Hot Rods I need more headlight!!

After years of running my 48 Chev. P/U truck I have to concede I can't see very far ahead on a dark highway. I've got 12 volt Halogen bulbs and they work well, but at 50+ mph I'm out running my headlights. I'd like to have more, brighter lights ahead of me. My late model cars all have the new modern style Hi Intensity lights and I REALLY notice the difference. Other than auxiliary lights mounted on the front pan, I don't have a plan. Any suggestions? Bill

 

Are you running a headlight relay? I converted a '63 Valiant that I daily drove between 2 lil towns when we lived out in the boonies. HUGE difference. A lot of great info here;
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

 

I have Sylvania Silver Star bulbs in my cars they are much better than regular H4 halogen.
I will tell you also that aiming is critical on getting the best view down the road.
I have Hella 7" headlights with the silver star bulbs aimed using Hella's instructions.
The one downside to these bulbs are that they do not last as long as regular halogen.
KK

 

Cibie headlights.... there really is a difference. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

I'm running a Ron Francis wiring kit, complete with headlight relay. Bill

 

With a 1 wire alternator my T was only putting out 12.5v or so at the dash volt meter with the lights on. (Sensing from the main buss terminal setup under the dash)
I changed Alternator locations and didn't have room for the older 1 wire, so I went to a CS130 style, smaller body setup. The volt meter now reads over 14v with the lights on and the lights are obviously brighter.
Wouldn't think a volt and a half or so would make much difference but it did!
My lights are relayed as well, but the relays are under the dash so they aren't making as big a difference as they might if mounted real close to the lights themselves.
Check your voltage at the main distribution point of your harness. Worth a shot!

 

Yep, that's one of the issues with a one-wire alternator....

 

The Cibies with 55/80 or 55/100 bulbs will light up the road better than anything else I have found but they are a bit spendy. The 1 wire Deco alternator originally came about to have an easy way to convert farm equipment to 12 With an alternator. At that was the first place I saw them before they showed up on hot rods. With a mag ignition and one or two light they get along great with just enough charging to keep the battery charged.

 

"I need more headlight". If that was a Christopher Walken reference, I salute you.

 

Are they aimed properly?

Are you just getting old?

 

More cowbell!

 

Been running halogen 7'' sealed beams in pre-'55 GMCs & Chevvies for years. 12v gen. & reg. set at 13.8v, factory wiring. You can't outrun the lights with the stock rear axle.

 

LOL, that's more likely the case....

 

A couple of answers------Yea, I AM getting that old. ----Christofer Walken's SNL line was "I need more cowbells".(although I'm not to sure all HIS lightbulbs are working)----As far as if the headlights are properly aligned-------I think so. The only way I ever heard of aligning them was tape marks on the garage door. When ever I put the brights on, some body will "flash" me. Maybe I'm asking to much of my truck, trying to much to compare it to my newer (07) truck for distance lighting. ----I'm not familiar with Cibie lights, do they replace 7" bulbs? Any different than 3 prong plugs? ------ As far as "out running" my headlights, I guess I'm referring to reaction time/stopping distance on whats ahead. Latest example was a windblown plastic garbage can in the road. At 60 mph I would like to have the headlights to see it sooner. Bill

 

Went through issue beginning of summer...I thought aiming was the issue but turned out to be more....http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/head-light-angle.1024059/

 

My eyes are still pretty good, but not so good at night, as they used to be. The way lenses work, aperture vs. depth of field, etc. means that it's harder to focus at night. I got some glasses a while back, they don't have much correction, but it makes a noticeable difference when I wear them when driving at night.

But trying some aftermarket headlight bulbs sounds like a good idea.

 

I had been going through the same issue...out-driving my lights. I was hesitant to drive after dark because of the problem. Did a lot of looking and settled on (2) 7" Truck-Lite L.E.D. bulbs. They are VERY expensive (like $230 each @NAPA with a discount) but many times I have spent more than that on my hot rod to make it LOOK nice. I figured $400+ is money well spent in the name of SAFETY. Anyway that's the way I justified spending that much money on headlights. Oh my, what a difference. I can actually see very well and am well pleased. Very low amperage draw also.
The bulbs actually have kind of a "sinister" black chrome look to them. Check them out on the NAPA website:
Truck-Lite 27270C. Good Luck ! ....'34 Terraplane

 

I couldn't bring them up on NAPA website when I just tried but that's definitely where I got mine. My local store actually had them on the shelf for Jeeps..etc. They are D.O.T. approved.
You can also check them out at truck-lite.com.
Also, I see them listed for much less $$$ on Amazon ($160)...if they're the same bulb.... ??

 

napa

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/LIT27270C/

amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-27270C-Headlamp/dp/B007K8AA7I

looks like the same part number, etc. Good thing you're keeping the NAPA store in business, we need parts stores to survive...

