Thanks guys - I've recently bought a second pair of these for another job I was doing... I'll go and change them over the next time I'm out there (which will be tonight with a bit of luck!)
Never heard of Humber cars. That one you have will make a nice cruiser once you get the repairs done and get it MOT approved. The best way to learn is just by doing it. I am sure your skills area already improved. Keep it up.
So, after finding all this lurking behind the hastily repaired inner sills, I decided I needed some help... As I've mentioned before - there aren't that repo panels available for these cars, but you can get outer sills and about the time I was contemplating doing this work, I found out about a PVHCC (Post Vintage Humber Car Club - catchy name huh?!) member who had just started remanufacturing inner sill kits with all new crossmembers... I managed to get the first set produced as far as I know The kit came with everything I needed (for this job at least) - Inner sill panels (2 parts per side) intermediate sill panels - (2 parts per side) and 4 crossmembers (2 per side). So, armed with everything I needed to replace, I started cutting out the grot! Once the outer sill was cut off - I could see what I was playing with... Looks like someone had attacked the rear of the intermediate sill with a hammer and chisel. Before cutting anything out, I made sure to brace the door apertures - Not sure if this actually did anything, but it made getting in and out of the car more entertaining while working on it! After trying to line everything up with the floor in the way, I decided to cut it out for better access... Much better access with that floor out of the way Test fitting everything... I was a bit concerned that as I was replacing someones approximation of what should have been there with what actually should have been there I would run into problems, but everything seemed to fall into place. Skipping ahead a little bit - I moved onto the intermediate sill panel. The flanges at the bottom fold together in such a way that they create a narrow box section. I don't know how this thing didn't fold in half without that arrangement in place. I'm deliberately ignoring the front inner wheel arch at the moment... They weren't mentioned on the MOT, so they can wait for now... The PVHCC has reproduction wheel arch panels, but I'll leave those for now... Certainly not the prettiest welds in the world - but I kept burning through, so I was at least getting decent penetration Rear half all welded into place - the rear was a breeze compared to the front, where I had to fabricate up all the little closing bits and pieces around the bottom of the A-pillar. Next, onto the shiny new outer sill panel...
Outer sill being mocked up... Then welded in at the B-pillar Then at the rear... With a bit of filler or lead, (something I really fancied having a go at) I think we're getting there! Door fitment is a bit of an issue - but looking back at the 'before' pictures, it seems it always was. There's no actual contact or scrubbing, but the gap is all over the place... I'll add this to the list of bodywork jobs to tackle once its structurally sound. Now, about that lead I've been meaning to try...
So, I knew I'd need to use some sort of filler around the repairs on the rear screen surround, but I was concerned about using a plastic one that might absorb water under the screen seal. I went and bought a basic lead-loading kit from Frosts, and had a go... The horizontal bits were MUCH easier to work with than the vertical bits around the C-pillar. My shoe got a good load of filler that night! By this point I think my concentration had peaked, because I kept melting off more than I was putting on, and couldn't get it to go right... So I called it a day. I've got to get some different profile files to get into all the nooks and crannies - but overall, I think it worked out pretty well for a first attempt. And hopefully I'll only need the thinnest skim of plastic filler to finish off.
Oh yeah, and somewhere along the line, this happened... Its a 3.5 litre Rover from a P6. Apparently this means it got a desirable short nosed water pump. Also came with an Edlebrock manifold, modified to fit a 38 D/Gas carb (I think they put these on Ford Essex V6's) The gearbox is a Borg Warner BW35 or 65 from the same car - but they can be found under a load of other British cars of the era too, so it should be easier to get parts for than the Humber. I've not decided when (or if) to put this in, but my thinking is that at worst, it'll be a great thing to learn to build an engine on. A refresh at least. Until then, it can sit there looking pretty. It does mean that I've got to start looking into things like rear axles (apparently Volvo 240's are the same width - and some had disc brakes too - but these are quickly becoming classics in their own right and fetch good money still) Brakes are another thing I've been thinking about. I think reconditioning the system (drums all around) will be fine for the stock engine, but if I put the V8 in, I'd like discs on the front at least... Decisions decisions...
