A good source for a rear sump pan is take a look at a Ford 4x4 pan. make sure you get the pick up and the main bearing bolt the pick up bolts to. Dawg
Here's my 47 ton and a half converted to a half ton gasser most people ask why I did it or is it an international truck
Thanks for the complimen ts all. So I went to kittys cruise night last week and I saw a really nice roadster with a nailhead in it. I think the car might be on here, it had a hamb sticker on the winsheid. Anyway it had a steering system that I gave me some ideas for my truck. I didn't think to take a picture for some odd reason or another. You can sorta see it under the header in this picture. Anyway I thought about how I could get a u joint or some sort of bend in the steering column to clear the head, it seems the only way to do something like that is to put the steering box in front of the axle on my truck. I guess I could screw around with the caster and put the axle on backwards. That would be alot of work and money just to hopefully get it to clear. So here comes the big question: Is there a way I could cut the steering column sheath off at the firewall and just have the actual shaft going into the box? I think that's gonna give me enough clearance to barely be able to squeeze the motor in it. Thanks for looking. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I have come across yet another issue with the steering. While I was looking for ways to make the shaft clear the head of the engine I noticed that the bell crank out of the steering box hits the leaf spring and moves the whole axle to the left 1/2 an inch. That's why the steering feels spongy when turned all the way to the right. I know this can't be good, but at the same time how bad is it? I would assume all of their 1/2 ton trucks and passenger cars do it, although they didn't have an fe in them. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hi guys I have yet another question. I've pulled the front clip off of my tuck and have ran into a problem, it's huge. I have nowhere to put it in my tiny garage and I cannot get it into smaller pieces because the 70 year old bolts have stripped out. I'm do not own an air hammer at the moment either. What's a good way to get the bolts off. Thanks in advance. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can find a rear sump FE pan, but with the oil pump in the front (as in most Ford engines) the front of the pan will be at least 5" deep. What is the maximum depth of the front of the pan, that will work for you ?
Is the motor and trans already mounted? Is it straight and level? The pictures make it look a little strange. You have enough clearance to get a tube around the steering if you are building your own headers. You could gain a little extra clearance for that header tube by raising the engine/trans about an inch or offsetting it to the passenger side as Volvobrynk suggested. I'm not at all familiar with that year Ford truck, is the steering box stock or has someone put in a different box? From the pictures it looks like it has cross steering?
It's kind of mounted, but it's definitely not straight and level. And yes it does have the stock steering system, with cross steer in it. After some thinking I'm realizing more and more the fe just isn't gonna fit in this truck, besides it'll be too much power for the little frame. Hopefully I'm gonna go to the junkyard soon and at least look for a halfway Decent complete 302 and t5 that will actually fit in this thing. With that said right now I'm starting to do body work to it. The driver's side cowl (is that what this is called?) Is pretty bad. It makes me think the truck has been side swiped because I already knew the door wasn't original. Here's the cowl after grinding about an 1/8 of an inch of bondo off it. I'll end up trying to get as much if the damage out as possible and fixing the small bits with a reasonable amount of bondo. I did start to do the rear of the cab, that was a pain as the back is mostly flat and it like to beer can because of that. Later this week will start the funnest of all, the roof. It's got all sorts of dings and dents in it for the truck being used as a truck. After that I'll start trying to get the front clip apart more and fixing the fenders the right way. Thanks for viewing. Hope to come back with more soon. Sorry about all the typos too, I really suck at typing on a phone.
So after 40 years it's finally come out of my garage today. It went back in the opposite way so now I have room to actually work on it, and I can push it out if need be (there's not plywood stacked against the door anymore). Here's the only photo I know of back when it ran in 1970. I know it's not a great picture but it's the only one I have. Thanks for looking. Sent from my SCH-I545 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Had a half day yesterday so I decided to screw around with the truck for a little. We had some 50 plymouth bumpers sitting around. My grandfather told me they were for the truck he liked the style more than the flat stock ones, I thought that meant he had them in the truck at some point. Big dumb fail on my part I nave no idea what was going through my head when I thought 50 plymouth bumpers would bolt straight on a 47 ford. First the bolts Don't line up. Second it's way to narrow. Not too mad though, I probably won't be putting a bumper on the front the holes in the grille/ headlight bezel (what that actually called?) Are all rotted and covered in bondo like everything else on the truck so I'll probably just cut them out fill them in and french the lights while l'm at it. I'm in love with this truck, the stance is so right. Sorry if it's not traditional, at least it's not a r*t r*d. Sent from my SCH-I545 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The stance on that truck might look nice to you but keep in mind that it is sitting on deflated air bags for the pictures. At that height it would not be drivable without being raised up on the air suspension.
