Thanks guys. I've got a question. These valve covers have an opening for a twist on style breather and my breathers are the push on style. Do you think a little bit of sealant to fill up the notches should be good enough to make these work? It would go between the valve cover and the rubber gasket. Also, the valve covers don't have baffles like the ones I just took off. Does that matter? Will a little more oil get through the breather element? Or do I NEED to replace these with some twist on types? Anyways, I had to see what they look like installed. Good thing I like the color gold! Haha. With these installed there isn't much chrome left.
Thank you. Yes I had to cut out the rear lower support and relocate a 2 of the springs that connect to the front. It still feels sturdy enough with that section missing and you can't tell at all from the top. Here is a little sneak peak at some progress I made while waiting for my radiator to come in.
Yep that's what I used on my cal custom covers on my FE powered F 100. I took some 8001 3M weatherstrip adhesive on my grommets and pushed them in, cleaned up the adhesive squeeze out, let em set up, and pushed the pcv and breather in
I got my radiator today from Ricks Radiator in Azusa. It's a custom unit made by US radiator here in CA. 4 core high efficiency. I had to modify a 54 support so I could attach the radiator to the front to gain some clearance. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the hoses installed and a few last things buttoned up so I can cruise this weekend. I won't be keeping the top raw for long, but I think it looks really good with all the stainless trim up top. I used Gibbs to keep it from corroding too fast.
Bitchin' Ford! Cheated and only read the first few and last few pages. But love that jade green color and the red wheels. Gold engine aint too shabby neither! I know red wheels have been overdone, but it's cases like this that they look perfect. What the hell is it about red and green that looks so good together?? Oh yeah...Christmas. JT
Im really happy with how it came out. I never imagined it would look this good. Originally i thought i would try to repair the original and polish it the best i could. Turns out it was too rotten to use. I ordered a 4 core but the manufacturer accidentally made it a 4 core high efficiency so it worked out even better for me in the end.
nope i converted it to 12v when it still had the y block in it. Ive got a red top Ultima in the trunk now.
Great build thread and thanks for the link from instagram. I'll will be looking at this a lot as soon as my 351c is done for my 54 Victoria. - Jesse
No worries. I hope it helps you along the way. Let me know if you have any questions that aren't answered here. I have tons more pictures on my computer.
I finally got everything buttoned up for the engine. I found some radiator hoses at Napa that I had to cut to fit and I finally got the carb back from the rebuilder. It runs great over 1400 RPM but under that it is rough, and wants to die if I don't screw the idle screw way in. As soon as I let it idle around 800 where it should, it stumbles and dies, and there is some hesitation when giving it gas at that RPM. At higher RPMs it is pretty snappy. I think it may be a clogged fuel filter. I haven't replaced the one under the car since I got it. Hopefully that solves it. Any one else have any thoughts on it?
I'm shooting in the dark here... are you running too lean or too rich before your main jets or power valve kicks in? Most of my experience is with vintage motorcycle carbs but the concept is the same. You have an Edlebrock correct? I had a Edlebrock 1405 on my 1966 C10 and rebuilt that thing on the side of the road about 10 times because of very fine debris in my tank. That carb is super simple and may just need some slight adjusting. I am no carb tuner but just trying to think of some ideas for you.
Thanks. Could be but I've adjusted both idle mixture screws and it didn't seem to make too much of a difference. I also removed the old filter just after the tank thinking it was old and clogged. I still have the large filter built into the pump and one right before the carb. But, that didn't seem to make much of a difference. Maybe a little easier to start but it still idles high most of the time.
Oftentimes a partially clogged fuel filter, the engine might idle OK but choke at high speed or RPM. Connect a vacuum gauge to manifold and see what's what.
My flattie with Holley 390 was doing the same thing. Discovered two of the bolts that hold the carb to the manifold were loose allowing air to pass between them. Tightened them up and engine now runs fine.
Thanks for the tips. I double checked all my bolts. everything seems tight. I'll hook up a vacuum gauge to see what it shows. My main problem now is leaky valve covers. I just got some new rubber feel-pros that ill replace the corks with. I had the corks on the original mustang valve covers when it was being rebuilt, then my dad gave me my first set of finned valve covers that i did not like the look of so i switched to the deep finned valve covers but used the same cork gaskets. Im pretty sure thats my main problem. Also, it seems like my breathers are shooting oil out at times. Im getting blow back all over my firewall and windshield. It happened once when i hit a bump on the freeway and i could see it spray up from the engine. Couldn't see exactly where from, but the breather seems to be the culprit. I don't have baffles in the covers and could not locate the special grommets that were mentioned above and it appears the sealant i used didn't; do anything.
The Jalopy Journal
