Technical need brake and steering box id help!

I just picked up a model a and was not able to talk to the original builder,and Im trying to ID the front brakes and steering box so i can see what im starting with. Any help would be much appreciated!

 

looks like 1950s Chevy truck spindles and brakes. interesting. The steering gear looks...early Mustang? or other Ford from the 60s era?

 

I was thinking the same on the brakes judged by google searches I did. I just searched mustang boxes and it kinda looks like 65-66 mustang. are either of those worth a crap on my model a or should i look for something else?

 

I agree with Squirrel, the spindles look like most pre 55 Chevrolet. What is the wheel bolt pattern? The steering box looks to pre Rag Joint with a pined U-Joint. If that's the case I'd send it to the used parts shelf until I machined it for a double D joint. More photos of it would help with I.D.
The Wizzard

 

Mustang boxes were common way back when. Most often with 4 Bar and Drag link. They were OK.
The Wizzard

 

Easy tell on pre 55 GM or Ford brakes. GM used ball bearing wheel bearings. Ford used timken style

 

i will get better pictures and check the bolt pattern tomorrow and post my results. thanks for the info guys!

 

it is set up that way. what box do you suggest?

 

How does the truck ride, steer, and stop?

 

It doesn't have a motor or tranny in it, but pushing it into the garage the steering had a little play. If Im going to change the box should I change it to a cross steer set up? I would think that would have less bump steer.

 

Before condemning any steering box, you must check for freeplay only when the worm gear is at true dead center. The only way to properly do this, is unhook the rod at pitman arm. Go lock to lock counting turns, then go back 1/2 of the total turns. Now feel the play while watching the pitman. Then I'd gradually tighten the adjuster screw in, while going a half turn of steering wheel in each direction. When the setting is correct, you will feel a very short tight spot at true dead center.

the other test is done before that: Check sector shaft bushing slop with pitman and steering still hooked up. Watch to see if pitman arm is flopping in that bushing before the wheels start to turn. Do this very slowly to see it the shaft behind pitman is rocking back and forth

 

the pitman shaft bushing test is easier to do, if you have help to slightly wiggle the steering wheel back and forth, as you watch

 

It may have chevy truck brakes on it, but the hubs have either been replaced with something else or the bolt pattern re-drilled. Those trucks had six bolt wheels and this has Cragars on the front.

 

51-54 chevy car 5 lug hubs and drums fit on 51-59 chevy truck spindles, you know....

 

Minor free play is a good thing. I wouldn't suggest changing anything including the brakes. My suggestion is put a motor in it, drive it and see what you have. Clearly everything worked at one time. Don't try to re invent the Wheel or Change just for the sake of Change. Until you drive a drag link or a cross steer system how do you know what works for you? A beam Axle is not going to drive like R&P no matter what. Drum brakes will stop a Model A just fine as long as they work right.
The Wizzard

 

Did not know that. I have played with plenty of the cars but never the trucks. This is why im on here learn something new almost every time I read a thread. Thanks Squirrel.

 

I would change the steering box to a 68 to 70 mustang style only because the early box did not have an input seal to keep the dirt out and I do not know how they attached the u joint

 

Not with me behind the wheel. I've been car truck mechanic since 1970, so I've driven many thousands of cars. I can feel a loose rod end or box slop in a 1/8 th mile ride..

The reason I get spooked on slop?? I was a teen, knew nothing...bought a 50s built rod, I always wanted one..

The car had been mechanically abused. The side steer box was missing the sector/pitman nut! Why?, because they tried to pull off the pitman for some reason, and bashed the threaded end so badly that it looked like a circus tent spike. I left for work early to use their torches to cut the whole deal apart.

I was going around a very slight curve on a state road in morning rush hour....the steering felt way looser... then a dragging sound on the road. I started to go off the shoulder and it was a car-flipping embankment....so I nailed the brake hard, and it stopped straight for the first time ever. All I had was a pair of bigger vicegrips. Used those to bang the pitman back on, then clamp them to the mushroomed threaded part, as a nut.

By 11am, I just started to stop shaking after 4 hours

I CANNOT drive a car with play since

.

 

wow, that must have really shook you up! now you can't even discern between a little bit of play, and no steering.

I would rather not have any play at all, too. I also like to have a nut on the pitman arm.

 

You knowingly drove a Car with no nut holding the Pitman arm on? I might question your sanity. There is a big difference between free play and Slop.
The Wizzard

 

Reading is fundamental:

How smart were you as a teen? In hindsight, I should have clamped the vicegrips on BEFORE I went to cut that mess off. I had no tools, no advice, no internet to hold my hand, AND that pitman looked like it was that way since the 50s. The older guy who sold me the car, took me for a sales demo in it, over the worst potholed city streets, banging gears and driving insanely fast over the ruts.


my point is that zero play is now my cup of tea, always and forever.

 

ok guys, I finally was able to get in the garage for more info! the front brakes look like the 49-54 chevy units and have been redrilled for a 5 on 4 1/2 ford pattern. the steering box is still a mystery to me. I know my pictures arent the best. now im also trying to figure out what they used for the pedals and master cylinders, any ideas? thank you in advance for the help!!

 

steering box looks like 65 ford, the C3D...number is for 1963 Falcon design, but the date code of 5F10 indicates 1965 manufacture. Falcons and Mustangs shared many parts.

The brakes are likely 51-59 Chevy truck, with 51-54 car hub/drums.

 

master cylinders look like 49-51 ford car.

 

cool, thats a big help!! you have any idea on the brake and clutch master cylinders?

 

yeah, I guess you missed that post, it's right above your last one

master cylinders look like 49-51 ford car.

 

whoops, I just saw that post

 

thanks for all the help!

 

That box looks Corvair to me

 

Chevy parts don't have Ford part numbers.

Please excuse the spelling. I posted this with my phone.