Projects garagefind/ survivor 40 coupe build. FIRED IT UP!

Thanks for your comments and I often refer to 39 guys build for info.

I agree. I just need to get my head into it. I have some pix in the next post showing my hood fit. The "chrome" is not satin really; it is pretty shiney, but more like good clear coat. That piece is going to be redone because it has some flaws.

 

Here are some shots of the hood gaps (1/4"); I want to move it toward the firewall about 1/8 ", but I haven't decided how yet.

Maybe you can see how much the nose ( V8 emblems) sticks out beyond the center grille section. Moving the hood won't fix all of that, but it's the right direction.

 

Hoods on post 1936 cars are difficult, in that there are multiple parameters to deal with (all at once!)
I adjusted some '32 hoods/shells at my shop, cars and commercials, dealing with what seemed to be 'terminal gaposis' in most cases.
'39s and '40s took the most time...adjustments usually meant torchwork.

 

I think the hood actually looks pretty good at the front. I elongated the holes in the cowl to move my hood back. But you have to be careful as the hood tends to hit the top of the cowl when you are opening it if you move it too far back. Also remember that you will be adding paint to that sheet metal which changes fitment more than you might think. I think you are pretty close now!

 

I also thought that the hood/cowl gap wasn't that bad, but there is no way to move the grille forward enough on it's own. I feel like I must be overlooking something; I just don't know what. I'm going to loosen all the bolts again and see what happens.
Thanks for your comments Mike and 39 guy; I really want to avoid the torch.

 

I wonder if the top of the grill needs to come forward?

 

Yes, I'm hoping I can move just the center section forward

 

If you move hood back. I think you will move fenders and Grill back also. Yes, I Know it's a lot of work,Once you get it, drill 1/8 holes in every thing for relocation after paint..,Good luck

 

That's a good idea; I drilled the holes in the door hinges, but hadn't thought of it for the front sheet metal. This is not a very productive weekend; I have out-of-town relatives etc. I did find a hood grille mis- alignment that I didn't expect. Maybe I'll have some pix tonight or tomorrow.

 

I changed direction and went to the deck lid alignment. My original hinges were a little sloppy, so I made new oversize pins and painted the hinges before installing them. here are some pix of the fit.

I added a shim to this side to drop the corner. Things are going well.
View attachment 3179543
After I installed the trunk lid supports and fit and adjusted the latch/handle assy. I removed the supports to paint and install new springs I got from Macs. I figured on some wear and this is what I found.


Part of the fix.

The pivot pin.

Now I'm deciding whether to build it up with weld or make new ones.

 

I hope your new springs work better than my new ones did. I have a new set of trunk supports and an old set if you decide you need or want either send me a PM.

 

I welded the hole and the pin.
Sorry for the blurry pic.
I need to work on close ups for detail.
This morning I installed the rebuilt trunk supports. 39 guy called it; the replacement springs wouldn't hold up the trunk lid. Next is plan B

 

Neither did the original ones, as a kid I got whacked in the head sitting in the trunk in the shade when that sucker dropped on my head, I guess that's what happened to me!

 

me too. with this same deck lid. Stay tuned; I think I have the fix. Of course, I thought that a .couple of days ago.

 

Now, I only let you borrow my broom stick trunk prop....

 

This is my method for getting rid of the broomstick & my car did come with a broomstick.
After welding & re-shaping holes I welded the pivot pins so they wouldn't flex.
Next & the most important part is to cut the loop from the spring, then heat (with oyx & accet) the end & roll a new loop, I used Chanel lock pliers, let cool do NOT quench. Re-install.
Much better than the replacement springs.

Before the metallurgists chime in, this has been working for 5 years.

 

Hey, Bob; I'm doing my best to return it. I'm going to put the original springs back on. They may be a little stronger.

