Projects Olds Rocket 324 in a 32 Ford; "trying to finish it thread"..

I'm doing several things at once today, and took the valve cover off to buff/paint. While I was there, I used a remote starter button to bump the motor while feeling for lash on these hydraulics.

So I went through all of them not running, checking one valve that was up and it's mating valve down.

I found one very loose one, felt like maybe .008 or so and one more that had maybe .001 or 2. The real loose one bothers me quite a bit. I know I had these set with zero when the cam was swapped some years ago. A friend was chasing a couple noisy ones with motor running, and if he tried to go from barely zero and then a 1/2 turn for pre-load, the motor would shake like a sbc does, but it never cleared up until backing off the pre-load??

Anyways, I ran it after setting the two loose ones to zero with no pre-load,and it just sounds like a solid lifter chatter on both sides. I grab the intake manifold with my fingers and used my thumb to press real hard on the adjuster ends while idling, and I can't seem to change any noise. I have 35PSI oil at idle, warmed up, and oil is getting to both rocker shafts.

any thoughts?

BTW, it is an old NOS Crower hydraulic 1.5 ratio cam, with 1.5 stands and 1.5 McGurks, I don't feel any shaft-to-rocker slop. Covers are still off and I see no contact of rockers hitting anything while running at idle.
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When my engine was first fired, there was a little more noise than I expected. I think it was Tony who suggested loosening the valve cover bolts and moving the cover slightly. It helped.

 

I have the covers off and noises are still there, but a bit louder for that reason....and I also did look on the insides of covers, but no signs anywhere, of contact
Thanks

 

Could just be noisy, some hyd cams are noisier than others, depending on the ramps. Does the oil look clean?

 

Yes, and it has VR-1 and a bottle of the zz stuff.

I have always been plagued by Olds lifters My first was a 57 Olds my Dad gave to me for a "lot car" to tinker with. He replaced the car due to bad lifters he said, and poor gas mileage.

Ok. this 324 has a very sketchy history. the seller said it was a 55 88 that had like 34,000 miles, then side-swiped when kinda new. It was then stored indoors for 50? years till the seller bought it to part it out....

I was cleaning the exterior of the motor, after running it in mock up/driving tests. I decided that since it was removed, I'd change the crank seal and rope seal. Pulled the pan to see a spotless motor, cleaner than 30k miles, but a pile of fine stuff under the oil pickup? Then I pull the rear main cap for the rope seal install, and see that the crank journals were rusted, which I have never seen on a barn find. Pulled a few rod caps, same rust traces. So, the fine stuff must have been babbit from the bearings cleaning the rust off?

I look at undersides of pistons and they looked new shiny aluminum? Bore gauge showed .030 oversize, then did the crank to see it was a "10-10". Then find a crack at the first web on crank up front. So I swapped a STD 56 crank in, and while I was there on a Sunday night, I saw the lifters looked new with no stain on the bottom sides that should show tarnish on the lower 1/4"....so I shoved the lifters back, and snuck the Crower in, while the motor was standing on it's half bell.

So, I have technically, "used lifters", but the faces looked near zero run time.

Here's the odd part. Some of the lifters bleed down on shut-down. You can watch the valves slowly close. LOL. My 303 sludged up motor does the same thing on ALL the valves. That's why the 303 never stuck the pistons when junked outside for decades...the valves were shut!

I have some Marvel Oil, a guy gave me a case about 30 years ago...so maybe it's "the good stuff" he, he.
I will dump a can in for grins if I find it

 

If you were losing lifters or cam lobes, there would be metallic shit in the oil.Just a guess, but it's probably related to the lifter bleed down.

 

Can you explain that to me better, as I never got into cams much.

I did not know what this cam was, and the seller contacted Crower and they could not help.

Much later, I found out it came from an unassembled fully chromed 49-50 Olds show motor. I bought other parts that then told me the year, like chromed early 49-50 dist and chromed early timing cover with the longer pointer.

I set the cam on V blocks, a fixture to hold a lifter, and degree wheel. Posted all specs I measured on hamb and a race engine site. Two replies on the race site from cam grinder shops. They both said the ramp was HYD. Then the late DON_WOW replied about the lift, and said if I used 1.8's, it would be within .007-.oo8 of piston contact with unshaved surfaces, so I knew it was indeed a 1.5.

