I have been reading tons of info on converting mechanical brakes to hydraulic in numerous threads, but every one lists a ton of parts needed including backing plates, spindles, etc. Several times I have sat and looked at my existing 1936 backing plates and thought to myself " why can you put a new wheel cylinder in an existing backing plate?" Is this simply crazy talk, or has someone already done something like this? With a little fabrication to maybe put in an adjuster and grinding off old rivets, it seems like a fairly easy process. Am I way out there???
I think I have heard of this being done a couple of times. If it was easy it would have been done many times instead of just using later hydraulic assemblies. It always struck me as something that was being done by someone with way too much time on their hands. Another thing is that something like brakes is not a place to experiment with new ideas, especially when there is a simple solution that has been proven by use over many years. It would be less expensive to just buy the hydraulic brake parts you need. I think ANSEN used to make a kit to convert Model A mechanical backing plates to hydraulics in the fifties. My thought is that you are way out there and should come back. Charlie Stephens
I've seen a couple of EARLY conversions, as the V8 'sets' were beginning to catch on, and the price was rising (demand) One older gent had a '36 roadster ('survivor') in his showroom, he'd bought it during World War ll...a previous owner had simply drilled and fit wheel cylinders and relined (riveted) linings, with the E-brake brackets/arms. Eccentric adjusters were there, too. Backing plates were DEFINITELY the original mechanicals, just like on my original '36. As for 'that was then'... There are threads, I just read one 2 months ago.
Looks like they also flipped the plates so the original adjuster is on the bottom. Wonder if they used a "floater" conversion in there.
You learn from doing stuff that has no instructions...lol I never did a Ford mech to hyd, but I just did a weird one and the freaking thing works awesome so far. The only reason I post this is to inspire others to try stuff. Please don't give me the "don't experiment with brakes" because you ain't me,...or.... stay out of my way Late 20s to early 30 Midland Steel Company, made "Steel-Draulic" brakes. These are armored flex cables at 4 wheels, run by solid rods. They are the first? self-energizing brake. They are one large circular internal band shoe. 12" drum x 1-3/4" shoe width My antique car had 4.73 ratio which is good for 40mph. I could not change the chuck, so I used a 65 Mustang 8"..... so that I can go 55-60 ... (that has 10" drums)....... I needed to keep the fancy wire wheels and the drums which show, so I had to convert the fronts to hyd. The Midland backing plates have a raised center, and there is almost no room for a cylinder. The only one that I could fit with a small bolting pad, was 80s Honda rear cyls which are 3/4" bore... ( I could not "make more room", because look at the backside showing how close the new cyl is to the king pin boss on spindle) I was sure 3/4" would not work, but no choice except try it. The car stops better/faster w/ less pedal pressure than my 32 ford with 40s fronts and 55 Olds rear brakes. I had to buy an old pair of "Steel-Draulic" brake adjusting pliers on ebay. less than 20 shipped
Very cool! It has always seemed to me that you round up a bunch of different parts from different years and pay tons of money to essentially change to a modern shoe and drill a couple holes... My gears are definitely turning and as it sits right now it has to be a better move than the mechanical brakes.
Search "Ansen" brakes. Theere's a fair amount of info (all years from '28-38 were converted) bu not really enough pics. There seem to be few surviving examples.
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