In old Dodge Brothers transmission we use 1500 weight steam cylinder oil, animal based. Some add grease to it. The ideal is when a screwdriver stands up for a few seconds.
I spun the pump with a drill and got it pumping, then later I disconnected the oil line and cranked the engine a little bit, and oil spurted out. I think the pump is working fine.
Pretty neat you were able to get all the parts unstuck, cleaned up and then got the engine to fire for a few seconds! Keep it up, you'll be driving around before too long.
Can you straighten the front axle? Ive cold pressed quite a few Ford axles on my hydraulic press and never had a problem, wondering if you can do the same on that Chevy axle? On a related note, model a front hubs bolt on to the Chevy spindles, and on mine I modified the mounts and bolted in a model A rear end so I have cheap and easy to source wheels and associated parts.
I was thinking of giving it a try, I could probably take most of the bend out of it, although it appears to be twisted back near the end, which I doubt I could fix. so it would have too much caster on one end.
They untwist pretty easily. Mine was twisted and I ran a bar through the king pin bore and come a longed it back into upright while still bolted in the frame. Crude yes, but look at what we are working with!
Interesting, I was thinking about doing something like that...good to know it works! Maybe I'll be able to fix it after all....thanks!
Hey, Jim; I also straightened a bent Ford dropped axle in a press, years ago. Got it quite straight. One kingpin end was also tweaked, that came out too. IIRC, I did it like badshifter, when it was locked down in the press. When I was going to actually use it, I still would've had it checked/set @ a big-truck shop. So, if you can't get it straight enough for your liking, there's always that option. They have the equipment to do it, most likely on the car. Do like the progress you're making. Maybe Drag Weeks' slowest competitor? . Marcus...
I have a bent truck axle I can experiment with, see if my press will do what it takes. Although I was able to bend the tube axle in my Chevy II with chain and the jack out of my press....so maybe it's not too difficult. I didn't get much done today. I played with the generator, a bit of oil and it got to where it would turn easily. I opened up the cover and looked at the brushes, they look pretty long, so they're probably fine. Then when I was setting it down next to the car to get ready to put it in, I dropped it the last few inches...and broke the cast iron pulley! dang. But like anything else on an old car, you can fix stuff...so I ground the parts down some, put it in the vise, and brazed it back together. I also ordered the hose and belt I need to get the cooling system all working. I decided to put the exhaust back on the car, I have the modified 28 manifold that now has only one port, to fit the earlier head that someone installed. I made a new gasket from some old gasket material (which I got in 1982), and also cut off the rusty end of the down tube. I will probably weld on a rusty old pipe and muffler that I have left over from another truck...I used the other muffler and some pipe to fix the Edsel last month. then I was staring at the throw out bearing retainer and arm, and looked again at the pieces of the carbon bearing. I pieced them back together, and decided I was missing one decent sized chunk, and a few small pieces. So I looked in the pile of dirt that I had swept out from under the car, and I found the bigger piece! I decided to try gluing the parts back into the retainer, and see how it works. I think it'll be ok for a little while, at least. A new carbon costs $60 at the repro places. I cleaned up the bellhousing, and I'll put the transmission back in tomorrow. Then start working on the electric system. I put a few drops of oil in the starter oil spout, and spun it around a little at the gear, it seems to turn freely.
British vehicles like Morris and Hillman - Humber (e.g. Hunter and Minx) had carbon thrust release bearings as well, They don't have the screw clamp on the outer edge, but look very much like what you have there, might be worth checking them out dimension wise..
Jim, your last post..... 2nd pic from last. Those fancy, high dollar spark plug wires? Silicone? Fat Maxx, right? I cant believe you got that thing to cough and run for a few seconds. Amazing.
Squirrel, you are having too much fun. McMaster-Carr sells carbon bars and plates if you want to try making a new TO bearing. We don't have any pics of blood yet.
I will probably buy a new TO bearing eventually...I kind of want to see if I can get it all to work first, then I'll probably take things apart and get them looking better, and spend money on some new parts. I would like to pull the engine apart somewhat, a gasket set is over $100. So for now, I'm being super cheap. I've been doing pretty good on blood, so far. This is as bad as it's got. The plug wires are kind of amazing, but then, I've seen the wires on a Model A engine, so apparently insulation was optional in the late 20s. The front two wires are cloth covered, the rear ones are just rubber, #3 is missing a few inches of insulation, but I haven't noticed it arcing yet.
I was liking the idea of making a new T O bearing, would brass work? But then you are right, if you can get the rest of the motor to run $60 is not too bad. So what do you do with it when you get it running? How about a speedster, use a hood from a 30's car for a boat tail.
I was thinking about a speedster, but probably not that fancy...either just a wood platform for the seat and gas tank, or maybe bend up some old flat sheet metal into a crude body. And I was also thinking about where the car came from, and what it wants to be in it's new life. Something about the Newman Ranch, where it sat so long.
Ha,ha Just now saw the engine firing videos! Congrats! That is awesome and very promising, Keep up the good work, I will be watching and thanks for sharing.
Man, I love this thread!!! To see an old piece of machinery come back to life touches the "cool" button inside me. I wish I were in on this but I'm there in spirit a long as you keep posting, Jim. If it were me, I'd be grinning from ear to ear.
BOAT TAIL! I'm looking at that spare carrier. I think it would make a good guide for the shape if you inverted it. I have a box of parts I think are for that engine BTW, will PM.
Plain ass COOL! Hearing it cough a little was very cool hearing it run for a few seconds was outstanding! Yeah I'm there in spirit Jim just FUN stuff right there! Joe
SEE??? Like the toga scene in Animal House. " BOAT TAIL! BOAT TAIL!! BOAT TAIL!!! " You made a comment earlier about a boat tail being outside your skills. I'm kinda doubting that..... Google "stitch & glue" boat building. The finish that some of those guys get on those boats is truly amazing.
If I do get it ready for TROG, it would likely be next October. I would want to make it look somewhat like a race car. Anyways...I put the transmission back on, and bolted the rearend up again. Then I got the hoses on and the belt on, and filled the radiator with water...it barely leaks....amazing. I filled the vacuum tank with gas, then discovered I missed a pinhole, it was leaking about a third of the way up on the side, so I drained half the gas back out of it. I decided to go ahead and see if it would run. Fiddling with the ignition, I think I fixed a loose connection? but it started and kept running! And I remembered to get video. So far, I've spent about $50 on this project. Fun!
I am really learning from your methodical approach to this and how you prioritize. I am really enjoying this thread
Congrats! Brilliant work. So cool to see it live again. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Awesome, talk about low buck. How about a 40's Hudson hood turned around backwards for a boat tail body.
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