1935-1936 Ford pickup tech for the masses

You can buy these on ebay now starting at $40 for used in good condition.

 

View attachment 3106354
That truck's got potential.

 

I hope so, I've already got 3 months work invested in it. Still looking for some local help with metal work and paint. The 86 year old owner friend of mine bought it in college in 1951 and built that grill himself.

 

Awesome. Have you started a build thread so I can follow along and copy everything for my truck haha.

 

I have a lot of pictures but I sort of had an unexpected deadline imposed on me recently so I am trying to get it back together in primer before I have all but one joint in my neck fused in a little over two weeks. I should have plenty of time to write something up around early May.

 

Ouch good luck with the recovery on that.

 

This is a great learning tool!! Thanks for your knowledge!!

Jim

 

Anyone used a modern chassis for 35/36 PickUp? What would be the best to use? I know some people use Chev S10 for early Chevy PickUps...

 

The only me that I have seen used is the Ford Ranger pickup. The late 90's-2000's. Unsure if he was using the extended cab or the regular cab. There used to be a guy in town that did that for 40 fords.

 

Can rust holes in windshield frames be repaired?
Mine are starting to rust out in the lower corners.
Almost everything I see on Ebay is rusted in the lower half too.

 

I actually saw one the other day while buying some wire wheels. I was told it was a complete kit with the body and fenders out of glass and it went on a Ford Ranger frame and running gear. This one had a Ford 5.0 I'm guessing the kit was made for this frame and engine combo. It didn't pay much attention once I saw what it was.

 

Not much you can do since they are folded sheetmetal. On the produce truck I figured it didn't matter, so I blasted mine painted the insides with POR15 and filled the holes with an epoxy putty like JB weld, filed it off and put a skim coat of filler. Not a long term fix, but I am always looking for a better frame.

 

Folded sheet metal. Hmmm, ... thought it was extruded. That changes my thoughts for a plan of attack. If it was extruded, I was pondering the idea of trying to bend a second top half to replace the bottom half.

Mine was chromed in the late 60's. When it started rusting through, I was thinking about grinding and welding, then re-chroming, but I wasn't sure and didn't want to make a mess out of it. If it's folded metal, then there's probably not enough substance left for that and your approach makes more sense.

Do the new frames from NY fit like the originals?

 

I know that Drake was selling them and they can't give me an estimated date of when they will be back in stock. One of my buddies bought one and he was very happy with the fit.

It appears that it is done on a press brake and sort of wrapped around the inside piece. It looks pretty complicated to manufacture to me.

 

A couple years ago after lots of begging, I got my great uncle's 1936 Ford Pickup. 100% original and minus the rust spots I wax over, I still polish the paint on the truck. I still run the original flathead (for as long as I can before it overheats) and just put a blanket over the original seat that has a small hole in it. In an attempt to find the right paint code for it, the matching color was Slate Green and was on 1935 not 1936 pickups. This is where the research started. After reading this post a lot of the information is dead on the money but some things simply don't fit. The grill shell is 6.5 deep, the bumper arms still pass through the fender, and so far that I have only found those points to not be accurate. However the rest all fits. I have attached some pictures of some of the things pointed out on a 36. I guess by biggest question here is whether my truck is a late 35, or early 36, or ? Again I do know it is all original and remember playing on this truck when I was 9 in a garage in central Nevada.

 

Henry was notorious for being a tightwad. My guess is this is a late 35/early 36. He probably had a run of left over 35 stuff that he wouldn't give up, so he used them on the early 36 until gone.

The cab is definitely 36 along with the door pulls and the grille. The fenders are 35, but I am unsure if any ever made it to the 36 run. Also, it could have been wrecked in it's life and 35 fenders were all that was available.

 

Did anyone do a write up on the window fuzzies?
I'm starting with previously molested doors so I could use a little idea on what's going where.

 

Just picture a monkey and a football. It's not a fun task.

 

Hey Vicky, I just finished a set of those doors. Let me know if you would like pictures. Generally, you don't have to remove any welds to replace the glass run channels. If your doors are early (i.e. '35 or early '36) they will have slots in the flanges that form the glass opening at the bottom of the door glass and use 4 rubber bumpers rather than the long metal backed fuzzies that Vintique includes in that kit. Joe at Joe's Antique Auto has the bumpers.

 

That would be awesom!
Thanks
My doors are '36 with built in non removable garnish and previously molested.
I started a specific thread- http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ve-info-on-how-theyre-supposed-to-be.1041820/
But I figured my question might get a better exposure here.

