Projects Model a coupe banger ideas

I just drug home a stock 1930 model A coupe. Going to leave the motor stock because it runs great. I have 35 ford 16 inch wheels and need to buy tires. I would just like make it look a little less stock but not spend much on it. Any ideas would be great along with what tire size and brand I should use with the 16 inch wheels


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A set of vintage sealed beam headlights on the headlight stockbar-

 

700/16 and 5.50/16 bias plys, lower the front a hair and pull the bumpers.


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Stock axle with low spring or 32-36 axle, 32-34 perches and spindles with mechanical brakes

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Thanks for suggestions want to order tires this week so that will be the first thing then I'll lower it a little and remove the bumpers


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Look up Ron Brown's thread on lowering the suspension. And you CAN leave the mechanical brakes - they work fine if they're set up right.
Wires and 6.50 x 16 tires
lower the headlights
PLEASE - LEAVE THE FENDERS ON, AND DON'T do a radical CHOP !! ( or it will look like every other coupe in the world) 3"MAX, IMO
If you decide you need more go-power, that little banger can be massaged to almost match an early stock V-8 - Banger guys on here with LOTS of info.

Take your time deciding, and have fun.

Congrats on your new ride-I love Model A's, I've had 6 of them (3 coupes- and 2 roadsters and a 2 door sedan!!)

 

I'm planing on leaving it with the 4 banger because it was rebuilt. I like the bangers but I do want to lower it an leave the mechanical brakes. So I will look at the thread because I'm wanting it too stay pretty stock other than ride height, tires and wheels and maybe remove the bumpers. It's too nice too cut up in my opinion.


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Search some of my posts / threads.

750 rears
600 fronts
Reverse eye the f spring
Consider a downdraft and a v8 carb
Pull the bumpers

 

Also go with a high compression head if you want to go a little faster

 

My avatar started with a stock A but found out that I was an impediment to traffic. A 7:1 high compression head and a B cam took care of that but the A transmission is really really primitive. I installed a 84-87 F150 3speed with overdrive and it is wonderful! I can shift into any gear at any time. Quick. Smooth. Instant. Of course I used self energizing, self adjusting Bendix brakes. Then I made up a stainless steel manifold so that I can use the best carburetors in the world, the SU. For tires,I wanted a narrow tire that fit the 1935 wire wheels. The tires I use are only one inch wider than stock but are steel belted radials. Bias ply may work for you if you only drive a toy once a month but I drive often and thru 4 states. 195/80-16 These were used on the all electric RAV4 cars

 

I should mention, going 12V means I can give and receive a jump start. A one wire alternator puts a stop to all the 6v ignition problems and allows electronic ignition. A/C can be added. A dropped axle and lowering the rear makes my car look right. This car is now ready for daily driving anywhere anytime
edit: my tires cost less than stock tires and tubes

 

Here is a shot I found on a thread showing a modification for mechanical brakes and a drop axle.

 

Thanks for the ideas the mechanical brake with the drop axle is a wild idea that I will have to think about


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Look into flathead teds kit if you stay with the mech brakes.


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While you're thinking about it, think about where the shocks go. There are lots of A's running around with no shocks, but see if you can find somebody with a nice restored stocker and go for a ride. You'll be "shocked" at the difference in the way the car handles. Many people think they are a crutch, and they are, but the steering damper makes a difference too. Good Luck.

 

Here is the thread I got the mechanical brake picture from. In this thread he shows shock mounts to work with the mechanical brakes. they aren't Ford shocks but they could mount the same.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-a-coupe-build-up.977072/page-3#post-11647677
Here is how I set up my shocks on my coupe project. not quite the same but it may give you some idea where to start on them.

 

Okie Joe at Joe's speed shop will drop and stretch your axle so you can use the stock mechanical brakes without doing that wild fabrication in "Binger's" post

 

^^ that would be the best way to go. I have heard Okie Joe is highly recommended on the HAMB.


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I've built a few and hot rods and I have considered getting the axle dropped. I think for now I will put the 16 inch wheels and tires on maybe reverse eye the springs then do some cosmetic things and drive until I can drop the axle and modify the banger. I will take it in steps so all the help and ideas are defiantly good help on getting the best end result.


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If you keep the fenders you need a strech drop axle running the wires or they sit too far in the guards.See pic in post 26 of a strech drop http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/i-caught-the-banger-virus.957310/

 

I run an Okie Joe 3 1/2" Stretch-Dropped axle with 1932-34 Perch Pins and Spindles. Everything else is Model A with mechanical brakes and bolts up like it was meant to from the factory.

I prefer a little less rubber rake, and a little more tread out back, so I would suggest 600-16 in the front and 700-16 in the back (a 700 series is inexplicably wider in the tread than a 750 series).

As for wheels, you will need to run Ford or Kelsey Hayes wire wheels (1935's are 16"x4") if you want to keep your stock brake drums. Model A through 1935 Ford drums have a raised snout that interfaces with the backside of the wheel. If you try to put the later solid wheels on these, you need to run a spacer and possibly longer studs to give them a flat surface to mount on.

 

Here's a picture of my Tub's front end:


Okie Joe 3 1/2" Stretch Dropped Model A Axle
1932-34 Ford Perch Pins
1932-34 Ford Spindles
Model A Mechanical Brakes (to include backing plates, hubs, bearings, and drums)
Model A Brake Actuators
Model A Kingpins
Model A everything else...

No heating, bending, or other craziness. The steering drag link comes extremely close to rubbing on the tie rod but didn't interfere. I used a shortened pitman arm to give me a little quicker steering and widen the gap at the same time though.

 

Do you have any picks showing ride height don't want an extreme rake want it lower and clean. My car runs and drives great so I want to do minimal modes but want it to have the right stance


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Deuce bumpers would be way cool....

View attachment 3300933

One of my favorite cars...

 

Okay, maybe this'll work...

 

Definitely one of the coolest modified originals I've seen...

 

Love those last two pics of my car,it's been in Australia for some time now

 

Hey Scott,

the pic of the modifications on the perches with the mechanical brake is from my model a. If you do that, the regular shocks won't fit anymore. And as someone wrote "you should go with shocks. It's a huge difference!". I put 39 Chevy truck shocks on mine. Here are some pics of it. They are mounted on the frame an go on the wishbones.

If you wanna have infos about the modifications I did on the frontend, especially on the perches just contact me.

In the back I lowered the car with a Model T 8 leaf spring and kicked the 3rd leaf out. With wheels and the axle in the front I lowered it about 5 inches. In the back with the Model T spring 2.5 inches without any other modifications. Attached a pic of my actual stance.

 

Be sure and purchase wheel supports for the model a drums if your going with 16 inch wire wheels

 

Wheel supports? Mine fitted without anything.