First off if there already is a thread about them and I somehow missed it please direct me to it and delete this thing. Thanks. OK so I have a 360 fe in my truck for those who don't know. I get that is was never built to perform like a 428 or 427. It's the same thing a a 390 besides the stroke so whatever. I don't need big power from the thing because of how much I'd need to do to the truck be for that could ever happen so I'm leaving the bottom end alone....for now. I'm going to be an idoit and try to get a dual quad or a triple duce for the thing straight off the bat and mabey a cam depending on what it's gonna sound like. My fist question is are edelbrock duals any good? I prefer blue thunder stock style ones but those a like 750 bucks. I for some reason am not all that much of a fan of edlebrock. I don't like the fact that you HAVE to use their style carbs. I rather have 2 4160's on top, like the old style. If I find a used quad cheap I'll do that. Question #2: can I use a mooneye fuel block or do I have to use a fuel log? This Is Just a Random Question I Had IT'S Not important. Thanks for the help guys. Sorry if I make my questions too complex too. I've been know to do that. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Seems like of all the intakes, FEs are the most co$tly. (could it be because of their large perimeter and difficulty in machining after casting?) My son has a few, but has been into FEs since 1978... more stuff around then. If you do vie for two fours, the Moon block does the same thing as a fuel log; a bracket on the engine would be practical, with short lines (or hose) rather than two suspended-in-air neoprene hoses from the firewall, or some inept spot... I was gifted a 360 engine by a Chevy lover. He said, "Get that Ford piece of elephant dung outa my yard, it's a gift!" I promptly lifted it into my trusty F100, brought it home and tore it apart. My son Rich ("Rich Son") brought me a set of new 406 pistons, and a std./std 390 crank...also, at the bottom of his Santa bag, Rich produced a fresh set of LeMans rods! Fast trip to Michael Angelo's machine shop, Mike sonic tested the cylinders, and bored it the big number...(some 360 blocks were high nickel, Mike said this was one) Rich helped me find a 406-spec cam, now the only thing I lack is a cool intake. Thinking three 2 bbls, as we can modify some 2bbl Holleys to suffice... I suggested that Michael Angelo rename his shop. "Sistine Marine" sounds 'appropo'... Kinda...'chapel-ish'. (Holy Motors! Did I say that?)
Carter's (edelbrocks) don't look right on an fe......I have a complete factory set up in the classifieds (manifold,carbs,linkage,fuel log) with the correct carbs (they are even the smaller, early "c" carbs) for $1500.....factory carbs (or the re-issues) work way better than 1850s. The linkage and carb set up (air bleeds, metering blocks) make the transition circuits much smoother.
I like the edelbrock heads. I'm using a tunnel wedge intage with dual holly 600cfm carbs. Stock fuel log modified for fuel to enter from the firewall end.
First off , FE's are expensive !!!! If you are looking to liven yours up a bit on a budget , Get some good headers , comp cam 270 h , and a low riser 4 barrel intake .Once you start getting into the bigger cams ,you will require head and spring work , multiple carbs are nice. but a well set up 4 barrel will give you just as much performance at less cost . I also have tri powers for sale , complete and rebuilt 1900.00 , but for that , you could buy the headers , low rise intake ,carb and cam and necessary gaskets and you will be happy with the results , A new distributor will help also ,it is 40 years old now too ,right !!! But I will sell you a tri power if you insist !!!
Just an FYI.That cast iron intake weighs about 115 pounds,so use your cherry picker to remove it for safety reasons.Good luck with your build. Good luck.Have fun.Be safe. leo
Save the duel quads for when you have more motor. The 360's pistons are too far down in the hole to really work well, especially in a heavy vehicle. What trans and rear gear? These matter depending on what you and how much you modify. I would: Make sure engine is sound and running correctly.(tune up) 1 Recurve distributor. 2 Headers and duel exhaust. 3 4 bbl. manifold and carb, even a stock cast iron 4 bbl manifold will work well. If you can find a 390 to rebuild or even a 390 crank and rods to use in your block, you can collect parts and still drive your truck. (360 and 390 have the same bore) Also check out the FE forum elsewhere on the net.
Are you using a Ford tunnel-wedge, or the Dove? BBM has one on the drawing board, but progress seems to be at a standstill... No self-respecting FE guy will use the Edelbrock. If you cant afford a proper 2x4, use a Streetmaster or Holley Street Dominator with a port match and the ears ground out of the plenum. Either one will just flat out bury any of the cast iron 4bbl intakes...
I'm using a dove. The Ford intakes are almost impossible to find. I was lucky to find a good dove that needed just a little machine work, everyone into fe's knows doves past and problems. Yea only hollys belong on top of an fe motor. I like edelbrock products just not the carbs.
Is the 360 a FT HD truck or LD truck engine, I thought the LD truck engines used a car crank but were strengthened around the bottom end, marked 105 (501) instead of 352
Picked up a 61 Starliner that the PO reworked a 391 out to 406. Best thing I can say about it is it starts and runs. Had a few problems mostly carbs on the 3x2 setup. Slowly getting the bugs out. Supposed to have a c3az-6250-aa 427 cam, 390 heads (don't recall the #'s) to go with the 3x2's. Picked up a Ford dual point dist for it also, wasn't cheap. Guess I'm just going back to when I had a 63 Ford 427. About the most fun you can have, legally. And like Harley Davidson, HD stands for "hundred dollars" Fords FE stands for "fuckin' expensive".
