The canister oil filter is easily replaced with an adapter fitting so you can use the spin on type filter. Sometimes you need extra clearance around the header collector and the short filter will clear. Also the oil filter on the 265 was a remote can and bracket that mounted to the water outlet on the intake manifold with feed lines from a drilled hole in the passenger side lifter gallery on the front of the engine about the 10 o'clock position looking at the timing cover.
1967. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/when-did-chevy-start-using-spin-on-oil-filters.299195/
The remote oil filter on the 265 was for 1955 only. 1956 and 57 had the typical canister on the bottom of the engine.
Strange about the sutter, because I just noticed the same situation on the thread about socal back in the days.
no need to convert to the spin on filter unless you need the room. the canisters are rugged, good looking and period correct.
Yep, what tb33anda3rd said. Chrome or painted like stock, they really make an early small block look right. I kinda had to search for a while to find one for my old SBC. Also the center piece that bolts to the block with two bolts. It seems the swap meet guys weren't bringing them out 'cause there wasn't much call for 'em. There were also different length canisters IIRC, passenger car and truck?
Many consider the canister superior...it was finer mesh, with a bigger element to allow sufficient flow. In '68 and for a few years after Chevy used the canister for Taxi, Police, and big truck engines, with a special aluminum adapter for the late block. Some of the period hop-up experts strongly recommend that conversion for engines not using remote double filters...more filtering, less time on bypass.
Just picked up the block. Will give it a good look later this weekend. Dropping my son off at college tomorrow. He's starting the auto restoration program at Penn College.
I always wondered what these 1/4-20 screws were for. Highlighted with red circles. Two on each side of the block near the deck? Jack E/NJ
They're for spark plug wire routing/shielding.https://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.as...Category=9ba48bf0-5af4-44ba-ace6-3582916d732d
Was able to take a few pix tonight. Any help you could provide with more information about this block is greatly appreciated! Casting number is 3731548. Sorry it got chopped off in the pic.
On the front passenger side of the block, on the part of the deck that still shows when the head is on, is stamped info that will tell you a lot more about where the engine was made and what it came in. If the block has been decked in the past, however, that info may be gone.
Thanks so much. My son and I knew the H.A.M.B would come through! The May 3 assembly date makes sense given the April 25 casting date. Any thoughts regarding the other block info in the pix?
Raise your hand if you have ever dumped half of your newly replaced oil on the ground because of those antiquated POS canisters. Hello, anybody, ok, I know, it was my fault that I missed the old, hard o-ring and stacked a new one on top of it. DOH! In my defense, I was only 16.
DDDenny; And speaking of canister mishaps; I did a lube, oil and filter on a customer's '58 Impala at the gas station I worked at. At the next oil change I pulled the canister - no filter element. I had forgotten to put in the filter during the previous service. Shh, no one knows about this but you and I. I was 16.
You might want to get that block sonic checked to be sure how the walls are for thickness, since the rust can eat them away ? You just never know how good an old block is ? DND
Thanks for the heads up. May be a while before I plan to use it but will be sure it gets a clean bill of health first!
Just in case you didn't already know, the 283 had a rope rear main seal through '58. Put a neoprene seal in there and you have a big leak. Use the rope seal and you'll just have a small leak.
Good to know EZ. We will need all the education and counsel we can get as this will be our first build.
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