I figured that looking at the pictures, wouldn't be able to drive over much with it that low, and wouldn't be able to turn very tight with how the tires are stuffed in the fenders.
An air hammer will probably mutilate the surrounding sheet metal. $20 Harbor Freight air die grinder with a cut off wheel. $20 Harbor Freight electric grinder with a cut off wheel-or grind the bolt heads off. Nut cracker Torch Fire up your air impact and blast them off (sometimes the old bolts will snap Drill and pop the bolt heads off like a rivet. Store the front clip in the backyard...
Thanks we got it apart after a while just needed a little persuasion. Sent from my SCH-I545 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No update this time, been too cold to really do anything. Basically just grinding layers and layers of bondo off of it. Anyway the reason I'm here is I wanted to ask a question. I noticed that one of the leaf spring bolts on the passenger side is really loose, probably a worn out bushing. Do I need a special tool to pull the bushing off it? I swear I read somewhere I did and had no luck getting it off. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
..I'm gonna take it I don't need a special tool then. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just kidding, are you talking about the bolt and bushing that holds the front of your leafspring ? Penetrating fluid is a good way to start. Funny though my 49 merc car doesn't use sleeves in the bushings but maybe cause its a truck, the same logic doesn't apply.
Hammers solve everything. I would think yours doesn't because it's a '49 all the parts I'm looking at are for 32-48s. Thanks for the help Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Went to Jacks junkyard today planned on getting a cast iron 4bbl intake. I ended up getting these, I found 2 t-birds with 4bbls, problem was me and my buddy went after school so we didn't exactly have enough time to look for a fe and pull the intake off, probably would have been so hard looking for one but half the roads in the yard have about a foot of water on them. Basically other than that I've been grinding bondo off it when I have Time, it currently looks like this It's the little things that count. Will hopefully progress alot once I get it to school, I dont have a welder at home or heat in my garage. There's a pot belly stove and there's asbestos board behind it, problem is there's not an air gap behind it, just an accident waiting to happen really. Thanks for looking. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pic dump/ update So now that the warmer weather has come back progress is being made, I still don't have any means of welding things right now but I've been stripping most of the truck down. Last weekend me and a few of my buddies put the flatbed back on it ( I'm still not keen on it but one of them loves it) and I've started spraying primer on it. I bought rustoelum primer in the spray cans, and I really don't like it the stuff seems to come out of the can in a stream instead of a fog or mist, it has the "comfort tip" wich isn't comfortable at all and the "spray at any angel" technology, you can't spray with the can vertical when there's still 1/2 a can left. So the primer I have sprayed on the truck looks like total ass but whatever it'll keep the thing from getting rusty and that's what matters. Lesson learned: I can't use spray paint, and should really invest in a gun. Anyway me and my buddy went up to the junkyard last weekend too and I found a old 70's pickup with a complete 390 and 4 speed in it. If I don't find a flathead or something like that in Fitchburg tomorrow I might go back there and ask about that truck. I really hope I have the thing "drivable" before while my grandfather's still alive I'd really love for him to see it move under its own power after 40 years.