I will probably end up buying a Dove to replace my Porto-Sonic. I could be dead before the BBM comes to market...
Keith Kraft told me the D3TE and D4TE 360 blocks are very thick. I wont say what you do with that, it upsets the Car Craft crowd on here. I have had two 390s that were very thick. 428 blocks are real expensive nowadays...
I put a D3TE in a Deuce roadster a while ago, the bottom end has extra webbing for strength, like a cross drilled block but not drilled, also had the small snout like a car crank, the 361 and 391 big trucks had a larger diameter snout.
Adding to this: The 360 pickup truck engine was a 390 block with 352 crank and rods. Flat-top 390 car pistons were used, which end up .104 down the hole at TDC due to the shorter stroke. Gives low compression for heavy duty use, but leaves an inefficient combustion chamber. It will need to be rebuilt with proper quench distance to be a performance engine.
Most accurate post in the thread. And leads to the best bang for the buck option, as the late 390 pickup engines had 410 Mercury pistons, down in the hole like the 360. Instead of getting fixated on that "428" number, and boring a good 360/390/410 block to thin /iffy cylinder walls, just go + .030 with 390 pickup pistons (last set I got was $40, NIB) and the 3.98 crank for a strong 416. You will have good strong cylinder walls and ring seal, will cool well, and you'll never feel the difference between a 416 and 428 when you stomp on it. Stock 390/410/428 rods with ARP bolts, some C1/C4 heads with LR/CJ valves or Ebocks, some stick, and very cheap to build. WAY too much fussing over trying to bore to 4.13 when you don't need to. And the "nickle" block thing is one of those false myths that just won't die- never heard it pointed at 360's before though...
Theres this thing they do nowadays, I keep harping on it, but falls on deaf ears every time...its called "sonic testing"...I do it on pretty much every block, before I even start spending money on machine work
No deaf ears HERE! Sonic testing is good practice. Its not worth building until this procedure is performed . Unless you are just doing a engine you really dont care about. My 2 cents.
Thanks for all the help guys. I think the cylinder walls are ok in it. It was rebuilt back in the 70's and hasn't been ran ever since then it's like it's brand new on the inside. I know how expensive these things are and just as a general question would it be cheaper and to go with a y block or a flathead? I have a bunch of old flattie parts including the waterpump/mounta and a 4 speed tranny for one. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Were does this myth of FE's being heavy come from??? The FE pioneered thin wall casting techniques. A fully assembled carb to pan FE with aluminum heads and intake will be around 510 to 525 lbs. That is considerably lighter than an all iron 350 SBC, or even an iron 302. Even with iron heads, an FE with an aluminum intake will only come in at around 560 to 580 lbs. Much, Much lighter then a 460 Ford, BBC, Hemi of any variety, or Olds and Pontiacs of similar displacement. The big iron intakes give them the perception of being heavy. They aren't terribly expensive to build any more either. The machine work costs the same no matter what type of engine you are building. Barry at Survival Motorsports has high quality complete engine rebuild kits for sale at $695, and even stroker kits have come down a long ways. I put together a 390 last summer for a mid 70's F-250 using Barry's rebuild kit for about $2200 including headers, new carb, and cam and lifters. I did the valve and head work myself, and had the machining done at a local shop (boring, decking, and crank polish). The engine was built for towing with a 5000 rpm redline in mind, and dynoed at a bit over 300 Hp and 460 ft-lbs of torque. Not bad for a bit over $2K.
Yep, another myth that won't die- an average stock FE is around 620, go to aluminum intake and your at SBC weight- BBC is much heavier than an FE. And the intake does not weigh 115 lbs (SLIGHT exaggeration), an average one is about 80, CJ iron is about 88. Aluminum heads, intake and Ebock water pump gets 'em nice and trim- and not that expensive
In case you want it, I have new Offenhauser 2x4 intakes for the FE engines. I have the high rise and low rise versions. I also have the carburetor adapters and linkage to turn the carburetors 90 degrees so you can use Holley 4 barrel carbs.
Hi, thanks for the feedback. Guys. I'm not gonna go and buy a new intake just yet. That will be a little later. So once I'm 100% certain that the engine will clear the steering I will start working on it. So I'm thinking I should get on the big things first. I'm looking at stroker kits right now and was wondering who makes the best one? A cast crank will probably do fine for what I'm doing. I don't need a 700 hp motor in a light little pickup. I'm probably going to have to box the frame in order to do all of this but with the lack of anything on my frame that's not an issue. Sent from my SCH-I545 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Best bang for your buck is a simple 416, + .030 390/360/410 block with 390 pickup pistons, which are actually 410 pistons and are cheeep, with the 3.98 410/428 crank. For more, see Barry at Survival, he has some sweet pistons worked out for the SCAT rod/ crank setup, and you can do a nice 445 from the basic 4.05 block- Barry has complete balanced kits available
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