As I recall the ramp was .003, but I could probably find my old post if I listed it there.

So, if the ramp starts off the base circle diameter at zero lash, then closes the piddle, where is the chatter coming from?

 

lifter bleed down while running causing valves to slap the seats?

 

I went back and really concentrated on how it starts, sounds etc.

The couple of leaking ones; those go instant quiet as soon as oil pressure comes up.

Now that I did adjust the two loose ones, and the car is up on stands so I can get my ear right in there on both sides...they all sound exactly the same light ticking, front to back on both banks. So, is George solving the chatter issue, by suggesting it's the lobe profile? I was really listening closely all down each bank, and they are uniform.

Look how clean the heads are/were. I did no cleaning in there when I installed the 1.5's on the old shafts. That is taken in a dark shop at O'dark thirty tonight, and pic looks like rust where the oil is, but it is as clean/rustfree as the upper surfaces.



Unfortunately, I may have to remove those Badger spark plug chrome boot covers. I hear arcing on some on humid days like tonight is, and it makes the engine stumble on accel. I may coat the insides of them with plasti-grip to try that.

Those, and the red solid wires and loom/dividers, all came from that unassembled show motor 303

I'm going to run the car as is for now, and see if those couple of lifters straighten out on the trip to the show.


Those nice steel core gaskets were a gift from Dave50, and I was seeing how they line up with the Edmunds covers that don't fit all that well. It looks like those will cure my VC leaks

THANKS, Dave....but you are still a hoodlum. LOL

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It's not that unusual for aftermarket hyd cams to be noisier than stock cams. If the tapping is consistant across all of them, none are getting looser when the engine is run for a bit, and here's no metal in the oil, I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

 

oo0The melted old red plastic trial did not work for the marker and 3rd brake light. So I found two different translucent lids for food containers..lol. One was a nice red, other was ugly red. One was not dark enough so I put the two stacked and it looked good holding it to a light. I will make a better one someday.

I also had a very cool piece of clear reflective "inhancer lens" that fit at one bulb on a 73-79 Bug lens. It really sparkles holding it up at a light. It was not wide enough so I centered it behind the reds.

Then I found a new snap-in dual filament socket, and ground off two sides of the gripper teeth ring, so it could fit in the "box" of the marker holder, hidden. I put it sideways with the filaments centered to the reflective thing.

Old camera, one pic rainy/overcast this afternoon, and other is tonight with the flash taped over. Brake light switch is jumped, so that's brakes in both pics.


If you can see, I'm working in a water puddle. I need to fix the hole in the roof from the 2013 tornado- tree hit. Harleycontracters 32 coupe was parked right there that day.


I thought I was close enough to make a "to do list" today, that would not be overwhelming. But I keep adding to it. , while checking one off.

Dismounted two right tires to put a matching white up front, and turn the rear whitewall to the outside. Also welded on the two rear 40 smoothy hubcap adapters I made years ago, to use ford size on 56 olds wheels. Balanced all four. My re-hooped homemade front wheels were 3/4 oz one side, and other was 3+oz. Those are old genuine Firestones, the rears are never used Coker Clasics that are not made anymore? those were 3 to 4 oz

Also used plasti-dip in the chromed spark plug covers late today, Not sure if it can help.

Bummed to find out I lost my co-pilot, or actually pilot. as I had planned my son driving for the show trip. He is going with friends to Pulaski, NY for their annual Salmon fishing trip.

I need to scrub the car and take pics for "street rod insurance" real soon, that's why I did the tires today.

 

Looks bright Frank! Good job. I assume CT will allow you to use the BM11 plate? Is that a hassle with DMV?

 

I have two sets of CT 1932 plates, and I was going to use the 11 ones on my 32 Nash. I need to bring the 1932 plates in person when I go to DMV to register it. I still get new "classic" plates, and those must stay inside the car for Police or DOT routine spot checks. DMV wants to see the old plates to make sure they are good condition, and to verify the numbers/letters.

Geez, had to run back to Staples again today...dang internet parts keep failing here. Car money going to wrong place.