Right, that's one side down (more or less) one to go! Time to pull it out of the garage after what seems like (and could probably be considered) an age! Slapped on some Red Oxide Primer first... Not a comfy as the bench-seat, but a hell of a lot quicker to put in place! Feels like a proper car again! So, these rear arch panels aren't original, and I don't know what they're off, so I've got to decide on whether to replace them, or make-do and mend... At the moment, I like the idea of grafting some VW camper rear arches so it looks more like a 55' Chevy... Front fender needs some attention - but I thought I'd do both sides together at the same time... Time will tell if that turns out to be a good idea. Looks surprisingly straight here... Still polishes up well too! And back in the garage... Doors off, ready for bracing. Hopefully this side will go quicker as I kinda know what I'm dealing with, but I know the subframe rail on this side is worse than the other side...
Looks like a Matt Chase, as to how far 'into', or 'back' you have to go to get to weldable metal! Great repairs, and metal forming on a stump and piece of rail track. (been there, done that!) A friend sent me an anvil (200 lb. 1860 English Wright) but I sometimes find myself using the wood stump, old habits die hard! I had a '58 Simca Arronde, did some upgrades, made my own 'Arronde G.T.!'
The work looks good so far! Sometimes the best thing to do is just dive in and tear into the problems head first. You can solve the problems as you go.
Wow so the PO did manage to make it look like he polished a turd! And you came along and saved it from near death. Awesome work on this cool old cruiser. You have certainly showed you aren't afraid to dive in and get the repairs done correctly and learn while you are at it. While reading this thread I somehow had the T Rex song "metal guru" in my head , so is it you? Your family will be able to enjoy safe cruising soon .
I really like the looks of that car. I also like that you jumped in with the lead instead of plastic. I too want to try my hand at the lead thing...I use to sweat a lot of plumbing pipe and I cant imagine it could be too different....all about temperature control and getting everything nice, clean and shiny before starting....nice work!
You, sir, have an enormous pair of brass balls! The idea of that Rover (Buick ) V8 stuffed in that little car is reminding me of the end of the cartoon "One Cab's Family", when the little boy comes out of surgery with a taxi body and a hot rod engine.
Well, It sounds like I may be one of a handful of Yanks who have ever heard of a Humber. For some reason, I've developed a fascination with British cars, as you might guess by my avatar. (It's not my car, but I'm building one that will be similar, chopped, lowered with Jag IFS and IRS.) I also have an MGTD, and an Austin 1300, both the same color as your Hawk. I used to subscribe to Practical Classics, and I was amazed by the extensive rust repair projects you lot take on in the UK. In the US, we tend to write off cars that are so badly rotted. My taxi project is teaching me to handle rust repairs like yours. If you think it's hard finding Humbers in the UK, try finding London taxi parts in the US! I'm having to hand form every repair panel for the taxi. I agree that an XJ6 sill would make an easy repair to your rear valance. I just dismantled an XJ12, and I saved the sills. One will become a rear valance on my '62 Ford pickup. The other is available, but I suspect shipping costs would be prohibitive to get it from Colorado to Norfolk! Your metal work looks great. I hope mine is as good when I finish repairing rust on the taxi!
WOW! You guys sure are great for my ego! Thanks for all the kind messages of support! I'm nearly up to date with the pics on this, so will have to drag my lazy-arse out to the garage and actually get some more done soon! Funny, I never thought of it as a small car, but I guess compared to a lot of the cars on here, its tiny! I'd like to park it next to a 55' Chevy to do a direct comparison... One day, if it ever gets to see the road, I might just do that! There's a couple over here with American V8's that I know of: (This disgustingly clean one's got a 302) I think the fords go in easier due to the distributor being at the front - makes firewall clearance easier. Not sure what this has in it, but I'm guessing because the dizzy's at the front that its another ford...
