Projects Dodge This - 1939 Dodge Southeast Gasser Build

Lol, how did that crab like the 'salad toss'?!

 

Nice - had to hit the ol Urban Dictionary for that.

 

Probably wish ya didn't look that one up.., crap needed a smoke after that!

 

Somebody please explain the "salad Toss"?

 

Umm....lmao. ...go fer it tony! Explain to Dom tossed salad!

 

http://www.vidoevo.com/yvideo.php?i...te-explaining-what-tossing-my-salad-means-lol

see if this works, advance the video to the one minute mark LMAO

 

ROFLMAO now I understand the need for the "urban dictionary"!!!!!!!!!!!
I was already wondering how inna hell you could eat a crab the way you are shown in that pic, Tony.

 

correct me if I'm wrong. when the bar is moved up a hole the wheelie bars go down. i agree with that. my question is after a bar change shouldn't the pinion angle be reset? rotating the housing up takes away the 2-3 degrees negative that should be there for a ladder bar car. restting the pinion angle back to were it should be will rotate the housing back down. putting the whellie bars back were they were to start with. isn't the idea to change the instant center only and leave the pinion angle alone? thats were the double adjustable bars have a advantage. thats the way i always did my car. i have only seen your group run at the melt down. you guys put on a great show. one of the only groups that know how to put on a entertaining show. keep up the good work.

 

Thanks for the kind words Racer -x we do try hard.
I set all of the cars I build up to where the bars can be moved with out having to change the pinion angle. (I'm not sure how Tony has his). I put 3 holes and set the car up in the middle hole with 2 1/2 degree pinion angle. Then if I move it to the top hole it will have around 1/2 degree and the bottom hole will have around 4 1/2 degree. With the adjustment I can move it around about 1/2 degree if needed. I don't like to go over 5 degree down in most cases. I ran the pro mod at 1 1/2 degree at all times but it was a 4 link so no problem no matter where the bars were.

 

thats similar to how i do mine. i just reset the pinion angle back to where it was. that way the wheelie bars stayed consistent. now there is only one change made to the car. the other variable here with bar changes comes in the way of the shocks. hitting the tire harder or with less hit may upset the shocks. a tuning aide i use is a cell phone video. shot from the side the cars suspension movements can be evaluated. the other is a go pro mounted under the car on the chassis facing to the rear. the videos can show whats going on with a close up view. you can see how the shocks are moving and how the wheelie bars are working. you can also hear and see tire slip.

 

Video is a good tuning tool and we used it a lot with the pro mod. The way I did most of my learning over the years was with the on board data recorder (not legal in SEGA). The last few years we had pick up's on everything even the shock travel. One of the things that I proved to a lot of people was that pinion angle has nothing to do with traction. It's only to keep the driveshaft from flying out of the car because of vibration. Believe it or not -0- is bad in the long run (another subject)
Anyway the only thing you and I are doing different is I adjust the wheelie bar it's self back to the height it was before the ladder bar move and you change the wheelie bar by rotating the housing back to where it was, end results is the same. I have to be able to do it quick because I'm always moving mine for different track temps. I can do it in about 4 minutes with one helper.

 

i run a xfi-2 fast box on my car. it has 23 channels to log data. i use them all. its almost like cheating compared to the old days. if the box goes bad i can rely on years of experience before there were data loggers. sounds like we do a lot of things in a similar way. i wish i lived closer it would be fun to run with your group.

 

We are not allowed any kind of data recorder on the Gassers but I did learn a lot before the gasser when I did use one. I think it was the late 90's when I could finally afford one. All of the other teams had them for several years before.

 

Quain - Alky Digger said my fuel pressure should be 60psi. I put a gauge on it last night and its reading 20 psi. JT said his is reading 20 psi also. Sent an email to Alky to see if we want to upsize the pump. He might be in Bowling Green already. Did you ever put a gauge in one of these mechanical injection setups? Just curious if 60 psi is expected or what.

 

You should have your pump flowed with your nozzles and valves. Here is my pump info. This is for alch and nitro but it gives you a look at how the pressure and volumn change with rpm

 

Wow that's a lot more pressure than JT or me are seeing ......

