Technical Damn Flywheel!!!!!

I am trying to swap bellhousings. Ive removed everything except the flywheel. Bolts are out of the flywheel, but it wont break loose. Im using a harmonic balancer and steering wheel puller, and no luck. engine is a 53 235 from a chevy car. Im swapping bell housing to put a truck one on to install the motor in my 54 chevy truck.
any suggestions? I would conservatively put my time on trying to get this off at 10 hours.

 

Put some heat on it around the bolt hole circle, then wrap it a few good times with a big hammer and a block of wood. You don't have to get it real hot. Be careful it dosen't come off and hit you. JC

 

I don't understand how you could use a puller like that to pull it...if you thread bolts into the holes that the flywheel bolts go into, you'll be pulling the crank flange, not the flywheel.

I just pry them, one big bar on each side, against the bellhousing.

 

that's the picture I was looking for...

 

Kind of like picking yourself up by your boot straps

 

...or trying to get yourself out of the mud by pulling your hair....

 

Usually a bop on the back side with a decent size hammer will knock them loose but be damned careful as when they fall you have 40 something pounds with teeth coming straight down at you. I'd screw in a couple of flywheel bolts a few turns and then hit the back side of the flywheel with a 2 lb hammer. Then you can carefully unscrew the bolts and lower the flywheel.
Last time I did one of those I think I stuck a line up shaft (old input shaft) in the pilot bearing so that the flywheel wouldn't drop down and hit me in the head when I was getting it off the end of the crank. They have a mind of their own when they come off the end of the crank and along with being ready you have to be careful of face and fingers.

 

Get some U-channel and drill 3 holes. Two holes are thru holes and will bolt to the opposite pressure plate threaded holes. The 3rd hole is drilled and tapped in the middle between the two outside holes. Tap the hole for gear puller thread. Now insert the gear puller threaded rod into the middle hole. Then put some washers between threaded rod and end of crankshaft. Use this now as a flywheel puller. Tighten the threaded rod and see if the flywheel will break loose. If not, then head around crank area and tap from back of flywheel. Make sure the threaded rod has got good pressure on the crank end with washer.

 

Ill try heat. Thanks

 

I removed the 6 bolts around the center and used the holes to re-insert the bolts with the puller metal ( which has the exact pattern) and screwed in the large center punch bolt to pull it out. Are you telling me those bolts have nothing to do with flywheel removal? Ive never needed to remove a fly wheel

 

Thanks for the advise. I'll give it a try

 

Starting to sound like the bolt removal thing was not the proper course of action. LOL

 

Removing the bolts in the center area of the flywheel was exactly the proper thing to do. Those bolts hold the flywheel to the crankshaft flange. What you seem to miss here is that when you attach the puller plate with those threaded holes, you are attaching it to the crankshaft behind the flywheel, not to the flywheel, and therefore pulling against the very same crankshaft, not pulling the flywheel.

Try thinking of it this way. If you wanted to remove a wheel/tire from your car and, after removing the lug nuts, the wheel wouldn't come off the hub (this often happens with alloy wheels due to corrosion) you couldn't pull the wheel free of the hub by pulling on the lug studs, as they are part of the hub, not part of the wheel. When you put the flywheel puller bolts into the threaded holes, you were putting the bolts into the 'hub', not the wheel.

Ray

 

We all gotta start somewhere....you'll get it figured out.

 

Leave two cap screws in a few threads and hit the hell out it from the trans side hanging under the bottom. A 5 #er against wood. Turn the engine 90* and do it again and keep doing it every 90* . Don't hit the cast iron with out the wood. The flywheel is stuck on the crank purchase....

 

I

I understand now whew! Removing the bolts is correct, attaching anything to those holes is like trying to pull the crankshaft through the flywheel. All great advise, I'm on it. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

make sure you change the pilot bushing, i am guessing it got beat up. S.O.P.

 

Wack it with a mallet where it sticks out of the bell on the bottom, rotate the motor 180 degrees and repeat till it is free 5 or 6 smacks should do it.

 

Leave mayby 2 screws in there not all the way tight but by hand kinda up there in a few threads. And heat and hammer with wood. Shoud get it. I say leave them screws like 2 because that fly wheels is kinda heavy wen you under there. And after all of this if your re using the flywheel. Depend on damage coming. Maybe want to look into resurfacing it if reusing it

 

I'd expect the flywheel has broken free of the crank by now with a few bumps on the outer face.
If not, A spritz of PB Blaster or Kroil or etc at the pilot seam would help too.
Unless the engine sat out in the weather for years with the flywheel exposed to nature's worst.
http://gb.fotolibra.com/images/previews/667905-rusty-engine-on-kilve-beach.jpeg