 

Just FYI for anyone searching this thread for help on the door glass channels, it got covered pretty well in the thread noted above, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ve-info-on-how-theyre-supposed-to-be.1041820/. I also asked previously about brakes. Here is some great info in a Ford tech bulletin. www.btc-bci.com/~billben/brakeadj.html .

 

Hi guys,
I have a 35 Pickup, and I need the top part of the dash. I have searched everywhere, but no-one seems to make them. Does anyone have any ideas where I could get one (second hand needing repair will do). It will need to be shipped to the UK.
Thanks in advance,
Charlie.

 

Here and the Ford Barn are good places to find one. Use the classified/wanted section and post an ad.
Also you can find them on ePay, now and then. At the moment, there are at least 2 for sale in there.
Do a search for Item # 302182930343 and/or Item # 311769035730

Hope this helps

 

Will do sir. Thank you.
Charlie.

 

Well, I will start here with another brake question and go with a new thread if this is thought to be the wrong place for this. I just "finished" a frame off on a pretty nice '36 Ford pickup (if there is such a thing as finished) and I am not happy with the brake pedal feel. The truck has been snowed in at my shop since before Christmas so I can't test drive it but I just don't think my friend will be happy with it as I can, with effort, push the '41 brake pedal to the floor. After many days of adjusting, replacing parts, reading, etc. I think I understand the cause, but not the solution yet.
The entire system is brand new with the exception of the rear drums, which were turned, and the transplanted factory 1941 pedal assembly. The master cylinder is a Speedway "Corvette Style" 1 inch dual piston with 3x2 bolt adapter mounted under floor feeding a Ford proportioning valve through Speedway residual pressure valves (2# front/10# rear). No power brake booster. All new lines supply Speedway front disc and 1940 rear drum brakes. Nothing leaks and I have bleed over 2 quarts of fluid through this system!
What I think I am fighting is stroke length of the master cylinder piston. Looking from the center of the truck, the pedal bell crank that the brake rod pins to starts just short of the 7 o'clock position and rotates toward 9 o'clock so at the end of pedal travel the brake rod has nearly no movement into the master cylinder. Does anyone have an easy way to re-clock the the pedal bell crank over closer to the 5 o'clock position to increase stroke on the master cylinder piston?

 

Can you change the length of your pushrod? Or move the master cylinder closer to the pedal pivot point?

 

Thanks for the replies guys, but the problem isn't the distance from the pedal assembly to the master cylinder, it's the potential stroke of the brake rod between the pedal assembly to the master cylinder piston. I made an adjustable length rod and it is as long as it needs to be and still relieve pressure on the front brake hydraulic circuit in the full up position. Like many of us, I think I just need more stroke.

 

Hi all, long time lurker. I am needing some help. I have a 1936 truck replica body (fiberglass) that I am trying to put together. I bought it about 12 years ago to build from someone that had started on it. It didn't seem that he got very far so I thought I was safe with any issues, as he didn't seem to have a good plan with what he was doing. Shortly after purchasing it we had our daughter, then my wife's parents passed away and I never got much chance to work on it. Now I am finally getting some time to put it together and figure out what I am going to do with it, and hopefully teach my daughter a few things as she has some interest in it.

I never had the body completely put together and I am not sure he did either as I have run into a number of issues that he created. The body was supposed to have been molded off an original truck and slightly modified to work with a different chassis. I visited the shop that built the bodies and he told me some of the parts could actually interchange with originals. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago and the business is no longer around for me to contact. While trying to line up the cab with the hood, grill, and front fenders I found that I couldn't get it "just rite". I measured and moved things, tilted the cab and raised and lowered it as well. After looking closer at the hood top and sides I noticed that they had been trimmed. At first I figured it was just typical trimming from taking them out of the mold, but then I suspected that more than that was removed. I found measurements on a couple of websites that listed the lengths of the hood and sides (30 1/2" hood center & 38" hood side at top edge) and found that mine are a little over an inch shorter. So I slid the cab back an inch and found that the fit of the bottom of the cab to the fender/running board are much smoother and more even now.

What I am hoping to find is someone that could make a tracing of the outline of a hood side on a piece of paper and mail it to me. I would pay you for your time and postage. Then I could take that tracing and put it on a piece of hardboard for a template and use it to compare my hood sides. I am nut sure if he trimmed it evenly front or back and that could change the grill rake and front fender alignments as well as the cab. After that I think I could add the trimmed off part back on with fiberglass using the template. I appreciate any help.

 

I have a 1936 pickup hood side panel on the workbench now. I don't mind tracing a pattern for you. Tell me exactly what you want by email: niceguy92115@gmail.com

In the meantime, maybe this will help:

 

Thanks. Will do