Sweet! I think am going to borrow that idea. Looks very stout indeed and a great way to save space. Thanks for sharing.
Couple coats of POR15 and the Saddle mount is done! I'm waiting for the Ch***is engineering frame mounts to arrive then on to the trans crossmember.
It was crazy how much grease and crud can ac***ulate on things. This bell housing was so gunked up it was crazy. The local speed shop baked and blasted it is now as clean as the day it left the foundry. Painted it up and it's now ready to install for engine mock up.
With the motor and trans sitting between the rails and the front crank centerline about 1.5" above the rails, the output shaft is also About 1.5" above the rails. I feel the engine is also angled too far back also but it's hard to tell because I can't drop the front suspension down to ride height with the cherry picker underneath. Does anyone think the transmission is too far above the frame rails?
This is a time where possibly it'd be really nice to have the 3/8 steel "flat" to lay in between the frame rails on top of the inner lip with a ****** mount in place or just get the bottom of a stock height mount 3/8 above a " straight edge line" placed on the inner lip. If one could keep the steel from flexing "before bracing", at that point you could do the 5 degree tilt thing to the big jimmy. Flux.
I finally figured out how to get the cherry picker out from under the car and drop down to ride height. The engine sits at a 4* angle now but the bottom to the trans mount is about 1.75" from the bottom of the frame rails. I think if i went the flat strap route it would tilt backwards at too great of an angle. I think I'm going to build the crossmember out of 2"x2"x3/16" tubing I have. I just need to find a source for some tubing to allow the exhaust to run through. I'd like the crossmember to be removable and am thinking how to mount it without putting too much stress on the thin wall frame or the mounting bolts themselves. Ch***is engineering has a cool crossmember also. gotta think.
Motor mounts done! The engine is angled back slightly too much. I'll adjust this once I have my transmission crossmember sorted out. Overall I'm pretty pleased with the the way this turned out.
When I did my Ford (using a SBC...) I fabbed up an adapter plate to go from the trans mount to the cross member. I made up a few 1/4" flat shims in case the angle was off, turns out it was fine as is. So try to build some adjustment into it. The front mounts look great.
No matter how wide you spread out the mounts to the frame it is still center mounted to the engine and if you use a center mount on the transmission the engine will try to turn over. That is why a previous poster recommended using a bellhousing that has the side mounts. If you don't have room for that you could use a torque arm to the frame. Without something to stabilize it I could see a hard launch followed by some very expensive noises.
I appreciate the concern. The saddle mounts to each side of the engine block with the bolts oriented on a horizontal axis. I'm a big boy and I did my best to push the engine side to side and the only deflection came from the suspension. It would not budge. That's not to say I'm stronger than the torque of the engine but it's mounted pretty solidly. I do have the bell housing with side mounts And will try to fabricate some bell housing stabilizers if I have room after running the exhaust as a "belt and suspenders" approach. Thanks for looking out.
My headers arrived from Clifford. After debating between Fentons and Nicsons, I decided that although not as period, these were the most functional and would most likely perform the best. Now for some Jimmy ****!!!
What will you say to him when he finds out the left front wheel comes off the ground when ever he makes a quick start?
Holy **** man. that is awesome. I can just see it all dressed in its Sunday best. please tell me with that valve cover going on there you are going to polish that rad intake. Looks so cool and those headers are actually really good looking. I have always gone back and forth on tube headers on inliners and I am now leaning that direction for my own chevy. now hurry up and get more done I need more updates!!!
The intake is going to be polished for sure. There's a guy on the Hamb rolodex who does really nice polishing work. I'm sending this guy out for sure when the time is right. I hope to build the trans crossmember this weekend.
Devin, Since you are building a street engine, you need to weld a half pipe of aluminum to the underside of the intake manifold, plug and tap the ends for a heater loop. If you were using Fenton exhaust manifolds, you could have plumbed exhaust to the underside of the McGurk. Truly, Engine coolant is by far a better way to go. By welding a pipe the entire length of the manifold you will be ***ured of balanced heating and keeping gas vapor in suspension into all ports. Cut a 2"x 3/16 wall aluminum pipe in half and bend and shaped to the manifolds underside. Once finished and polished, the mod will be nearly unnoticeable to all but the most observant when installed. Study the attached photo of the Ellis manifold. You will notice considerably better drivability with manifold heat. Best regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
Hey Telefunkn, Thank you for the advice. Your engine bay is beautiful! I hope mine looks that nice when the time comes around.
So I built my frame mounts for the engine and the engine and transmission as they sat a little high and would have required an excessively high transmission output shaft angle. I started another thread to get some advice: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...mounting-height-in-relation-to-frame.1027600/ I wound up building a new set of mounts which really helped out. I think the transmission is still a bit high, but since My floor is nonexistent, I'll just modify it as I build a new one anyways. I'm pretty sure it's not way out of whack, most likely a little tight.
I'm waiting for some supplies to build a transmission crossmember. The one I bought will have too much drop. I decided to build a simple bracket to mount the clutch slave cylinder. I'm going to use a Jeep slave. I have one on my roadster, it's easily available and works great. I may have to resort to a pull type slave if this one winds up being too close to the exhaust. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
So the engine and transmission are officially mounted now and I began fabricating the front half of the exhaust. The headers from Clifford run really close to the oil pan rail. I'm a bit disappointed. I ****ed the collector to the left and have about 3/16" clearance may need to dimple the tube a little. I will also definitely need heat shields to protect the clutch slave cylinder. It's frickin' tight down here! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Inching forward. Got the X-pipe fitted and some Porter mufflers on the way. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It's been about a month since I've been able to get to work on this car. This morning I finished fitting and tacking in the exhaust tubing up to the rear axle. It's not perfect but I'm pretty happy overall with how it has come out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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