That's not so bad, a little bondo and spray paint.................... I'm glad that is on the East coast
Don't feel so safe my friend.... The FedX guy dragged it from the west side!!!! For some east coast rebuild
It looks like they didn't turn the gas on the mig. or clean the paint (oil, grease) off it before they stuck it together. Even my goose turds look better than that!
I don't want to hijack the thread with bad welds.....but I have to share these. The repair tag on the Hydraulic cylinder read....."leaks at the port" The bottom picture is a 5" pipe.
Wish I could weld like this but it's nice to have a local welding instructor nice enough to do it for me. I just tack it in & he does the rest. Flux
Ok Sorry lets get back to some better welds!!!!! I will do a before and after with the axle I posted before.... Here is one from the other week
I did but following BCCHOPIT would seem kinda foolish! Sure wish I had a project that needed a new axle.
I am assuming that trim was stainless about 0.010" thick. What kind of a TIG Machine does it take to be able to do that? Maybe 0.020 tungsten and 5 amps? Can you elaborate on the set up? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Back purging is always helpful when welding Stainless, you get full penetration with out all the nasty stuff on the backside. On trim I usually use a pulse setting about 1 1/2 per second.
Practice on box cutter blades welding the sharp edges together. And when you get good at that, get a piece of aluminum foil and tear it in half turn one side over so you have a shiney and a dull piece side by side and weld it together, you don't need any filler. This was done on my Lincoln 275 Square Wave Machine that's about 30 years old. Frank
Thanks 1-shot. I have a Lincoln 175 square wave tig. It is a hobby machine and is all automatic with no controls for wave balance and no pulse capability. The lowest output is 12 amps and with 0.020 tungsten. There is no way the arc is stable enough to weld razor blades or aluminum foil. I have been using it for 20 years and am a decent self taught welder with stick, mig, tig, oxy-act, etc. This welder does great butt welding auto body sheet metal. But that is still 0.030. It also does okay with 1/8 aluminum or so. Thicker alum it does not have the heat capability. I am looking to move up to a very good machine and want the capability to weld all the way from razor blades to aluminum cylinder heads. But don't know what the features are needed in a machine to do this. Suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I like the newer inverter machines, because you can control everything. I have played with some of the new stuff by Lincoln and Miller it all depends on what you are trying to do, and what your budget can afford. I don't like scratch start or lift arc, I was luck enough that I had a good friend that worked for a distributor and learned a lot from him, if I had a problem he was only a phone call away. I have another friend that's a welding instructor at the local junior college. You can pick up a lot by watching Welding Tips and Tricks, Jody is down to earth and made his liveing welding every thing and is explained in simple laymans terms. There is also Mr. TIG both of them give a lot of information and lots of arc shots. Hope this helps, most of the distributors have a demo room where you can try their stuff out, and find what works for you. They should give you plenty of support. I learned the foil trick from the Lincoln rep years ago at a autobody show and wound up buying the demo machine right there, loved it ever since. Frank
I found this thread a couple of days ago and couldn't stop reading. Absolutely incredible welds and several world class welders! Here is my contribution: Repairing a broken Zinc die cast hinge. I used 4043 rod. (First time I ever tried this). Technically it is probably not welding because the zinc die cast melts about 800F so it is more like soldering / brazing. The 4043 melts around 1200F. So it is almost like using the base metal as the solder to the 4043 filler rod. Because of the high zinc, when you melt the base metal it boils, spatters and disrupts the shield gas. I found the technique was to heat the base metal, and add the filler then more heat in the filler and melt it in. This probably forms a zinc aluminum alloy. The other thing was not to weld very long and cool with compressed air to keep from melting base metal. Not a pretty weld! But after cleaning it up, I put it back in service and it seems to be holding up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I bought a Lincoln square wave 175 tig 20 years ago. It is a very good machine. The only problem I have ever had with it was in the middle of a weld (using in stick mode with 7018) it went full throttle and burned thru 1/4" plate. It did it intermittently several times. Finally found a loose connection inside the machine in the control circuit. Tightened it and no problems since. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sort of tough to see but boy welded seams on this home made gas tank for truck in pic. Not one leak at all! He had just returned from 6 weeks trade school to become boiler maker. https://www.flickr.com/photos/22832895@N08/13426204805/in/dateposted/
Agreed, getting to work with new and known materials is a treat! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Incredible... for me. After stumbling a cross this thread I have done a heap of research on 'walking the cup' an HEAPS of practice. Got up to this stage so far - I needed a 7/8" shank for a sheet metal roller project. Cheers Aaron. P.S. what else have people been welding over the holidays? Sent from my SM-G360G using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
