if you need some inspiration; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rusty-crusty-283-build.1010335/#post-11408210
and here is another; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/what-to-do-with-this-broken-283-v8.941152/
While my son is away for the Fall semester (he's in the auto restoration program at Penn College) we will read as much as we can and source components.
I think the 57 265's were painted yellow and not he traditional Chevy orange. I'm possibly mistaken about this "fact" since I was 11 at the time!
Initial measurements with my rather pedestrian digital calipers shows bores ranging from 3.75"- 3.890. Looks to be standard bore?
If you ever buy a 57 engine get a pilot bearing and try it in the end of the crank. If the hole is too big its a turboglide crank. Do not use it. I learned this the hard way after I had spent a ton of money on it. They make an aftermarket bearing you can use but the cranks are supposed to be inferior. Mine broke the crank and seized the motor at 6000 in high gear. Went for a hell of a ride. With as few turboglide motors as they made only I could end up with one. Of course that was 56 years ago when I was teenager
I've had a Powerglide crank that the pilot bearing bore was undersized and not concentric. Just another thing to look at and be aware of with these old engines.
If you mean the engine cradle that bolts to the front of the engine, the mounting holes are there(factory mounts). If you mean the tube type that bolts to the side mounts-nope.
I think I have noted another difference in the 57' 283 that is found on no other year and I can't imagine why it exists. I have seen on 57 only, an enlargement of the block's waterjacket on the outer sides of the engine. It shows as an approx. 3/16" step about 1/2 " down from the deck. This is apparent in SUSQ's 1 st, 3rd, and last pictures on page 2. I have never found it on any other year and I don't know if it exists on 57' 265's. The engine numbers on the pad for the 265 ended in C, CD, or CE and most I have seen were in pickups and all I have seen were painted yellow--even in cars. I have bored and ran 265's bored to 3 7/8 + .030 and have never had a early 283 problem bored .125. We installed a 1/16" wall thickness sleeve in our 57 engine bored to 4" to correct a scored place and barely broke through to the water space. That's a total oversize of .250 to accept the sleeve.
Also need to remember when you are rebuilding it that the rear cam bearing is different on early small blocks. Newer ones can be altered to work. Pete
Hey there, B-B-B-B-utch, have you had any luck finding your stash that was stolen ? The floorshift for GM 3-speed ? Excuse the stutter.
Unfortunately, NO. I don't think it's too high of priority with the police department. If something "falls" into their lap, they might do something. Along the same lines of "floor-shift for GM 3 speed", I bought a 55-57 Muncie 319. That's the Muncie 318 WITH a Borg Warner R-10 overdrive attached, and now I've been assembling the parts to get a working Hurst shifter based on an old Synchro-Loc. I found a NOS 55-65 Muncie 319 mount-rods-levers kit. Just a side project, with no car in mind to put it in. I'd like to have the Ansen Posi-Shift for it though. I did move what was left out of the storage locker and back home; @#$%^&* thieves! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Butch, I didnt know you got ripped off. Theres a swap coming up here soon, pm me a listof what was taken, and I'll keep an eye out.
I've never been a fan of a front mount with a tail housing mount. Especially with an aluminum bellhousing the mounts are just to far apart.
I wish someone local would get all excited about 283's I have one running in a 57 complete with Powerslide and rear end . could be real cheap .
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