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Technical 283 1964 Impala Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Musclecarsornocars, Apr 25, 2016.

  1. If you want to respond directly you can quote them or just answer. I can ususaly figure out what's going on!
     
  2. I think I'll give those guys a call this sometime this week, hopefully they can point me in the right direction for my setup, thanks for the tip!
     
  3. I see you're point but 1. I've looked at how much a 409 costs (it's a heck of a lot of money!) and 2. I'd like to keep the originality of the car if I can. What would be best is if I can keep it looking pretty much stock with the right block but add a little more oomfh. Either way I'm a little hesitant with engine modifications because there's only 27,000 miles on the engine, I kinda feel like if be ruining a good thing. So I guess I'm a little indecisive, trying to see what my options are.
     
  4. You can reply by hitting the red "reply" button ...... or you can scroll to the bottom of the page and write your reply.
     
  5. I'm much older than you '64.
    I sort of look OK from afar, but my exterior is getting worse and worse everyday, as well.
    I also see a lot of cracks, as I look in the mirror.
    We are no different than our cars.:(
     
  6. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 33,599

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    that is OK - to gain a little power locate a stock 4 barrel manifold with a new four barrel - dual exhaust with limited restrictions will gave some more power - plus, with a healthy sounding exhaust system it will seem like it is faster - find a local muffler shop that does work on Hot Rods to help you figure out what would gives the best sound for you. do not bother with changing rearend gears if you want to take it out on the highway
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
  7. Sounds like I've got a sound plan head - call about the right rear end for me, find a 64ish 4bbl manifold and get a nice exhaust system. Aside from that, I've heard some mixed feelings about the 283 Power Pack heads. I believe they were the ones used on the hotter corvette 283s. Do you(or any one else) think they are a good idea? Any decent power gains? Any at all?
     
  8. Understand that your current 283 2 bbl has 195 HP.
    Although a 4 bbl and dual exhaust MAY help your overall power, to a degree, understand that it is still a 283, maybe 225 HP, with the 4 bbl and dual exhaust.
    Your rear is currently a 3:08.
    Changing the rear to a 3:36 or a 3:55 will again help initial acceleration performance somewhat, but don't get misdirected, thinking the 283 will be a tire smoking S.O.B., because of the updates you are proposing.
    If you wanted a hot rod, of sorts, you bought the wrong car.
    If you wanted a hot rod, of sorts, the 283 / PowerGlide combo is not your answer.
    The '64 is a beauty of a "cruiser".
    Accept it for what it is, the dollars spent by you will still give you a "somewhat better performing" 283 / PowerGlide.
     
  9. jeffd1988
    Joined: Apr 12, 2016
    Posts: 537

    jeffd1988

    This will be your best bet for waking up that 283. I agree with this right here all the way. Maybe add an electric fan to help free up that motor also.
     
  10. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    you already have power pack heads on it now
     
    Moriarity likes this.
  11. Haha yeah I know. I just wanted to see if I could make it a little peppier, a little more get up and go. I wasn't thinking of 11 second quarter miles or smoking the tires at quarter throttle, just a little more power to make it a little more fun to drive. :)
     
  12. I do? I thought the 283/195hp was the least dressed up 283 there was and that the PP's came on the hotter versions. Did all of them have PP's?
     
  13. Best idea yet.

    The stock manifold takes a 4GC ,not a Q-jet. It would be hard to find a good 4 GC anyway. Maybe find a 327 /300 459 intake or an aluminum dual plane, painted orange ,and put the smallest Edelbrock they make on it, shorty headers and duals with Flowmasters. Turbo 350, and leave the gears alone.
    If that's not enough for you, then you got the wrong car to start out with.
     
  14. Same heads in 64 ,right up through 67. 520 or 896. Only difference was the 4GC carb and duals, but I've seen them without them too.
     
  15. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,739

    Torkwrench
    Member

    Yes, those are Power Pack heads. The mark on the ends of the head tells what type they are. Yours have a bar with a triangle pointing up, which is on Power Pack heads. These same heads were used on 250 hp. 327 Chevy V8's.

    Basically you have a Power Pack 283 but with a 2 barrel carb, instead of a 4 barrel.

    As has been mentioned.....Switch to a 4 barrel intake and carb. Either a stock Chevy intake, (with a Rochester 4GC), or an after market dual plane, such as an Edelbrock C4B, with a smaller 4 barrel carb. A 600 CFM vacuum secondary Holley, (model 1850), would be a good choice with the C4B.

    IMPORTANT.......Be sure that the new intake has an oil filler tube hole in it.
     
  16. I looked at the picture and could see the shift linkage on the steering collum. That's how I knew he had a powerglide.
     