On my shop roof, I did not know there was a hole in the metal roof till yesterday with water hitting me with door open.. I knew the roof was smashed, but I always thought that spot was wet from rain seeping under the door. I need to get up there and fix it. Add it to the list..

talked with Dave5o this morning, he said you were meeting up Wed. He also offered to come help on my car Sun, and would drive his 32 to my place on show day, and run together. He has a cell, I don't, but if I broke down, my kid is not around to bring the truck & trailer... I worry far too much I guess.

 

Still at all the small stuff. Good news now the valve covers are back on, the valves sound fine. It must have been just the two loose ones.

Late today after gluing the dang right runningboard cover AGAIN, I wanted to drive up by the hose to at least clean the whitewalls that were really bad. Can't wash the car till the RB glue dries I guess.

Sitting on a hill, the car leaning like it should, the right axle whacks the frame when my kid did the bounce test. One inch clearance on the left axle, and he said about 4 fingers on the left, due to tilt. It's just too soft.


Running board all clamped with clothespins and body clamps ...sheesh


Old pic on hamb...32 cabriolet, but look at the running board covers....snaps to hold them, just like Ted's (hamber)33 Chevy coupe built by his Dad in 1959. I guess I will try that in winter.


I told my son to drive the car back to flat ground to bounce test again. I could tell it was hitting on the 2nd push he did. You can see in the next pic, that the rear has settled flatter, now that the car is at ride weight with 6.5 gallons gas and a huge truck battery in the trunk.

He offered to help put another leaf back in tomorrow night. Not sure if I should do a mid-length leaf or put the longest full width one back in? ....any thoughts?


Picky stuff: I was forced to buy a repro stainless radio block off cover plate. The old one was rusted chromed steel. I get it on and bending the tabs to hold it to my "defroster deflector", and the last tabs I bent were at the bottom, and they hit my hinges I made. So, shaky hands and shit eyesight, I get the diegrinder up in from the bottom with a cut off wheel, and eliminate them. Works nice now, and I didn't hit the dash That cover has multiple detents to hold it open at whatever angle is best for defrosting. BTW, the def motor is quiet, but now the main heater motor is howling. I did oil both and bench tested both..but..? I did find out the vac wiper motor has a park position, seems odd to me. It works good as well.


That brown building is NOT my house..lol...it's another ex-chicken barn/ex hippy pottery storefront-showroom.. It can hold 5-6 cars plus tons of parts in the low headroom section.

Man, the car just runs and feels different now, and I sure was fighting the urge to blast it down to the Diner 1/4 mile away, and back. It just feels like it wants to GO..

 

in my opinion i would add a couple mid length leaves, you need clearance.
the upholster was telling me today again how bad the contact glue has gotten. he said really clean the surfaces and let it dry GOOD before making contact. the snaps really are a good solution and give you [me] the option to remove them to clean them or run without.
once the legal tag is hanging on the back of it that car is going to wake you up and force you to drive it
mine does

 

Two mid length? Maybe I should take a pic in the shop on flat surface. I took out the real long one that backs up the eyelets of the main(also took out others, mid to shorter). When the car was leaning on that hill, the right side 1/2 was darn near flat. I'll try to get a pic when I put the car in now.

My R/Boards are new 18 gauge I made, primed, and new clean vinyl. DAP fresh can of contact cement the first time, and they were off the car, clamped with long strips of 1/4" thick aluminum on both sides of the vinyl that wraps underneath...and it sat for 5 days, clamped. They started to lift about a month or two later, and the board and the mat now feel gooey/sticky/slimey??? I did let both surfaces flash dry before bonding like the can said. This time, I can't clean the slime, so I just brushed more in there. I will put those long clamping strips back on tonight. I need to take insurance pics tomorrow for sure!

The car just "ran and felt" spirited today, my kid was shocked how quickly it fired when he moved it, and said it does not cold-stumble like his last drive. Those plug covers were arching out

 

Frank, i bet i may also be speaking for others here that followed this build from the beginning , it makes me feel good to see you finish this car AND enjoy it.

 

I have a fondness for those '55 Merc flipper caps...

 

Quote was to get your attention to see the pic I just took.

In person, what I see from "the center of car, out to the shackle", is that there is some arch in the part that is closest to center of car. But it looks like starting halfway of that half, and out to the shackle, that part is dead flat, like it needs at least the longest one put back in? Or not?