 

Are you talking at idle because it will be a lot more than that at high RPM.
I can tell you this you don't need a bigger pump unless you have to run a blank in the main, we used to call that using the whole pump. If you want more pressure just put in smaller Nozzles but I don't know why you would do that. Problem here is I don't think there is but a small hand full of people that has a clue how to tune injectors on Gas. I'm planning to do some barrel valve modifying to help the gas deals to idle better this winter IF I GET TIME.

 

Its not affected by RPM. From idle to 5,000 anyway its 20-25 psi. I can rev it higher tonight. The pill is 40 so its almost using the whole pump. My thinking was for fuel atomization - is there any HP to be found. Its running great. It idles nice - almost too nice - 1100 RPM like a kitten. Plugs color perfect - it doesn't fall on its face at the finish line. I hate to mess with it - BUT - if a higher pressure will dissolve the gas better (?) You weren't walking away from me that bad at Montgomery - I just need a few more ponies

 

Gas is a whole different animal. I just wanted to show how its not all about pressure. Pressure is a constantly changing thing. Rpm and volume figure into the mix also. The nozzle size and how the pop off valves are set up have a big effect on pressure

 

A air fuel gauge will help you determine how lean you can go. That way you can get all the engine has to offer. Lean is mean.

 

Need to understand how this Enderle fuel block is working - 2 lines go back to the tank - but its not supposed to have a high speed bypass. I'll take off one of the lines and plug it to see if it allows more pressure to build. It didn't look like the RPM was affecting the pressure which seems weird.
I've got an O2 gauge that I need to make a full pass with - haven't used it since March test n tune.

 

Sounds like your relief circuit is set too low. Do you have a separate relief return line going back to your tank?

 

If the main valve is shimmed correctly it should not effect the idle pressure when plugged. Its set a lot higher. I use a modified air compressor regulator. I hook up the valve to it. Then i turn up the pressure. You can hear and feel it when the poppet opens. Get a base line and shim from there. Just always use the same regulator.

 

Yes Tony the smaller nozzles or higher pressure will atomize the fuel better. If you go to a higher pressure with out going to a smaller jet you will be to rich. Gas does not need near the pressure as alky and nitro needs even more. It takes about 50% less gas as it does with the others. Check valves dictate the pressure if the pump is working like it should.
If you are down to a 40 jet your just about at the pumps limit, but I don't like over a 90 or so because then the changes become way to drastic (another subject jet surface area). Like you said it's working better than most on gas so be careful what changes you make and call me if you need to.

I will have to say that Rusty (bad Banana) has got his running and doing better than most, he don't seem to be having any problems and is running fast.

 

The Knoxville video is out!! Looks like a good one - can't watch it at work though

 

Tony. Can you draw a schematic on how you have it plumbed. There is a bunch of ways to skin this cat. ;D

 

His is real simple Rusty Idle check and main bypass check.
I might get you to help some of these guys at the track because I just don't have the time on race day and sometimes even no time the day before.
Might even let you help me on mine when I put it back on. I'm going to do some work on the barrel valve to make it work better swapping feet like we have to do with out the rookie 2 steps like other's are allowed to use. But that will be this winter when I hope to have more time.

 

There must be a spring loaded pressure relief in order for him not to build any pressure as the rpms go up. My pump has one inlet and 3 outlets. I have all 3 plumbed separate but I think you can do the same thing with 2 outlets. Sounds like he doesn't have a separate high speed relief and he has a relief built into the main bypass that is set too low ... maybe. Tony... take pics or point to pics in your thread.

 

Rusty it is real simple. After sleeping on it - until I get some O2 readings from the track making a full pass, I don't want to change anything. More pressure might be good on the main side - the idle is really dead on right now. If its starting to get lean at the high RPM, then possibly more spring pressure in the main bypass will help?

What kind of fuel pressure do you have Rusty?

 

I ran a pressure gauge on the dyno but don't currently have one on the car. I am going to rig one up so I can glance at it during the run..lol. it peaked at about 60 psi on the dyno. I agree with you that more pressure should atomize the fuel better but Quain is right that higher fuel pressure will make it run richer. I am considering trying a smaller nozzle and higher pressure just to find out but not sure when I can do it.