As stated in a previous post, a buddy of mine picked up a 59 Apache last weekend. The 235 seems to run very nicely, but is NOISY as hell. He thinks that he read somewhere that the lifters in the 59 truck engine were hydraulic, but we aren't sure. We think we have a handle on how to adjust solid lifter valves, but how do we tell what we have and how do we adjust hydraulic lifters. My Motors manual doesn't seem to help too much. If the valves are opening and closing, how do you take your measurement?
Pull the valve cover, start the motor, and see if the rockers are loose by grabbing them. If they are, adjust the ones that are loose 1/8 - 1/4 turn and see if they quiet down. You should be able to adjust the noise out. If you can grab the pushrod with your fingers, adjust until there is a little resistance as you turn it. If you want to avoid the mess, Motor's gives the following procedure. 1. Remove dist cap and crank engine until rotor points to no. 1 cyl with the points open. 2. turn rocker adjusting screw until all lash is removed from both lifters to valve. This can be determined by checking push rod side play at the adjusting screw end while turning the adjusting screw. When no more side play is felt, continue turning screw 1 1/2 turns and lock securely 3 Crank the engine until the rotor is pointing to no. 5 position and adjust like above. The rest of the valves can be adjusted by setting the engine with the rotor pointing to the cylinder positions in the sequence of the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. Dan
Hi Deyomatic! I checked an old Motor Service manual of mine and it shows the '59 Chevrolet 235 as having hydraulics. The truck could have an older 235 which does have solids. It's been many years since I raced these and 261 Pontiacs and I can't remember if the ones with hydraulics had adjusters like the solid equipped ones. You can check for sure by pulling off the side tappet cover and looking for the telltale circlip recessed in the lifter body of the tappet. If it does have hydraulics, perhaps the lifters have picked up crud due to the oil being in need of a change (along with the filter)which would cause the noise. If it does have solids, set the intakes @ .008 and the exhausts @ .016. Set them with the engine hot. Use the firing order method as previously mentioned. Good luck and hope this helps! Regards, Dave.
make sure those rockers are getting oil,if your rockers are eating themselves that makes a LOT of noise-george
I could be completely wrong here as I usually are, but are'nt hydralic lifters not adjustable? Hydralic Lifters have zero clearance so theres nothing to adjust.
I'm not sure about the truck engines, but didn't the car 235s use hydraulic lifters starting in 54? And possibly the '53 powerglide only. And yes, I believe the hydraulic lifters do not have any adjustment. www.chevytalk.com should have alot of information about this. Derrick
i think hydraulic lifters have a certain amount of "preload",so the lifter cup will not be banging against the retaining ring or circlip,whichever it may have.
The big prize goes to stealthcruiser. You do indeed have an amount of preload needed on Hyd. lifters.
Hydraulic lifter adjustment, rotate engine until desired valves are fully closed....ie; until rotor arm points to #1 ign lead on dist cap (#1 is now on compression), both valves may now be adjusted on #1 cyl, back off adjusting nut until freeplay is felt now tighten adjusting nut until you just eliminate any lash, now turn adjusting nut one full turn. This will center the plunger in the lifter, repeat on all cyl's & your done.
I would think that if you need to adjust your hydraulic lifters then you've got a bigger problem than you know. Again all I know is Hydraulics = No Adjustment.
Yes, hydraulic lifters on a 235 can need adjustment. And, if I remember correctly, some truck engines were still using solids as late as '59, but not sure. If they are solids, they will be noisy, if you can't hear them, they are too tight. I think the settings are .012 and .016, intake and exhaust...I can check and verify this if need be. Set them with the engine running...yes, running. Take a large screwdriver and grind an "H" shape in the tip, to keep it from "walking" off the adjuster tip. Break the nuts loose with the engine off, then crank it, back the adjuster off, slip the feeler gauge in and tighten until there is a slight drag on the feeler gauge when sliding in and out. My grandfather taught me how to do this...he was a long time GM mechanic...I have his certification papers from 1947. If it is hydraulic, loosen the adjuster nut and tighten down until the engine starts to skip. then back off until it starts clattering (slowly, and the lifter will have to pump back up). After clattering, bring it back down about one to one and a half turns. Tighten nut and you are good to go. Also, as mentioned before, make sure you are getting plenty of oil on the top end...it won't be spraying like a small block, but should be dripping of the arms up and down the shaft... Brian
Yes the truck motors were solid and the adjustments are as follows: Intake .008 Exhaust .016 Thanks for playing. r
My first vehicle was a 59 Apache, noisy engine, My 55 sounds an awful like the 59, nothing crazy, I plan to check into it more this winter, I will be re-reading this string before my attempt.
If in fact you have solid lifters, set the lash with the engine at operating temperature. The service manuals of that time usually listed "hot" lash specifications and probably recommended doing the adjustments with the engine running. And as already mentioned, make sure you're getting a bit of oil at both ends of the rocker arms.
Hydraulic lifters adjust themselves to zero clearance. However, you have to adjust them to where the piston inside the lifter is at about it's mid point. In other words, you adjust the rocker to zero clearance and then pre-load the lifter.
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