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Projects My 61 f100 302 aod swap !

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 61dailyf100, Feb 25, 2014.

  1. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 663

    hoop
    Member

    Use a cable for a c4 with c4 gear
     
  2. 61dailyf100
    Joined: Sep 30, 2013
    Posts: 145

    61dailyf100
    Member

    Will it work with my original speedometer ? If it does is it possible to change just the gear at the trans side to a c4 23 tooth ?


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  3. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 663

    hoop
    Member

    If you get the cable that has the right thread for the speedometer and the other end for a c4.It will work. The gear for a c4 will work. You might need a different tooth count to calibrate the speedometer.
    I forgot to mention NAPA should have a catalog showing cables by ends and lengths.
     
  4. 61dailyf100
    Joined: Sep 30, 2013
    Posts: 145

    61dailyf100
    Member

    Thanks for the help I'm going to give napa a visit, I much prefer them over the other guys as far as auto parts. The calibrating part is what has me kinda stumped.


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  5. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 663

    hoop
    Member

    If speedo is too slow you need less teeth if too fast you need more.I don`t think there are more than 23 teeth.
     
  6. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Omega speedo from speedway motors, GPS unit from Jegs, looks like an ordinary speedo, just has the little 1 inch square gps receptor on the dash
     
  7. MilvertonFF41
    Joined: Nov 3, 2015
    Posts: 70

    MilvertonFF41
    Member

    Hey I am doing the exact same thing a 1964 F100, for the placement of your engine what measurements did you use? I want to make sure I have ample clearance on the firewall.
    Thanks!
     
  8. 61dailyf100
    Joined: Sep 30, 2013
    Posts: 145

    61dailyf100
    Member

    Honestly i dont have a measurement, what I did was place the motor in with trans attached and pushed it back as far as a could to the firewall to where it would still clear my trans tunnel. Once i had it in place I used bolt on mounts and just slid them into place where i wanted them and spot welded them into place. I thought it was a hell of a lot quicker that way because once they were spot welded in I just took the motor out, drilled my holes from the inside of the frame out, and bolted it up and the motor fit like a glove.
     
  9. MilvertonFF41
    Joined: Nov 3, 2015
    Posts: 70

    MilvertonFF41
    Member

    Thanks for the information! I****ume you pushed the motor as far to the passenger side as you could? Did you have to shim behind the motor mounts to the frame? i notice with mine there will be a bit of a gap.
     
  10. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Why push it to the side? Mine is dead center in the frame
     
  11. MilvertonFF41
    Joined: Nov 3, 2015
    Posts: 70

    MilvertonFF41
    Member

    To align it with the differential, everything is off to the passenger side slightly. This is information in received from my mechanic and my father in-law who is a license mechanic and Ford Nut.
     
  12. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    I'd do a lot of measuring before I "pushed it to the passenger side as far as I could" Dead center has me doing just fine.
     

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