mounted radiator, grill shell, headlights, clutch slave, filed-sanded-oiled steering wheel, and generally fiddled and finessed some other little stuff.. down to plumbing and wiring, including locating battery box..
thanks! it's from Sacramento Speed Shop, I did some searching for cloth wire kits here and they got the most positive reviews.
Looks awesome Paul! A question for you... if I recall correctly, your radiator is sitting on top of the crossmember (28/29 style). Could you give me a measurement from your firewall to the back edge of your crossmember? I'm in the planning stages of a Olds 303 in a Model A, and was just fiddling around with ideas on making the motor fit without whacking out the firewall. A rough measurement on yours would help with scheming and planning. Thanks!
I measure 30" from upturned flange at the back of front crossmember to forward extent of firewall (the upper "bulge" on the '26-'27) I don't remember exactly how much I extended the frame but it must have been at least 4-1/2" you could go with less than the 30" if you relieve the upturned flange and crowd the distributor a little. best just to assemble your engine with lower pulley/damper, fan and distributor and measure.
Thank you very much Paul. I will be doing exactly that when the time comes. Since my garage is still cluttered, I've been doing a lot more planning and drawing right now. I appreciate the measurements.
Cut a hole in the floor for battery access, gotta build a tray and hang it from the frame to set the battery in, and a lid to cover it up.
From the angle, it looks like your battery is going to sit right where the transmission is. I know that's not the case, but it gave me a laugh when I saw it. I keep coming back to look at this picture. The gauges look so good.
fabbed and hung the battery "tray", made a door for it, still need to make a hold down for the battery and some kind of latch for the door and that will be done.
I have heard that one, and "slicker than gooseshit on wet grass" but the cat shit one is new to me...
Now THAT look in the first photo is what all '26-'27 T roadsters should have. It is the Lobeck "look" for T's. I haven't seen Olds dimpled valve covers in 52 years.
plumbing almost done, just a two more lines to run and clips to hold them all in place. still need to wire at least the minimum, fuel pump, starter, charging, brake lights.. need to add fluids, cotter pins, grease... legal part is done, already had registration taken care of but it is now also insured. just might make it to Goodguys Northwest in Puyallup Saturday
Geez, what's the hold up there....been about a week since starting with a unpainted bare chassis.. (I feel...um...er..."inadequate" ) lol
well she runs, but a long series of minor setbacks means it will not make it to the show tomorrow. just about every fluid had a minor leak, brakes, fuel, water and steering box. all easy fixes but each one meant a trip to the parts store and a break in rhythm. the bigger setback will take a little more time to put right, the clutch will not disengage the transmission. I am 99.9% sure the transmission input shaft is up against the pilot bushing, gotta pull the engine and check, easy fix, just chamfer the pilot a little but it's a three hour job.. that and I still don't have a throttle pedal.. or a clear plan on how that will look. I should also adjust the valves, carburetors and timing
LaSalle trans, and 50 bell, right? Seems very strange the bushing could touch the spline part of the input? that 32 3w I did w/early Cad331/37 buick case with olds gears...and same master and a 60-62 slave...I set it all up dry,(no lines built) but the guys who put the final build together could not get the clutch to work. A few phone calls later, and they had the slave at 1/2 way when they set the adj rod. So, it simply could not travel enough. They opened the bleeder, then ran the adjuster rod back out to where I had set it, and all was good. (but I know this isn't your first pony ride with this type setup) LOL other than that, have you bumped it over with starter while in first gear with clutch pedal pressed? Stuck real hard, it will lurch hard. a slight touching at the bushing, it should turn over without a lurch .
The LaSalle input shaft is about a quarter inch longer than the '50 Olds input shaft. I measured and checked during assembly and it looked like it would be ok but.. it will go through the gears smoothly with engine off, and grind and no go running. lurches if in first and hit starter but not so much in higher gears. Pedal feels good, looks like plenty of throw..
As one who has missed self imposed deadlines, I feel your pain and disappointment. But sonofabitchman, that has been some incredible progress in short time. and that car is pretty killer.
Sound good Paul, but yes, there is at least one or two that are loose. I am out of the country for 5 weeks, when I get back, I need to degree my E-3, I am particularly curious to see the duration @050, and double check the LSA. Pete1 that ground the cam and I are both expecting it's around 232-234 @ 050, but I saw where a guy had Cam Dr.ed an E-2 for a Y-block, and the LSA was narrower than what the valve events printed in the catalog indicated. I hope the olds cam is the same, according to the published valve events in the 1960 catalog, it's supposed to be on 109, I wouldn't mind if it was a little narrower.
Despite the setback Paul which we all know lurks in all our builds the roadster is awesome and the Olds sounds killer. Got my fix for the week listening to the rocket running............super progress, an inspiration to all of us slow guys
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