I'm going to be running a mild 302 behind a champion 850 hp rated 3 core radiator in a 33 ford grill. I have room above my water pump pulley for a 14" puller but that leaves the bottom third of my radiator open. Option 2 is the pusher fan that I read blocks so much air, but I can fit the 2' larger fan up front. Can somebody tell me which would be better and how many CFM I need? There will be no hood or fenders. And if all you can say is get a shroud or run a mechanical fan, I've read that already. Thanks
A 14" puller should do the job, get a Spal Fan or Spal type fan. I used to run two 11" spal type fans on my pickup truck, one on a toggle and the other on a T stat. I only used the toggle fan when I was pulling a load and my 400+ HP motor never ran above 195. Anyway a 14" spal fan puller not pusher should cool you just fine. If you go to Summitracing.com you can ask a tech what you need CFM wise. I used to be able to find chart but I haven't got it handy today. Sorry.
i'd go with the puller too and i'd also make sure it was a Spal on my `30 coupe project i had room for a 16" puller. it's a low profile and it's motor is just above the water pump pulley get the biggest CFM that will fit , i believe spal has the dimensions on their website?
Were it my choice to make, I'd choose the 14" puller for the very reason you cited. The pushers block a fair amount of the core area. Ray
Where does high amps on a Spal come from? I've never had a problem using one. Spals will flat out blow your hat off. They don't use them on Ferrari's for nothing.
you got to use amps to get something done! i use a relay and a separate circuit breaker with HEAVY gauge wire to get the most power to the fan i think other manufacturers lie about the performance and amp draw , Spal does not in my opinion if you have an alternator you should be fine do not use a Zirco pos
post pics of your set up - thought about a short water pump (speedwaymotors.com, etc)? - why opposed to running a shroud? lots of extra turbulence around an open motor that does not direct air through radiator - what pressure rad cap planning to use, what coolant mix, what type of fan temp sensor, etc? 2500 cfm should work.
I'm running a serpentine belt so no shorty pump unless ford racing$$$ has one. The rad came with a cap, not sure what pressure it is yet. The highest CFM a 14" spal fan has is 1850. And I can't imagine an ugly shroud covering up that beautiful radiator. At least not until I've tried it without one.
1996 Ford Taurus fan. HAMB tested. HAMB apprroved. Brah, it'll **** the bumper off the car in front of you. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/ford-taurus-cooling-fan-wow.486504/
You should be fine with the 14 puller. I have a 16 puller on a champion cooling a 350 under a hood. No fan it gets hot pretty quick, 100 degrees outside and it sits a 185 no problem even at idle.
Puller fan, always. Make a shroud so it will pull from the entire surface. I agree on the Taurus fan.
I dont see a point in a shroud for a radiator with an electric fan. It has its own shroud so to speak and is still only going to pull through the fans shroud. edit. I guess if the fan was mounted to the shroud itself rather than the radiator....so yea....but still, if it works without the shroud thats just extra work for nothing.
I don't run a mechanical engine fan and rely entirely on a 14" Spal pusher (1600cfm?) fan hidden behind grill. Works for me and still going strong after 15yrs with no issues whatsoever and it gets damn hot down here where I live. Car sits on 180 all day long with a 180 degree thermostat (?) with temperature only climbing in heavy stop start traffic. It does fluctuate slightly depending on other variables. I only run run a stock 5l with headers and a 700R, nothing flash at all. I run the transmission cooler lines through bottom of radiator and also through a separate cooler as well. If running a puller fan I'd use a shroud, all the manufacturers do so why not take advantage of their R&D.
Not to my knowledge,it is well know I am not a fan,excuse the pun,of electric fans. I ran a Spal electric fan on my 1939 Ford convertible and due to it's failure my new engine was damaged and I was 400 miles from home,I came to the conclusion I would never use a electric fan again. I dislike being at a show or cruise in and having a car pull in and the driver gets out and walks away but their electric fan continues to run for the next thirty minutes,only thing I can think of is the wiring is improperly installed. I understand some builds lack room for a mechanical fan or the electric fan is a personal choice,I just figured I would go on record as to why I dislike them.HRP
Man I knew the traditional police would get me sooner or later! I got away with like three posts before they did though ha ha
HRP - That's the electric thermostat keeping it running. if you wire your fan to run through the thermocouple in the radiator rather than off a switch, it will keep the fan running until the temp comes down to a point where the thermocouple cuts the electricity. for what it's worth, I like mechanical too. And I like to get rid of those thermocouples....
A note on that oversize radiator - bigger isn't always better. For what it's worth, if you put a heater in that thing and ever drive it in the cold you're going to have a hell of a time trying to warm up the cabin. Mike
Add Volvo to the list. And yes, i would like to recommend a puller as well. i will be using one myself WITH a relay. Spal makes a kit for that too.