Been doing a lot of fine tuning and it seems that everything I do only makes this more fun to drive. I moved the spacers out front to give me a little more travel, straightened and adjusted location of the gas pedal- which made a world of difference in drivability, did a DIY alignment and added a smaller wheel- that got rid of the death wobble (thank God) and next is getting the back end up a shade to get a little travel out back (may need a little more out front too- again). Ben told me that the F1 steering gears had a tight spot built into them so when I aligned it I tried to get that centered right and think it worked. That and tow in seemed to help me get drivable at higher speeds. I got a '35 truck shifter that I need to drill, tap and bend a bit and new floors cut- so when that's all done the inside should be pretty well wrapped up.
CNC cut floors are certainly not traditional but it sure was easy. Saws all was just in case things didn't go well.
Put a temp gauge on today and a double bend shifter with a knob I made. And took the hood sides off. Seems to run cooler. And I think looks it too.
Autumn is in the air Gratuitous I know but that damn #tree is so pretty behind the A. #pittsburgh #fall #autumn #beauty by Bob Gild, on Flickr
Hey guys. Little update... Been messing with a few things, most significantly was putting larger rear tires on. This pretty much eliminated the death wobble I was experiencing by essentially adjusting the caster angle. I have also bought some new speed parts. One of which was an Aeroquad which I am super anxious to find a manifold for and get rebuilt. Most noticeable change was the 18" 1932 Ford wheels which I have been working on for a while now. Well finally got them and back from powder coated and tires mounted (that was an effort all on its own). Anyways, mounted them up recently and here are some photos.
Few Updates: I got my 18" 1932 Ford wire wheels on with 4.50's and 6.50's from Coker. Got those stupid sealed beams out of the headlight buckets and added a dropped headlight bar. WHAT A DIFFERENCE. We had a beautiful Sunday here so took the boys for a ride through the local park. They were ear to ear in the rumble seat. Here are some pictures I took afterwards. DSC_6263 by Bob G, on Flickr DSC_6253 by Bob G, on Flickr DSC_6261 by Bob G, on Flickr
Just saw this thread for the first time and went thru it all, it was a thoroughly enjoyable read. Beautiful car! I've been thinking of doing taking the same approach on my next project, and have been watching the auctions for 5 window A coupes. I need to finish the closed cab truck I have now first though.
Anyone know where to go for a 10 spline highway gear for a '36 rear? I see 3:25's for 6 spline and would rather not get a new open drive adapter and risk having to get a new driveshaft as well. Figured someone made a 10 spline set but haven't found yet. Any help appreciated.
Just a thought , but I made those axle brackets /ladder bars so you could put a 9 inch in there if you ever wanted to. You will get into big $$ putting highway gears in a 36 rear. Bearings and races are stupid money. I built my winters out of a 36 rear. Very pricey. Get yourself a Lincoln versai 9 inch rear (correct width) , and put any gear you want in. Sent from my SM-S920L using H.A.M.B. mobile app
How much is expensive? I really want to keep the older style rear end in there. Not loving the idea of switching to modern rear. What about swapping to another early ford rear with a more readily available 6 spline set of gears? Any other reasonable options?
What tranny do you have? I've been told a 46 ford pickup rear end has the look and the strength but is open drive, gears, again will be limited. Being a full fendered car I'd do a 9 inch. Pretty classic look and limitless gearing choices.
T5. Don't know why I am opposed to swapping, guess I like the look of the old rear. I will have to open my mind a little more to the idea.
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