Finally making progress now, today I got the engine pushed back to where it should be. It sat too far foward before. I'm going to make do with the engine mounts I have as I still have yet to buy a welder, the mount itself is a little ugly but it'll work. I'll just have to change the transmission crossmember. So with the engine pushed back I gained 2 inches of clearance between the waterpump and the radiator The steering box is a little tight but it doesn't hit so it's good for me. There's a rivet holding the boxed section for the steering box onto the frame In my way and it needs to be cut off in order for the engine to sit 100% level side to side. But other than that it looks ok. Hopefully when I grind the rivet off it still clears the steering box, if it doesn't I can probably notch the tube and sleeve it or something it should be ok. The engine sits kinda close to the steering column like I thought it would but it appears it will clear if I bend the header tube towards the front of the engine, I can worry about that when it becomes time. That's not the major problem, the "major" problem is the trans crossmember. I would like to keep the pedals under the floor just for the ease of making a clutch cable and keeping the master out of the way, they also look more original that way. Problem is if I go with a tubular crossmember like I plan to it'll basically mount right behind or on top of the crossmember that's there. I figure I could probably cave and run the brake pedal off the firewall if it comes down to it, but I'd like to keep it stock looking and keep the clutch right there so I can run a straight cable to it easily. That's how it sits on the crossmember that's currently there. This is said crossmember YEah fantastic fabrication was done in my truck, (all this work might have something to do with all the empty beer cans I found around the truck when I first started tinkering with it) Anyway back to the point, I know that I probably need about a 3 inch drop, from the measurements that I've took that seems about correct, I'd just have to adjust it to where the engine sits at the proper front to back angle (my rearend is out of a 4x4 truck so it's got a bit more pinion angle than most, I'm probably gonna have to shim that.) My plan is to get a kinda cut to size and weld on bolt on pads style like this https://m.summitracing.com/parts/trd-4559 So after all that banter I'm gonna ask a question, when it says fits ford and chevy transmissions, do all fords use the same transmission mount? Or does it mean for particular ford transmission like a c4 or a t5? Thanks for looking.
3 year or so gap in posting seems adequate. I'm gonna keep this short so i don't lose a 10 page essay trying to preview the post. The long story short I've gotten older and smarter about how cars work, and I've come to the conclusion that it is not within my budget to actually do what i originally intended with this truck and to make it fast. I had also realized i can't fit a roll cage into it with me in the truck at the same time. The chassis on these trucks are not very rigid as I'm sure most of you guys are well aware and i came to the conclusion that if i wanted to make this truck handle a mild built FE then i was going to have to hardcore modify the chassis, and i don't have the room for a frame table and don't want to twist it up like a pretzel.. So i had bit the bullet and bought an 8ba. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Breaking up the posts a bit to keep myself from screwing up again Over the summer, now that i have graduated and work fulltime and actually have the coin to mess with hot rods, i had removed the body from this pile and went and reversed the shackles in the rear. On the topic of suspension I've come to the conclusion of i want this truck low.. like really low and I'm still trying to wrap my head around how I'm going to go about doing that. I want to maintain the driveability of the truck while also having it that low. What i mean by that is i want it low but i want ground clearance as well.. hopefully i can figure out something for myself soon as I'd really like to have this on the road by the time the summer comes around to be able to go places with my buddies and their old cars. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
LOL easier to leave it a stock ride height than to lower it? @Duellym no doubt no one else is going to say this but someone needs to. To use 360FE and gasser in the same sentence is an oxy-moron. I don't doubt that you got that covered though. Could be a fun build, I'll watch
Those frame are plenty tough, that said I recall you mentioned it huh ad something else grafted on the rear of it? On the Ford Barn, there’s a. F1 frame for sale, I think they are pretty close to the 42-47 frames, I know the radiator support is the same for V8s, I’ve had a ‘42 and a ‘48.
Having built two of these trucks....without doing some major frame mods you're not going to get it super low. You may consider putting the truck back together with a dropped front axle and springs under the rear housing. That will get it down some without major frame mods and on the road quicker. As you stated, the frame isn't stiff and it wasn't designed to be. They were originally designed to flex. Keep in mind, with the factory trans. crossmember removed there is no support between the front cross member and the one at the back of the cab. You will need to add something to get that support back. Simply adding a crossmember for supporting the rear of the trans. isn't going to be adequate and the frame will flex too much. Also keep in mind there will be frame flex induced by the steering box while in use, so there needs to be something for support as close to the box as possible to keep steering flex under control. Add to that, the factory crossmember also supports the master cylinder and having just one side of the crossmember hanging there isn't adequate to keep it from flexing while braking. Best to tie that to the opposite frame rail for support and to help support both frame rails....then adding a separate crossmember to support the trans. Using the K.I.S.S. method will get your truck on the road with much less hassle, time and expense. My 2 cents....
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