Technical Attempt at narrowing my 9", where'd I go wrong?

Use a press, and if necessary, heat, to get the axle tube back into alignment. You'll be amazed how little effort it takes to move the tube.

 

I prefer to heat shrink as opposed to the press. The way I look at it is that when you weld something, the heat from the weld shrinks the metal were you weld it and when you use a press, your trying to stretch the weld back out to match the other side. Also on a piece of pipe or tubing, you run the risk of collapsing or flattening the pipe or tube. If you take your time and use a number one tip and heat a area the size of a dime to start with and let it cool naturally and then compare with your starting measurement, you can easily get it exactly were you what it. It may take several heating sessions but you'll soon get the hang of it. One thing to keep in mind, when you heat it, it will expand and seem to make it worse until it cools.

 

I meant my 4 welding joints. Not the pucks

 

I think I may try the press first and see how it feels. If it's too much effort, I will go for the welding method. As far as the welding method, do I run the bead parallel or perpendicular to the tube?

Also, as far as welding my brackets, could I leave the mitler kit installed and completely weld the brackets and let it cool? Will the mitler bar keep it from warping?

I guess I'm trying to avoid welding my brackets on until last because if I can't get my housing straight, then at least I can still use my brackets on a new housing.

 

This is another one of those jobs where too much thinking doesn't help solve the myriad of questions. A rear axle is one of the most "digestive" parts in the car, as in it takes things to be way, Way, WAY off before it causes harm. Am I the only one who's never had an axle housing move after I welded the brackets on? Seems like it sometimes. Back brace? That's a different story and it will move if not fit to perfection then skip welded all over until it's done. Narrowing? The bar locates the bearing ends. I've had housings that were nice and straight, cut em down to my size, spin the ends in a lathe to help locate em on the tubes, add a little bevel to it, nothing but "ta daa" moments for more than a decade. Then I've seen housings come to me to be repaired even after they were all fixtured up and measured for hours on end (no pun intended). If it's going to be "off" just a wee bit make sure it's in a toe in position to the front so that under heavy loads it's working straight. That's more racer shit than street cars but it makes sense. The last one I "fixed" from another shop ended up being off by more than 3/16" and the axles wouldn't fit. Cut the ends, lined em up, welded it together, axles dropped in nice and easy. He went on to spray 2 stages of 'juice' with a 540 and twin Dominators, in a full sized 70 Chevy pickup no less that ran low 8 second ETs.

As always, your results may vary, tax n title extra, no purchase necessary, void where prohibited, see your retailer...

 

Sorry for the late update guys.

I ended up cutting the welds where the tubes go into the center of the housing. Got my jog in place and got everything aligned pretty good. I ended up welding the bearings housings first then welded the inside.

Now I have to get my brackets done and weld those on. If the tubes move some, I'm going to try the heat and shrink method to try and bring it back in line.

Thoughts?

 

I'm not sure there are any thoughts about it that haven't been expressed previously.

 

Yeah good point. Haha

I guess I was seeking advice on my process up to now.

I also forgot to add in my previous post that after I welded and the housing cooled completely, I removed the outer pucks on the housing to see the fitment. One side slid in like butter, the other side takes a little effort but still goes in. That's what I was looking for thoughts on.

 

Beg barrow or steal a factory 9" housing and fit your jig up into that for a comparison and feel of what's close enough to work.

 

Well, I sure feel better about mine [winters Q.C.] now. I have one axle slip in with no drama but I had to use a 4X4 and hammer to tap the other one in. I guess if it goes in, it's gonna be ok. Whew!.

 

Rocky
Look at it this way:
After putting some road miles on it; it will do one of two things, it will either get looser or tighter, how's your luck been.

 

If it's a TAP in, you'll be OK. If it takes a bunch of 'taps' or the taps get very heavy, expect bearing failure.... DAMHIKIJK...

 

A lot of years ago I went around to all the local wrecking yards and bought up 10, 9" Ford rears, this was when I seen the "pile" of stock housing Currie was accumulating. It would only be a short time before they hit my "small" out of the way town. I disassembled the housings as needed and before altering to suit I slid my jig into them, you would be surprised (well some of you) at how far off center the stock axle bearing ends were from the factory, from thousands of miles of driving or tweaked from an accident and were still in use. If you have a true 2" or better tool steel bar, 4 bearing pucks AND end clamps to keep the pucks square in end housings than what you have pictured is true center. To some, maybe most, it is cosmetically, visually un attractive BUT still in line and true. It's obviously not acceptable to you so you are going the extra effort to make it look the best it could be. If you ever want to be humbled have a 4 way wheel alignment done................................
JMO

 

How long have you been running it?

Not too surprising. I just don't want to have to yank it out in a year because I keep burning axle bearings up. I think I'm going to keep on rolling with the brackets and see where I end up. If it moves more, then I'll try the heat and shrink method.

 

Remember drain plugs are your friend, can't tell by the pic's if you got one.
Just blew your first pic up, looks like you already have one?
And just another note to ponder I don't install my bar dry, always coat it with anything handy that will lubricate and keep welding flash off the surface. Saves beating the hell out of my bar to remove...................................

 

I'm gonna guess a line up bar won't fit perfectly in a LOT of stock rear ends. And a little misalignment won't load the bearings like the weight of a car (especially on bumps) will. I think tire wear will be more of a concern than bearing failure will.

But some of us get pretty picky about stuff like this.

 

No I actually don't have one but its on my list.

 

X3 I have also done this with driveshafts.