I'll echo Bob's suggestion. I'm very happy to report that I was NOT under the car when this happened. I'll never trust one of these stands again, though.
I knew someone who a lot of copies of this mag too. I was also staggered at the amount of structural rust repairs! Still, it is inspirational. I'd hate to pay someone to do that kind of work. The value of the car would be passed in a couple of days. I'm surprised that no one has commented that the front looks like a mini Checker with single headlights. Thanks for showing all the hard work. BTW be very, very pedantic with getting all the metal super shiny clean where you do lead work otherwise rust will blister up.
You beat me to the suggestion of the VW rear arch. Transit MK2 is another option but harder to find, you'll be needing rear skirts on that as well Great work so far, best of luck with the rest of it.
Thanks for the heads up on that... I think that's where I was going wrong in places... Completely underestimated how clean I needed to work. I'm going to leave the lead-work until I've finished most of the dirty grinding jobs I think...
If I could make a suggestion,Place your jack stands under the suspension to avoid body flex.A lot of your frame support is rusted and the body will flex and cause a big problem later when you try to aline the doors etc.Just my 2 cents
Very impressed with the work you have done so far. From all reports the Humber was a quality car. I don't know if they were sold in Canada but I remember seeing 2 of them around here in the sixties. One was an Imperial with Rolls Royce style interior, fitted with fold down tables on the back of the front seat, leather upholstery and polished wood instrument panel and door cappings. Did you know the Humber factory beat you to the V8? From an old article in an English vintage magazine, they showed pictures of an Imperial fitted with a Chrysler 318 cu in 230HP engine and Torqueflite auto trans. Apparently they shocked a few Jaguar owners who couldn't believe the matronly Humber 6 could see them off ha ha. This was when Chrysler was a part owner of Rootes. The story said they build 4 or 5 of them for testing purposes but never made them for sale. As far as size goes they compare to an American compact car of the early sixties like a Ford Falcon or Studebaker Lark. Slightly smaller than a standard fifties Ford or Chevrolet. I always thought they resembled the Lark in appearance. In the fifties, Rootes employed the Raymond Loewy industrial design organization and so did Studebaker. So there is a possibility the same team of stylists worked on both cars.
With all the rust buckets on the road in the US.... they be pickin' on ya.... They're actually pretty cool cars. Someone by me had a few of them years back. One was a Super Snipe, IIRC.
I love Humbers! Your front arches don't look original either btw. Did a quick photoshop with chrome reverse rims and www tyres and adjusted the arches a touch. Lower on the back (but no lower than this please - and if you add skirts, it looks ridiculously slab sided!) and the front arches with the lips slimmed right down and better fitted to the tyre. And another one I did a while back...while you've got the welder switched on like....
Reminds me of the heaps we used to fix up when the Department of Highways used to cover the roads in salt every winter. If you wanted an old car, they were all rusted out to some extent. Once I fixed a 65 Mustang for a customer, where I saved the driveshaft tunnel and part of the roof. The rest of the body was replaced. I am not kidding.
I've seen a few Humbers when I lived near Vancouver. Most were black for some reason. I think they are about the same size as a Ford Falcon, but taller. There should be room for a v-8 if you have a big enough shoe horn.
Yep, Vancouver, being in BRITISH Columbia, sure had a lot of British cars. Austins, MG's, Triumph, Jags, etc. My dad had a '59 Vauxhall Cresta. Along with my NAmerican vintage stuff I have a TR6. Keep up the great work.
James D, love what you've done with the first 'shop! You've somehow taken the awkwardness out of the hawk shape, without changing it much at all... If only my metalwork skills were up to the task! The plan at the moment is to replace the arches with reproduction panels (which I can get through the PVHCC club) once it's back on the road... Not sure if that's the best plan, but I kinda need to get some use out of it to boost the mojo!
The Jalopy Journal
