Ok HAMB... I am considering buying a Chevy 327. The seller doesn't know a whole lot about the engine. He was going to use it for a project but ended up going a different route. He has stated the heads have been rebuilt and from the looks of it that is true. I wanted to get a better look of the bottom end. The heads were not tightened down yet so we removed them to get a looksy. As you can see in the pics there is some oily looking carbon build up on top of piston. Also a black smudge stain that is not easily removed on the cylinder wall... what would cause these two things??? Could this be why the heads were rebuilt? Other than what I noted there was a slight ridge at the top, no scoring on cylinder walls and nothing else obvious to me. Is this a sure sign to pass on engine? What else should I look for? Not looking to rebuilt it... just want a reliable runner for a project. Please help!
If there is a ridge 1/4" down from the deck, more than likely it's going to need bore work. What's he want for it? Good 327 blocks are getting hard to find.
What big deuce said--good small journal 327's are getting scarce around here--has it been bored already? Info on piston tops? Am going to look at two this week.
I see what I think is a 60 on one piston...if it is .060 its pretty near done if you cant use the current bore. Some may say they can go .080 or .090 but personally id find a block with more meat to start with...
Sounds like a small journal, based on the casting #. Can you show a pic of the combustion side of the heads? GM made a 461 head from 61-63 that was special. The bottom of the head will have a "X" marking to identify them.
The "smudge" is actually RUST. It may "burnish" itself out once the engine is running again; I'd at least take some Scotch Brite to it and see if it cleans it up. The ridge is no big deal, unless it's deep. I've done plenty of Welfare Motors; ring and bearing job after I remove the ridge. Depending on bottom end wear, the ridge could break a ring land. What heads; Power Packs or Double Humps? I happen to have an abundance of NEW parts for 327's; pistons, aftermarket rods, cranks, cam/kits, etc; if you need anything, I'll make you a killer deal. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
That engine has been burning oil. See how smooth and polished the cylinders are? No sign of crosshatch pattern. The cylinders are worn, that's why the pistons have the oily carbon buildup on top. At minimum I would run a ball hone down the bores to clean them up. I'd at least clean the pistons up and re-ring them. New bearings and seals and you might get away with a low cost rebuild.
Thanks! Will have to look at the engine moe closely. The guy is asking $500 with no carb or intake. He will throw in an aluminum bell housing for a T5 though. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Does he have a return policy if the block is un useable? I bought one and once apart found the bottom end (webbing) had been welded on.......and I have not been able to contact him!
If you wanting a reliable long block and no rebuild, the crate is your answer. 500 seems a bit much, depends on how well the heads were rebuilt and the casting #'s.
Block is 3858174 K295 Heads 3795896 Will check for X on bottom Thanks! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That sounds like a power pac head. Small valves, 1.72 intake. Major thumbs down for a revving 327. THere will NOT be an X on those heads.
The engine was definitely burning oil and if is already .060 over it won't last long if you hone and throw in some new rings. It might be worth $500 with the bell housing but I would shop around for a better core. 327s are great engine and can be made to run but you get more power and value with a 350.
Nothing is sure in this world, but death, and taxes. And the inevitable "just get a crate 350" post on any thread about 283 or 327 SBC engines....
If it has been bored once (at least) and has a ridge, it has a lot of miles since the last rebuild. Boring again is iffy at best. I think the only reasonable route is to hone the cylinders, re-ring, new rod, main and cam bearings and run it. I don't think I'd pay 500 for this one.
LOL if it was me I would not buy a crate motor, where on earth do you think the "Belly Button" statement comes from. I probably wouldn't want to give 500 for it, but that is pretty close to core price these days. I have no way to actually determine the ridge but from here it doesn't look that bad and the oily carbony piston tops could have been caused by someone soaking it down to keep it from it rusting. If the cylinders are not worn too bad sometimes you can get by using forged pistons and honing to fit. Forged pistons require greater cylinder wall clearance, only running a mic on it will tell for sure. What ever happens with it the ridge will need to come out and it is not going to be a cheap mill when all is said and done. What desirable motor is? Simple check the heads is to look on the front of them. Power pac heads have a diamond casting mark where the humps go on double hump heads. let me see if I can find a pic. I shall return. This is the front of a power pac head: and this one is humpin' to please:
You could de-ridge it and maybe get another life out of it.. Depending on what the block looks like, etc. you could be stingy and take it out to .070 and fit .080 pistons and rings to it, but really, if you're looking to buy it to put it on a stand for "when you get around to it", I'd keep looking for a better deal.
With two plus .040 pistons in each hole. Sounds good on paper, er, the cloud. I'd pass, you can find door stops cheaper than $500.
The OP stated he wanted something reliable, and not have to rebuild. Nothing against rebuilding "this" 327, just may not be in the cards for this guy. If the money was right, and there was room to clean up the bores, it would be worth pursuing; IF you wanted a rebuild project.
Cut the ridge, light hone and file to fit rings will seal it up. Won't be a 100K engine for sure and won't clean up any thrust wear in the bores, usually not too bad in a short stroke engine anyway. It's been done plenty of times, not ideal. Use of T-5 tells this will be more driver than racer. If the crank needs turned too, it's getting into not worth it territory. If the heads are desirable and rebuilt, and theres a good clean crank, and the bellhousing is what you need, maybe shoot an offer. Otherwise I'd look around more.
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