I've been looking all over and can not find my answer. So How hard is it to swap the sort tail shaft from a newer muncie 3 speed 318 to a 55,56,57 long tail shaft trans. I6m doing a open drive line in my 47 chevy Fleetline I found a 55 muncie 318 rebuild for a good price. I have the short tail shaft thats just a builder so I don't have a problem using it for parts. Any help would be great thanks Ronny
should be the same parts, assuming they both have the coarse spline output shaft, which I am guessing they do. http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm0701.html tells you how to take it apart and put it back together again. You want some new gaskets, most likely. Might change the rear seal if it's old. No front seal, so don't worry about it.
While you have it apart, It'd be silly not to put a small parts kit (needle brgs, thrust washers, snap rings) in it. Not very expensive. Also, check the 2-3 big syncro hub too. If the ends, (actual synchronizer) are really sloppy, suggest you replace that too. If you bang 2nd..it tends to loosen them up. The old "pay me now or pay me later" scene. God knows I've torn up enough of those. Good luck. Oops...didn't see the rebuilt part in the original post. Doesn't hurt to check things while apart.
The long tail shaft tans is a rebuild just want to make it a short tail so I have a cross member mount.
really simple swap. Your only taking the front imput and rear housing off. There are 14 large and 24 smaller needle bearings in the imput that need packed in heavy grease to reassemble. When I was a teen I used to run those transmissions in hot rods and tore up a pile of them. I would take the best parts and put together a trans. If your wanting to use the second speed gear and tail housing bearing from the long tail trans you need as set of heavy duty snap ring pliers.
Thanks @Old wolf that's what I needed to hear. My dad tore up a lot also and I have a pile of them laying around now would like to make something work on my old car.
Hurst used to make a "conversion mount", to add a rear mount to the transmissions that did't have one. There's currently one on that auction site we all know and love. I also have one I bought some time ago. The shorter 318's were for the "X" frame cars. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I would put them vertically in old wheels and pull the tailshaft housings off. The synchro and 1-R gear should stay in place. If your lucky, the needles will stay in the input. You can lift the synchro if you have to get to the needles. It should go right back together. Changing the brass synchros in the hub is a 100% impossible job. Buy a new assy if you need one and can find one.
I just took a look; there are THREE of them for sale. Item numbers 201656958827, 191957953102, and 13419330323526. The last one is the cheapest, and all are NOS. There you go leadfootloon. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Forget the conversion mount. Tear them apart and build what you need. That way you learn the know how and it only cost you some labor. And when you break it you can fix it.
Your right I will open them up and mak w it what I need. I'm not sure what I will even need yet depending on where the trans mount will land with the trans. Thanks again for all the advice. Another question for you did you ever put that old chevy block in the molasses? I know you had to move and all that.
@Old wolf is there a lot of difference between the muncie 3 speed and the saginaw 3 speed as far as ratios and mounting goes on the bellhousing?
Yes the Saginaw has a fine spline outpuit shaft. the inpuit shaft has a number of grooves or no grooves around it depending on gear ratio. The shift arms are different. and you have to modify linkage if you retain the three on the tree. many saginaws have a larger diameter front bearing retainer and will not fit a early bellhousing.
Yes that's a Muncie. a Saginaw has a 7 bolt side cover. many people mistakenly believe because some of them where manufactured in Saginaw Michigan they are Saginaw trans.
Typical standard 58-64 Chevy 3 speed. The close ratio ones did not have the necked down input shaft. No synchro on first.