What I need:..... it is far too soft, soft as a Cadillac with bad shocks. And I do need a slight raise, as the shackle angle is not as good now.

Open to suggestions..


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I would agree with tb33; adding 1-2 mid-length leaves will provide both clearance and stiffness.
Good to hear you finally got the motor dialed in...Those little "bugs" will drive you crazy when striving
for the home stretch!

 

Thanks for the reply, as we may do this tonight. I have all the removed leaves, so I will do exactly as you both suggested..

"home stretch": just talked with my local insurance agent and emailed the 5 pics needed for Rod insurance. He claims it will be by tomorrow at latest, because I already have two others on their Classic insurance. No need to mail forms, etc.

All I did this morning is get the glue off the white interior panels with mineral spirits, then a wash/dry and then took pics and emailed them. I am now realizing how really beat up/tired I got, and now dreading trailering it to get a VIN check.... and then see if DMV likes my paperwork...lol So maybe get plates in less than a week, I hope.

 

Sweet ride good luck with it

 

Trying to knock the do-list down..

I jacked up the front to tighten the pitman and whatever, then set the toe...but I decided to do the crap job of finishing the homemade front spreader bar. It is a piece of thin wall steel tubing that was an inner steering column shifter tube for an A/T 67-72 C-10. I only had it sitting in the frame, not aligned or welded. I was happy to see that I had once made the two oval side mounting plates that are held by the bumper bolts. That saved time.

The two front screws for the apron are screwed into some weird Ford bumper bolt that also has a threaded hole for the apron screws. I don't have a bumper so I never ordered some. I made up some spacer stuff instead, and need to trim the bolts with a cutoff wheel and get 2 chromed acorn nuts.

I called up Martha Stewart to ask what color the spreader should be...he.he...and it was Toyota silver left over from my son's resale project truck. I think it looks fine as it looks like the aluminum grille trim. Looks better with the license plate on, as most is hidden anyways.


Then I pulled off the unfinished rear pushbar spreader to weld the license housing, and also finish-weld the tacked-on rear frame horns that I shortened. Nice having that 2 connector wire block in the trunk so I could quickly unhook the marker light/3rd brake light and pull the whole bar off.

I thought silver or white was a bad choice so I went with spraycan black on the pushbar, and then brush coated the frame horns, so I don't waste time taping/masking. (I need a chrome nerf bumper)


Trunk pic; I brush painted the insides, and also the tank. I really like the tank, not only for 20 gallons, but I added 5, from a full 5 gallon red/rectangle gas can with a non-flex neck, without needing a funnel, It fills so nice. And that old Cadillac gas gauge is so accurate. It was faintly embossed on the brass dial, in one gallon increments. I tried to put white urethane paint marks on each gallon mark, but I missed one it seems....but it was showing 6 when I added that gas last week, and I had one gallon in there before the 5 was added.

My 47 Plymouth gas gauge face, with 70's Ford gauge guts, showed a tick under 1/4. I will wait till I fill it, to see if I need adjustments

 

Update from 2 minutes ago....my car is legally insured, and my agent has the insurance cards waiting for me 3 miles away from here. And if I chose to stand in line at DMV which is 5 miles the other direction ....I could be on the road this afternoon, if I just get temp plates to drive elsewhere for the VIN verification.

holy crap... after 9 friggin years of fighting this unrestorable wreck.... I'm kind of...in shock.

I think I will wait till first thing next week which will be Tuesday as they are closed Mondays. I'd like to finish a few things that I'd bet I will not do, once I get plates. That is my past history

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Congrats Frank! The car looks awesome. Dave

 

thanks, Dave..
Pic taken around 2008-09 when I first moved here:



Insurance pic taken this week: the only thing I did not do myself, was cutting the glass. That slowed me down a lot, and me using mostly junk parts, so it's not really a high quality build . I should take it to the local metal recycle place to show them what all the scrap steel/aluminum went on, that I bought there over the years.

 

One of the best budget builds I've seen in a long time. You really nailed the look and the DIY concept!

 

Really love the interior in your car Frank, very nice. Very period, without being gaudy or over the top. Very nice.

 

Cripes, I just posted this car on the 60's style hot rod thread.

 

yes,behind Gammells coupe. I spotted that.