can anyone tell me the approx year of this motor....it came out of a 1934 truck but looks later model to me by water spigots on the heads and location of water pumps....i know very little about these motors, but this was a good running engine when removed and I can get for $500 motor, trans and everything in between . Im hoping this is actually an insert engine instead of babbit.... little help please
I'm no expert either, but looks like it's maybe a '37 or '38. 21 stud, center outlets, water pumps on the block.
Its definitely not a 24 Stud motor...it is 21 stud and as you say the water pump location combined with the 21 Studs indicate an insert main bearing 37/38 motor. If the distributor , carb and generator, fan , manifolds are original it narrows it down to 37 early 38. Single fan-belt , oil filler and type of dipstick says car or pickup not a big truck.
As noted - looks like a 37. My only comment on "good running engine when removed" - is that this is what everybody says. Who really knows? If the person will guarantee that (and a compression check backs it up), then a fair deal. If they won't, then you're gambling a bit (and believe me, all of us Flathead guys tend to gamble!). If I was buying it and considering using it, I would pull the pan, heads and intake - check things out (bores, bearings, valves, etc..). If things look good, then replace the gaskets, put a new 49-53 style oil pump in it, etc.. You might end up with a good running engine and have less than a $1000 into it (with new water pumps, oil pump and gaskets).
I realise they are all "good running" when removed, but I am going into this knowing that it is a bit risky, but then just about any engine would be the same risks....If the compression checks out OK, I will pull the pan to check the bearings and pull the heads to look for cracks...hoping for the best of course. Been looking around on Craigslist and such and its hard to find even a core for this amount around here
Don't forget to look for cracks in the pan rails once you get the oil pan off as well. Those are the kiss of death.
Yeah he pulled motor and trans and put a 460/auto combo in its place. He said it was a good running engine at the time, so im hoping
If the Stromberg carb has a large 97 logo on the side, there's a hundred bucks right there. I don't know enough about 21 studders to place a value on the rest of it though. Some guys are really into them, and others wouldn't touch them with a ten foot breaker bar. All the intakes up to '48 will fit, but finding finned heads will cost you. All the internal tricks can be performed just like any other flathead, IF it has the insert bearings.
I don't know about your neck of the woods but a running core here goes for about 500 up. I would check for numbers that would indicate which motor it is and sell it as is where is. Someone will buy it.
'50-53 oil pump ('49 has staight cut gears, '50-up spiral) into earlier flathead: Bolt it in. pickup made for late pickup trucks, which is reproduced, is about right for '35-48. Some pans may need a baffle trimmed. Some recently made pumps are a bit wonky. I would get numbers from '49-51 manual and check side clearances and mesh, be sure end clearance is minimal, measure the part that slides into block for close fit, see if pressure relief plunger actually seats. All this stuff has been found way off in some pumps. Upstairs, early blocks have a pressure relief near front of main oil channel...you should probably shim this spring as it is likely on the light side.
Benefit is more capacity pumping, downside is that actual pump body is mounted high and so presumably saddled with greater priming and "pull" side load. Probably no real issue there, but I'd rather have had it all the way down in the soup! Ford had to move it upward to allow an oil pan that would clear '49 Ford steering linkage.
If 21 stud 221 cu inch. In my opinion worth $25 without pulling off heads. Have seen "good" running flatheads with cracked blocks. I bought a good running one that water gushed out of rear exhaust port.
I think so...being able to move a bit more oil should help a bit in an engine that has a bit of wear.
Ran a 1937 21 stud for 4 yrs. it was a spunky little engine but not nearly as powerful as a 24 stud. Hard to find speed equipment cheaply with this model. Good luck.
Picked up the engine today...its about as complete as they get...ended up paying $300 for it. I will pull the pan and heads soon to get a better look....thanks for all the responses guys...oh yeah the rope was already attached and free...what a deal
H&H is repoping sharp 21 stud finned heads. Look great! I have 2 59ab motors and 2 8ba's... I want a 21 stud bad!! Good buy! Sent from my SM-N900P using H.A.M.B. mobile app
from everything i can find this should be a 37 with insert bearings. can anyone tell me what model it is, such as 8ba, 59ab and such thanks im pretty pumped about this motor got the tranny and bellhousing. the tranny has a lever to, i believe lock out reverse type thingy this whole setup was in a 34 one ton
It's a model 78, the general '37 clasification. Heads will have PN beginning with 78 OR 79, which is the designation for slightly lower compression truck heads. FWIW, this engine was used '37-much of '38 here, and was built in England right through WWII and up to about '54. Truck trans would have three rows of shift rails on top, be astoundingly heavy, and have a little trigger on shift lever as reverse lock. Passenger trans will go right on.
Bruce thanks. I knew someone would know about this...and your right this tranny is frikin HEAVY...so a 39 tranny, and clutch assembly is a direct bolt on I assume
Yep. Any '32-48 221 or 239 trans, plus later pickups. You may need to change mount and clutch lever for your vehicle, and I think the 4-speed clutch lever is a possible donor.
Pretty sure a car torquetube won't bolt up to the truck trans, and the gear ratio is probably way out of whack for car use.
Parts exist to hook it up to car/commercial tube...I think both U-joint and clamshell are unique to that. 4 speed was an option in pickups and sometimes cars...but I don't see it as desirable for anything but farmers hauling hogs through mud. Top 3 speeds fairly normal, first really low, totally unsynchronized. Two gear worth of the innards were used for Offenhauser transmissions once!
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