yeah i see that already...once i get it torn down and cleaned up I will put it all vack together slowly over rhe next year. I intend to have this ready o install in my tudor about a year from this november, when i retire...this will be a retirement project so i have plenty of time to outsource thanks for the info Ron
Wholeheartedly agree about the 49-53 valve guides, and just to expand on that you'll need the later valves also. The early valves have a mushroom end and require the 2 piece guides the later valves are straight stem and use a more conventional lock stup.
Do a lot of research on the later valves. Lots of places sell kits, and some use Chevy valves which are a tad longer and work well with the smaller circle of a reground cam. Also make sure to read up on drilling the lifter bosses for your punch to hold the adjustable lifters when adjusting them. And you may want to grind the top of the bosses down a bit for clearance for wrenches when adjusting. All things you need to do before the final block cleaning. And many pictures are to be found of these processes on the HAMB and in those books.
Great i am ordering the book thanks for all the info...ive been a journeyman diesel mechanic my whole life, but this flattie is a whole other ballgame.....i can use all i can get thanks guys
Got Tardells book, man, if a guy cant figure it out from this book, you just aint tryin hard enough....great read
I haven't read their new Flathead book but If you are going to put the underhead valve motor in your Model A you should probably get the other Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel book , it's on his website and maybe even Vern's series of books titled "How can I help You" http://www.verntardel.com/collections/books There are lots of other books and free online info too, like Joe Abbin's supercharged flathead book, and books from others like JWL and Ol Ron over on Ford Barn. Mike Davidson from Aussie, and Frank Oddo also have great flatmotor books out. Those are some of the more modern ones... you can also still find copies of the Ford factory manuals including the engine reconditioning manual . Check out JWLs book here http://www.flatheadv8.org/jwl.htm and there is a link to a great flathead forum at the bottom of his page.... Mac Van Pelt's site ...www.vanpelales.com too. By time you retire you will be a flathead journeyman too...your apprenticeship has just begun.. There is much more to this mysterious engine and it's cult , once you go flat you never go back.
Thanks for all the info, been all over Van Pelts site. Just checked out FlatheadV8 site and it directed me to Flatheadsrus which I promptly joined Thanks Again Ron
Well... heads are off, all studs pulled, pan off, block cleaned and all gasket surfaces block sanded. No block cracks to be found and all cleaned up well. cam lobes all look clean and crisp...gonna hone and re-ring just because...how much crank shaft end play should I have. pretty happy so far
It's a bitch getting old....001 to .0015 according to Tardel's book. That's where I set mine. Now that you got it apart I would strongly suggest you have it at least cleaned internally and the decks leveled. You need to get all the gunk out of the water passages to decrease any overheating issues. It only cost about a $100.00 around here to have it cleaned and magnafluxed but you need to bring them a bare block.
Been talking with a local flathead guy and we were discussing the best cam for a mild street driven car...How does a Winfield SU1A work for this application....this car will not be raced and my days of blowing the rear tires off are over. Costs too damn much to repair these things now days to just abuse them for no reason other than showing off to girls 1/3 MY age that are not interested in guys 3x THEIR age. Just interested in a good sounding, reliable street engine. will the SU1A work OK
You will have a good sounding engine that is reliable with the stock cam. Henry's cams are almost indestructible.
got block completely stripped can find nothing on main or rod bearings except one main shell that has " FORD USA1 62" is there any significance do these numbers?
I Mic'ed the crank journals and they are all standard so I was just curious about the markings. Funny how ford had USA1 stamped on these back in 37 long before Chevy started using it.
looking for correct piston rings. my pistons are aluminum 3 1/16 +.30 with cast number 504B, three ring similar to late model pistons they have 2 upper rings and one oil ring with spring expander. most all the ring sets for 85 hp motors with alum pistons show spring expanders under the two upper rings as well. would anyone know the correct stock number for these rings. I keep coming up with pt number 81A-6149-D but not sure these are correct
The Jalopy Journal