  17. back in the day We would get a factory cast iron intake from a 300 Hp 327 and a Carter AFB carb. A 4GC intake was also used with a aluminum adaptor to allow a larger carb. The stock 4GC 4 bbl carb was 380CFM. I have a used high milage 65 283 in my 55 chevy wagon at the moment. Its a stock engine with a adapter on a 4GC intake to use a 625 CFM carter carb and a set of hedders. Its a stick shift. And it will easily smoke the tires. Factory HEI parts will not fit your original points dist. You can install a kit or use a HEI. The tune up makes a lot of difference in any engines performance. For now If I was you I wouldn't spend a lot of money. Use the car to learn on. Play with the engine trans combo you now have. When something fails fix that. Do one thing at a time. Buy a good used rear end chunk. (that's a used rear that you already have) and install it. keep your original rear chunk. If the used one fails you still have it to swap back in your car. The auto trans will not be that abusive on the rear end.(If its not Broke don't fix it?) You could also use a Q jet intake and a adaptor to install a different carb.. If you came by here I would give you a Q jet intake. sell you a 370 rear chunk for $100. If you wanted to use a Q jet intake or other intake That didn't have the oil filler tube. You could swap valve covers and get one that has the oil fill provision.
     
  18. BLACKNRED
    Joined: May 8, 2010
    Posts: 391

    BLACKNRED
    Member

    Go buy a good running 396 - 454. Out of a rusty POS or a wreck.

    Yes you can get a bit more pep out of that 283, but putting a stock big block in a full size Chevy and you won't look back.
     
  19. And with a big block his drivetrain will quickly fail. The suspension will need upgraded. The brakes will need upgraded. This is a young guy who is learning. I imagine he don't have a lot of dollars to spend.
     
  20. Haha not to mention it's got manual drums all around! I don't think big block power is the right answer [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
     
  21. I think you're one of the first people to understand my situation [emoji23][emoji23]. Thanks for that. I'm definitely getting a new exhaust soon as the original one is pretty badly rotten away. As for the intake, I like the idea of the 4GC as it keeps the same sorta original look to it, which I value. I'll have to look more into rear ends and how they work, then I think I could maybe dive into that a bit as you said. On a side note, has anyone heard of side gapping and indexing spark plugs? I heard that was good for 2-5 hp. Just wondering if anyone has tried it themselves.
     
  22. Side gapping spark plugs doesn't do anything. A electronic dist gives you a hotter stronger spark. Think of the spark as the flame on a candle. And think of the engines compression as the wind. A weak spark and the compression can blow it out easier.
     
  23. And you would get that from a HEI distributor?
     
  24. You can work out your real end ratio with a piece of chalk and pen and paper.
    Jack up one wheel and place a GOOD stand under that side so the wheel spins freely ( leave trans in neutral). Make a mark on your tail shaft at the rear, and another on your raised tyre (or use the valve as a marker). Turn your tyre by hand one revolution, while you have a buddy watch the mark on the tail shaft. 1 rev. of the wheel & 3.5 revs of the tail shaft = 3.5 diff. You should be able to get fairly close with this method. If you have a list of possible ratios your car had as options, you can usually work out what you have.
     
  25. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 21,590

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    @Musclecarsornocars
    Have you ever heard of the term "snakeoil", look it up, it goes back 100 years or more.
    Manufacturers come up with new crap every day to grab the consumers attention.
    All they have to do is pay some famous race car driver to say their product helps them win races and the gullible public eat it up looking for a simple fix.
     
  26. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    Ok...I've read enuff...

    First...buy an early turbo 350 trans and have it gone thru by someone you know...use the stock 350 torque convertor, it'll all bolt right up to your stock power glide flexplate and you can use the stock column shift linkage and the stock starter. Turbo 350's came in 2 lengths 25" and 28"...you want the shorter 25" early version because the 1964 aluminum power glide was 25" long, so it'll bolt up to the stock trans mount and the drive shaft won't have to be shortened.
    You DON'T NEED a 4 barrel carb/intake right now... you DON'T NEED an HEI ignition swap...the stock ignition works just fine for now...you DON'T NEED to swap rear gears right now...stick with the 2 barrel carb...the tranny swap will make you smile when you hit the gas pedal.

    Second...put a 2" dual exhaust on it using the stock rams horn exhaust manifolds to help the motor breathe better...it'll also sound better and make you smile again.

    These simple changes will make you and your wallet smile...save your money to later go bigger/badder/faster if that's what you want....just my .02 cents...I could be wrong (but not this time) ;)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
  27. Okay so this would make sense. Like I've said, I just want it to put a smile on my face when I press on the gas, not to throw me back into the seat. How many gears are in the TH350 since the PG only has 2, how would the column shifter function with an extra gear or two?
     
    3wLarry likes this.
  28. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,256

    Gman0046
    Member

    Musclecar, you are obviously a young guy new to the hobby. You've received lots of suggestions. Some good some bad. Your 64 sedan is a nice cruiser and not what anyone would call a hot rod. In my estimation 3Window Larry has given you the best suggestions. LEAVE the rear end alone. Its got a great highway gear. Right now your 283 produces 195 HP. A 64 Chevy with a 283 and four barrel came from the factory with an advertised 220 HP. Is it worth spending all that money for 25 HP? Thats why I'd also leave the current two barrel alone. Add a dual exhaust system with good sounding mufflers and drive the wheels of your 64. As you become more familiar with the old car hobby you can always buy or build a hot rod at a later date. To answer your question about the 350 TH it has three gears vs two in the pg. Be careful, its easy for other people to spend your money. Listen to those who know.

    Gary
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2016
    3wLarry likes this.
  29. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    Thanks Gary...you just saved me a lot of typing
     
    Moriarity and kidcampbell71 like this.

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