Hey guys, quick question: I can think of about half a dozen ways to bend the ridges/ribs required to make a floorboard into a piece of sheet metal, for strength, rigidity, and lack of wobbly feel, But I can't think of one that wouldn't blow the entire piece of sheet metal up, as the ridges were pressed down into it, and I certainly can't think of a method that would do it "pretty." Is there some kind of tool that I am on aware of, or perhaps some truck that's been used in the trade for years? Thanks Drew Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
hey Drew, lot's of these out there. harbor freight makes one too. http://www.eastwood.com/economy-bead-roller-kit-with-mandrels.html
On the cheap? If you stay away from edges.. Two strips of 1/4 to 3/8 flat stock moved apart an inch or so, under the sheetmetal, and set up so they can't spread apart. Practice with width between the strips. Then lay 1/2 or much larger solid round stock on top, in the center, but not too long, and hit with hand sledge. They don't need to be very deep to prevent oil-canning I don't run the beads very long, as that causes the sheet to deform even more, just like a bead roller can. You can run the 6" or 8" long beads in a longer line, but leave space in between. pretty? ...practice,practice....and don't forget that Martha Stewart won't be able to see them from her house. .
My version of pretty is not feeling them through the floor ;-) This is great guys. Thanks It's just my preference but i like to invest in tools rather than parts so I can get this bead roller for the cost of a floor pan or two, then I am equipped. Much obliged gents Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Drew, on the "cheaper" bead rollers you might experience some deflection when used on thicker metal. there are threads here about reenforcing them.
Somebody on here did a sweet tech piece years ago about tacking pieces of round bar to the underside of flat sheet, then laying it on a concrete floor and pounding on it with a plastic dead blow hammer until the ribs showed through. I tried it and it worked great, bought a cheapie dead blow hammer for like 7 bucks and have made several floor pans with this method. Bead roller is a great tool and probably well worth the investment but I'm cheap and not sure if I'd use it enough to make it worthwhile, and was quite impressed with how nice the cave man method worked.
Yea just saw its $179. One day when I have the space I plan to have all the metal working tools to make panels but until then I have to decide... In this case, one panel shipped is probly $150. I might just have to get the tool now cause money is always right and being able to make floor plans will come in handy. Although I already own a rubber hammer..... That method doesn't how the whole piece of sheet? Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Hopped-up horrible fright bead roller. You probably don't need to use 3" x 3" x 3/8" wall, but that's what I had.
Guys absolutely amazing. Immaculate. Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Hay Guys, I like what I see done here. It's kind of the Factory way it's always been done. Personally I have issues with ridges rolled in being you can always see them in the Carpet. For as long as I can remember I have built smooth floor pans. To keep the Oil Can out and give a good place to mount seats and stuff I use either a Hat channel or a V channel and spot/plug weld them to the under side. The weld flange will take seat mounts just fine. Body bolts are below the floor and capped with snap in plugs and the Carpet is Smooth as a Baby's behind. Just a different twist of the Lemon. The Wizzard
That's brilliant! I chuckled when I read "flat piece of concrete" because I have an asphalt garage floor. I built my car in a dirt/asphalt One car unheated garage. The lack of concrete won't slow me down though, this seems like a great method. While we're on the topic… One of my concerns is stripping in preparing the metal around the area for welding… Not only is it difficult to do because some of it is under the car not easily accessed, what is the material they used to undercoat from the factory harmful? I just worry because I have a baby and I don't want to be tracking crap in the house… Specially if there's asbestos. As careful as we may be, I just want to know what I'm up against. Lastly, what do you guys coat underneath and inside the car with? Rustoleum makes a grill paint that seems to stick to just about anything… Is extremely heat resistant… And is cheap and easy to find. Question is, does it do a good job of protecting metal under a car. Obviously I don't drive my car in the snow, but would like to avoid things like POR 15 if possible due to price and local availability Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Hey as this may be a silly question I am assuming yes but those welds (in the flat floor photo) are finished ? Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
I'd love to hear more about this process. Especially the finishing work such as paints and sealers and welds Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
I understand that the bead goes down not up. I've found if they aren't filled with something they do show over time. It's just another way to do the same job without a bead roller. Yes knocking the top off the weld with an 80 grit then follow up with a Red scotch bright makes them vanish. Using some kind of a seam sealer is a real good idea no matter how you do it. The Wizzard
Not floors, but... Lower for a '29A, to make a little more room for a Y-Block. I made the X's to look somewhat like later Fords. Whenever possible, I like to mimic factory designs. Lower for a '29A, to make a little more room for a 392 Hemi.
I have not had any issues, but then again I fill mine with sound dampener, cover that with sound dampener, cover that with 1/4" closed cell foam, covered with 1/4" mass-loaded vinyl, covered with 1/8" conventional carpet padding, then put the carpet in.
The car came in with that aftermarket upper cowl, and what was left of a stock lower, which had been rather brutally cut with a torch. I have done them with and without the lip. Something about it just makes it look like it belongs.
Heres a floor for a restoration project, I used a rivet gun with a plastic head to form the sheetmetal into the pattern. You can see how to assemble something to whatever shapes & size you want - I had to make an exact copy and the features are all different sizes so that is why the 'form' is screwed to the plate. Once you develop your pattern you can make exact copies and repeating shapes. The thing to plan for is clamping the metal firmly around the perimeter so that you stretch the metal into shape, you don't want it pulling from other areas to create waves in the metals.
Wow guys all very, very nice work. Maybe I missed it (apologies if I did) but what is said modification to bead roller ? Also, I'd like to hear a little bit about finishing. I am assuming the welds must be fully filled in - not just stitched - but I always wondered what was done to prevent rust in the tiny areas where patch patch panes meet and overlap and such.... Is it just primed and painted like regular body work? And what about underneath ? Member: Rochester Street Rods - Est. 1970 http://www.rochesterstreetrods.org CrossMembers Car Club - Hebrews 12:2 http://www.crossmemberscc.com
Over on the AACA website there is a poster who is doing the whole bottom part of a 1940 Packard convertible. Really, the whole bottom 12". Anyway, he has documented his work on this project and the results are absolutely outstanding. The poster is "the astronaut". Look for his discussion thread with loads of photos. Much to learn from him.
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