Ok so I'm new to this forum. But not new to forums haha. I'm sure I'm posting this in the wrong location but I do need help you guys. I've picked up a Flathead engine with a bunch of parts from it. Came from my good friends Father in Law Dan. Dan's father had this truck and he ended up passing away many years ago. After his death Dan pulled the engine from the truck in hopes to do something with it. 30+ years passed and nothing ever happened then I asked about it. Here is the question... I have been doing as mush research as I can, and all I'm coming up empty handed. Like I've said I'm new to "This Forum". The heads are Stamped 8CM and the Block above the Bellhousing is stamped J1292, Any information would be greatly appreciated guys.
Heads are Mercury, '49-'53; (not positive of the specific year, but the 'type'. These Mercurys had a 3-3/16" bore, and a 4" stroke. Is the original flywheel attached? Are the clutch cover bolts evenly spaced (Borg & Beck; Mercury) or in 3 pairs of 2, the 'pairs' being about 3" apart? ('Long' drilling pattern; Ford) If the engine is a Ford, the stroke (piston travel from top dead center to bottom dead center will be 3-3/4". Bore will be the same as Mercury. Just for further i.d., take a rag soaked in gasoline, and rub the engine block where it is painted...if it's factory green, it's a Merc. Blue or red, it's a Ford. Repainted? Could be either one...
hi, welcome to the hamb! it's a late model (49-53) with that short rear end of the block. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-90to125late.htm btw the numbers you said are 'stamped' are really "cast". For an example of a stamped number, look at that rebuilder tag, the numbers on it are stamped. No biggy, it just makes communication easier if we all use the same terms to mean the same thing.
Good call on the ''Stamp and Cast''. Seems to me that's its a Late Model Ford Block and Late Model Mercury Heads according to you both. Huge Help!!! The engine was rebuild in the Late 70s according to Dan. its been punched over .030 over so far but I know its going to need to be punched over more since the pistons are stuck due to rust and weather. Whats the max you can punch it over on those late model engines? Flatheads are all new to me and I'm doing as much research and reading as I can these past few days.
Get it unstuck and apart and crack checked before you spend any money on it.If its .030 over now you have plenty of room to grow!
yikes...be careful not to crack the bores when you take the pistons out....sleeving costs more than overboring.
Yeah its really bad. I think I'm going to soak the block in diesel fuel and let it sit for a few days. Or try water and rust remover. Once I pull it out I'll hone the cyls and try and get it as smooth as possible so when I push the pistons threw it hopefully wont score the walls that bad. What do you think?
I took apart a really rusty engine once...the pistons swell up as they corrode, so they don't fit in the bore any more. If I had to do it over again, I would have tried to drill/saw/break them before trying to pound them out. I dont know how successful I would have been, though.
I have a honer. I would just do that in my garage if I could push the pistons out without doing damage but by the time you figure out you cant push them it may be to late.
I've thought about doing it that way as well. Might be safer to do it that way. Will take longer but I really don't care about the time.
Oakite hot tank would clean it well, but doubt anyone still uses it. It would take car of those aluminum pistons too...
I'll probably just use Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover. Thinking of just dumping 2-3 32oz jugs in with the motor as the engine is submerged. Probably toss all the parts in with it.
Wouldn't hurt to have another 55 drum ready with water and baking soda to neutralize the rust remover.
just dump the lot in a drum of citric acid for a week or 2 and it will get rid of the rust and should free it up as well.. never tried evaporust so can't comment on it....but citric is pretty cheap and works a treat
Measure the wide crankshaft throw. If it is 5.5 "=ford. 6''=merc. Pull the cam gear off so the stuck valves won't be binding when you try to turn it over. Even if the block is not worth saving the crank is.
Just to clarify so there's no confusion between stroke and throw. 49-53 Merc has a 4 in. stroke. 49-53 Ford has a 3 3/4 in. stroke.
Welcome aboard! Curious to see how this works out. As noted could be a Merc. I understand folks used to replace tired/shot Truck motors with the Mercury versions for the extra hp. Back when I was a kid, they did that on a truck they had on the farm I worked on. My Avatar has a Mercury engine with a serial number that does not fit the production series numbering pattern. I have been told it likely was a replacement engine used either as a 50's verion of a crate motor for warranty replacement or purchased to put in a truck? Would love to hear more on this topic.
Your are correct. Parts were mixed and matched on these engines because of the interchangeability. The oil pan on your engine looks like a Merc oil pan, but can't completely tell from the photos. Check and see if the distributor has a Merc part number. Also Mercs had a 4 bolt carburetor intake manifold while fords had 3 bolt. However, they were interchangeable. Post photos of the flywheel and see if the wear pattern is one of a 10 inch clutch, 11 inch clutch or something smaller.. Keep us posted.
I should have said counterweight. The big counterweight on a merc is 6''. Ford has a 5.5 '' counterweight.
That thing had a lot of water in it. If the cylinder walls are pitted badly you are probably looking at sleeves. I ended up driving mine out from the bottom and busted more than I could save. The pistons will be a challenge to get out alright but easier than the valves. You are going to end up cutting the valves off and driving them out the bottom as well guide and all. I would certainly try to salvage the crank and oil pump. You need to soak that thing in a 55 gallon drum of rust remover.
So a little update. Got the engine to my house and surprisingly the I take came off with trouble and after removing the gasket "more like when it fell apart". And inside was really clean. So I'm hoping when I pull the heads tomorrow the cylinders will be cleanish. I'll keep you all posted
The Jalopy Journal
