand wc245 intake. When I placed the intake on the block the first thing I noticed is that it barely covered the large square port heat risers., barely! If I move the intake to a side no more than a 1/16 of an inch. I can clearly see the port exposed on the opposite side. I then took a different intake, a Weiand 2-4 and placed it on to compare. They made provisions on this manifold in the form of bump out that clearly cover the ports. I only show it in the picture to prove my point. I'm not going to use the 2-4... I want to run the 4-2 intake What have others done to remedy this. I'm figuring weld a plug in the riser port or make a plate to go between intake and block . Or. Will a gasket with filled H.R. Do the trick? Any advise will be appreciated. Highboy.
I am by no means a HEMI GURU= although Im building one....... But just from a mechanics standpoint, and other's will correct me quickly- I would want something covering the port, and a gasket just wont cut it. Perhaps( read^ ) , if that's your intake of choice, and everything else is a go, A couple of beads to extend coverage? Everything can be altered and machined to look correct, and work. Might be discoloration at the alteration, but it will work. For myself= I would have to have the port covered like any manifold has..... Just the way I would tackle this issue......Result's may vary......
I welded up the aluminum manifold a little to raise the port. You might try a stainless steel shim, It it doesn't work it didnt cost much.
Modify the intake by building up the ridge that covers the intake. But the ports still wont match. Are you sure everything is kosher? Have the heads or the intake been milled? would that create such a large gap? There shouldn't be that much gap if the intake is what you think it is and the engine is what you think it is. Is there a similar gap on the other side? Some one who knows will be here soon.
I'm more into Dodge and Desoto hemi's but could you have 354 heads. I know Chrysler changed the heads not the intake when they raised the deck height requiring a spacer with low deck heads.
It sounds like you may have 354 truck heads. Are there water ports on the heads' ends? Check the numbers on the heads.
If for some reason you don't want to build up the manifold to cover the port. And you don't care about having a heat riser port. For race motors I have plugged the heat riser port on several heads. Blown fuel engines don't like the connected exhaust between the two center ports. I took the bare head and taped up the valve pocket where the exhaust heat port enters. Also the valve guide. Then used plaster of Paris to fill the valve pocket. Turned the heads so the intake face was up and set them close to the fire that I built to melt aluminum cans or old parts in a plumbers ladle. Poured the aluminum in the heat riser port to just above the manifold face. It will stick up a little without running off. After the head cools I chip out the plaster of Paris and draw file off the aluminum flush with the intake face. It seals fine. No exhaust leaks. Maybe I dress up the valve bowl a little. I used to charge $25 a head to do this. fence boards make a plenty hot enough fire.
PS Make damn sure the port is dry. A little oil or some other fluid will boil and blow that molten aluminum back out at you really fast.
Do you want, or need, exhaust heat? Regardless of which head casting, I will suggest cutting a stainless plug (same shape as the port) out of ½" bar stock that fits tightly into the port and that you would drive flush with a 2lb hammer. If you want some heat then drill a ½" hole in the plug. Problem solved. .
Easy way to spot a 354 head is the number. The second number is the year. It should be a 7 or 8 for a 392
The stainless idea is fine. The heads I did were for blown alcohol motors and the guys that had them felt the cross contamination between the two center cylinders was causing them to lift blowers. It seemed to be a pretty common idea. I even did some Chevy and Ford heads which do not connect two cylinders. But the shop I did then for just didn't like having that port there. i don't know. Cabbage: What if it's a '57 354? Would that number deal still work?
I don't need the heat risers. And the engine is built so I don't wanna pull the heads so I like your idea. Only question why stainless? Could I use cold rolled flat stock?
No passenger 354 Hemi in 57-58 The Mopar casting number does kinda-sorta follow a general guide with the second number often, but not always, indicating the first year the casting was made...never say never/always with MaMopar. For casting number it is best to actually look at the numbers: http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/?page_id=240 ...only an appearance issue...mild steel will eventually get rusty from the heat cycles. .
73RR.. I checked the numbers and they're 57-58 heads. Then I spoke to a tech at Hot Heads and he told me that the Weiand intake I have was designed before 57 therefore before Chrysler went to the large square heat riser 1" 11/16 X 1"5/16. So that's why it barely covers. So now it's a matter of plugging the hole. Thanks for the advise everyone. Maybe I'll document it for further reference
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