Rather than reworking the spring, I was looking at making new pins and bushings with a shoulder ,which would provide more bearing area for the pin. I was also planning to "clock " the spring slot about another 25/30 deg ccw. I welded the pins this time. "Great minds think a like"

 

I found my problem and the pix explain
This is the new spring. below is the old spring. Notice the difference in clocking of the end loop with the center slot in the same position.
The old spring has more preload and thus is already as 42 Merc described. I installed the old one on one side and the trunk lid stood up like a wedding d**k. Soon as the paint dries, I'm done with the trunk fit.

 

Horay, success

 

Some people build their own hot rods, and others BUILD them. You are in the latter group, Joel. Wow is all I can say. After wanting a '40 coupe for 45 years, I finally got one a month ago. I will be following this thread and learning!
Subscribed.

 

Welcome aboard. I would also recommend 39 guy to follow.

 

I'm super happy with the reworked lid supports. The last pic is a gal. of oil extra load. No problem.

 

Now that's something you will not see every day on on a 40 Ford coupe trunk lid! Well done Joel!

 

I went back to aligning the hood and it fits the cowl pretty good . The rest of the sheet metal needs to move around some more. I decided to hang the doors in case i needed to re-shim the body at the B pillars. It took about 5 hrs to get the pins out of the hinges with a hinge pin press. When I checked the holes for wear some needed work and I couldn't find any oversize pins from the normal suppliers. I shrunk the worn holes with heat and a hammer. it worked pretty well and I resized the holes with a reamer.
Before the rework. It's hard to see, but the hole is stretched vertically. Door is fit and latched. It took half a day to clean the latch and 2 days to find them both.
This is the left side lower and the lower boss was probably the worst worn ( upper one in the picture).
One thing; when you do this it stretches the metal length wise also so you have to file and fit to get the hinge parts back together.

 

You are a pretty resourceful guy Joel. Another nice save.

 

When you paint all the hardware, springs, etc. What paint do you use? Do you have a preference that holds up really well?

 

For the springs, I used Miracle Paint from Hirsch Automotive in NJ. I also use it sometimes as a base under Rustoleum. Miracle Paint is very tough and sticks like iron, even over slightly rusted surfaces. It is UV sensitive and must be topcoated if exposed to sunlight. It is nasty to work with because it is a moisture cured urethane. You have to topcoat it before it sets completely ( still slightly tacky).

Thanks, Sam . That door hasn't been latched since about 1978; it felt good.

 

was told by a top notch hot rod/custom car builder that to gets gaps near perfect adjust everything as best as you can - then take off metal, or add metal - the original gaps never were perfect, and the changes of the original metal over the many years sometimes do not ever want to co-operate.

 

I know and I'm OK with factory fitmet; I just try to get the gaps parallel top to bottom. For instance, the passenger door is 1/16" narrower than the drivers door and the passenger side opening is 1/16" wider than the drivers side opening. I think of it as factory "patina".

 

I have a couple of things going on. I finished hanging the doors and despite my best efforts, I may have to move the metal in the cowl on the drivers side. Pic to follow.
While looking for something, else I ran across a new speedometer cable. I tried it for fit (length) and to check That I had access from under the car. When I raised the trans mount, I overlooked this part. At first it looked like a right angle adapter might be the answer, so I called Speedometer Service Co in Milwaukee. Roger was very helpful and provided the new driven gear for the trans. To make a long story short, I wasn't able to use a 90 deg adapter. After grinding on the X rail as much as I could, there was not enough room. Plan C was always to cut a hole in the frame and loop the cable through the frame and back to the trans and since I already removed part of the frame , that's what at I did. Pix below

1 1/16 hole to clear cable nut and the lower edge of the speedo drive hole. The upper lip of the frame and the X reenforcement plate of exactly in the way.

Inside the frame rail with clearance effort.

This was done with a extended shaft die grinder.
After paint touch up.

More to see the access restrictions. I realize this should have been and could have been fixed much easier and probably slicker with the body off; I ain't going back.
The new 90 in. speedo cable is on its way.