 

Bill, with stock 32 huge headlights, I have to run on high beams all the time. Reflectors are just too large to focus beam. Aim yours down a bit so the oncoming guy doesn't get blinded. Cheap Rinaldi approved fix. And whoever commented about one wire alternators, I fought a voltage problem, and had Powermaster give my car the free check at the Louisville Nats a couple of years ago. Talk to them, nothing wrong with one wires, problems come from wrong output alternator, and undersized wiring.

 

I have sealed beam halogens on my Ford and an aftermarket harness, no relay. I aligned them a month ago at a friend's shop. They are considerably brighter than stock bulbs and I can see pretty far. I'm using a GM 3-wire 63 amp alternator.

 

Pulled this off the net a while ago, just in case---

I have installed headlights from the new Jeep Wrangler for a different look.

they fit the standard bucket. They come with a plastic mount and a trim ring and are set up for right and left in the Wrangler. Just take the parts off and put them in your bucket. You also need another pig tail as the connections are different.


Canuck

 

As I get older I noticed I do not see at night like I did years ago,I have a headlight alignment kit which helps a bunch and can see decent with halogen bulbs but I do have a problem with the original reflector lights in my 37 Chevy p/u and even being 12 volts need to use brights more. The first time I drove my 55 sunliner to daytona I thought I was going blind but had the head light assemblies switched so it was fixed on the next trip at night.

 

sometimes when i'm tired, i drive with only one eye open and sleep with the other.

it's ok, it's my good eye.

 

Hi Junkyardjeff.At night,do you see halos around street lights,headlights and ect?If so,go to your eye doctor and get checked for cataracts.As the halos are a sign of them.They WILL kill your night vision.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Halogen bulbs work better than old school Tungsten but they need more juice to hit their sweet spot. If the voltage is slightly off, the brightness drops off in a big way and there is no improvement at all. It's important that there is no voltage drop in the wiring and connections as it is a long run from the battery to the headlight switch, down to the floor switch, and all the way back out to the headlights.

I resisted (heh) the use of headlight relays with my stock generator equipped truck on the assumption that folks drove at night back then too. It's true headlights have improved in recent decades, but those folks weren't driving around in the dark back then, they didn't ship with dim, yellow headlights. Dim headlights means there's work to do. After cleaning up the rubber block and firewall connectors, SAE, ground cables etc, floor switch replacement everything worked fine, and my eyes aren't what they used to be at night. A serviceable generator or alternator will maintain around 14 volts under all load conditions. That's what headlights want to see.

What happens is all the resistance in the wiring and connectors roasts the switch, this is why folks have the "blinking headlight switch syndrome." Relays are always suggested here but it's a safe bet if the headlights are starved of current, the ignition and accessories are not getting full measure either.

Have run halogens with stock generator for almost 20 years now, if you pencil out the math the additional current draw compared with tungsten isn't enough to matter. Clean tight electrical connections are. The switch doesn't even get warm. When I saw a relay kit harness for $12 (quality!) installed it just to see how it worked and make comparisons. Haven't really noticed any difference in distance brightness but the usable beam got noticeably wider, vision to the sides improved. Headlight dimming at idle also is decreased, didn't anticipate that.

It does take stress off the headlight switch too but it's still important to fix an underlying problem versus simply wiring around it. Measure the voltage drop on either the negative or esp. positive leg of the battery post to headlight terminal and you'll see what I mean. Even just a few tenths of a volt will dim things considerable.

 

Jack E/NJ

 

Yes I am starting to see halos around lights at night and was wondering if I was starting to get them,I will have them checked out soon.

 

One issue with 4 headlight cars is any 'OEM replacement' (including sealed-beam halogen) is only 35 watts on high beam, which is why you're getting away with not needing a relay. OEM 7" lights by comparison are 50/55W, most aftermarket are 55/60W. If you want truly impressive high beams (and they'll still be legal), use some Cibies at all four lights with 55/60W low-high and 60W high-only lamps. This will require a relay for the two high-only lamps. Total high-beam wattage goes from 140 watts to 240, a 70% increase. I did this on a '70 Merc, and those are still the best headlights I've ever had (including the 'latest thing' HID lamps in my new Mustang). On a long flat straight, the high beams would light road signs at almost a mile out....

Downside is the cost; you'll have $400 in them once you buy the lenses, lamps, and relay, but if seeing at night is the goal, these are the answer.

 

And to answer this question, the 7" Cibies are direct drop-ins, no changes needed.

I keep harping on this, but it's really true; lens optics do matter. Think about it... when the OEMs went to four headlights, they reduced the high-beam wattage by 40% compared to 7" lights, yet got better lighting by optimizing the lens optics with dedicated high beam lamps in conjunction with the 'compromised' low-high lamps. While more watts will increase light output, how well the light is projected is more important than just watts.