In a weeks time I pulled my frame apart and got it painted. I sanded everything to get the frame as clean as possible before I sprayed the epoxy sealer. Here it is with two coats of sealer. I let the frame sit overnight then sprayed 3 coats of 2k primer over the epoxy let it sit for a few days and it's ready for final sanding with 400 grit on the DA with interface pad. Now it's ready for paint.
My paint store let me demo some Spies Hecker 8180 clear this is a high end, high quality clear. I have to say this stuff is amazing it goes on easy, drys super fast, hard to run. I made the decision to clear the cab and flow coat the rest of the parts with this clear! It's very expensive but I feel if I've come this far why not go a little further and use a good quality clear for the final step. After a cut and buff.
If you look close you may notice im using one of them fancy no air DA's! Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
I got my rear axel housing sealed and painted this week nothing fancy just a nice satin finish I'm also doing a gear change while everything is apart.
I'll be doing a step by step post in real time of the paint and body on my cab. The cab is the last piece I have left to paint so I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I cleaned and sanded everything in perpetration to spray an epoxy sealer. Like I said I'll be posting the progress In real time. I hope that way I can go a little more in depth on the process rather than trying to post pictures and narrating all at the same time. In the next few days I'll be spraying epoxy primer down first then starting the body work! Stay tuned and thanks for looking.
Id be lucky if the cab turns out as slick as the frame! [emoji3] Sent from my LG-MS870 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
No air DA's Well they do a wonderful Job!! Where may I purchase one.. Great Job on the Frame looks like a mirror..Sweet!!
Today after work I sprayed two coats of sealer down and will start body work tomorrow. Some paint and body guys like to apply filler direct to metal (DTM) an some like to spray a sealer ( DTM epoxy primer) then apply filler on top of that, I have done both methods and on something with lots of pits and pin holes I do believe filler over primer is the best method.
This evening after work I started the body work on the roof, with epoxy primer you can apply the filler directly to the primer without sanding for adhesion the filler will just cross-link into the primer, but there is a window for proper cross-link adhesion I have heard 24 hours all the way up to 5 days. Personally I wouldn't go much past two days, if you miss the window just rough the primer up with 240-180 grit paper then apply filler. I applied filler over the whole roof section and started with the air file and 36 grit paper this step moves rather quickly so pay close attention to what's high and what's low on the panel and remember a guide coat is you friend so use it at every stage of the body and primer work, krylon rust-tough satin spray paint works well for this. I ran the air file over the roof watching the guide coat, feeling how the air file "walks" over the panel meaning when it's sanding on a high spot it tends to want to pull off to the side, keep sanding in that area till it's level. Keep watching the panel closely when you see the primer/ metal start to come through stop sanding, and your ready to re apply more filler to the low spots indicated by the black guide coat. That's all for today more progress to come tomorrow.
I'm enjoying and learning a lot on this fantastic 32 build ! I'd love to do a 32 truck down the road.... 32 Spitfire http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-bootleggers-morning.993897/#post-11197036
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