1931 Model A chassis/1927 Roadster body. Sticking with the banger. No fenders. Stock wishbone, hydraulic brakes, later wire wheels. The verdict is still out on if I'll try to use the stock Model A spindles or not. I will be using a dropped Model A axle, most likely Okie Joe's. I've done multiple searches and I have yet to find anything that talks much about dropped vs dropped and stretched. I get what the difference is, I just don't get the pros and cons of each or why one would work better for me than the other. Obviously the dropped axle pulls the wheels closer together which to me means the turning radius may be compromised. The car came with huge front tires (16 x 7.50) that would already rub at full lock. I'll be using smaller tires (5.5? 6.0?), plus the later brakes are wider, plus I'll need spacers to use later wheels with the brakes so those also push the wheels out from where they are now. My current thinking is to go with a simple dropped axle, no stretch. Any loss of turning radius would be partially gained back with the other changes. (FWIW the bikes I'm used to riding are known for having the turning radius of a large bus so I'm used to that sort of thing). With no fenders I don't have to worry about keeping things centered so for the most part does it come down to aesthetics? For whatever reason it seems I'd prefer the track to get narrower rather than a bit wider. So where might I be going wrong with my thinking? What did guys go with back in the day?
I may be mistaken, but I think any conventional "dropped" axle is stretched in the process....and, the deeper the drop, the greater the stretch. Your comment about "not getting wider" puzzles me. The "stretch" does not widen the axle as the extra length gained by the stretch is 'used' in the dropped section. The king pin bosses remain the same width apart. I suppose, theoretically, one could reshape the axle outboard of the wishbone bosses, without stretching it, effectively dropping the axle some in exchange for a narrowing of the outer end.....but I don't think that is what is commonly done. Ray
I realize they are stretching the material to drop the axle, but in this case the "stretch" refers to maintaining the stock distance between kingpins which isn't always done.
Ray, if you were to look at this web page, you might see what he's talking about...???? http://www.droppedaxles.com/FORD_AXLES.html
Stretch drops are mostly used to maintain the proper distances between perch and kingpin so that mechanical brakes can still be uses. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Donald Rumsfeld said...."there are the 'knowns', the 'known unknowns' and the 'unknown unknowns'...". I think I have been straying into the latter category a bit too much lately Ray
One school f thought is that a wider front track width gives you a little more stability at speed. GM did it on the 4WD trucks in the '70s. There is some question as to whether it was done to keep the rears from running through the same tracks as the fronts or not but on by product was more stability at speed. Now I know that you like high speed stability because as you stated your motor cycles have a very poor turning radius. LOL The mods that you suggest will poke the wheels out a little farther then they would be if you were using all stock components. So the question becomes will the lack of stretch be overcome by the *mix matched components. *note the use of mix matched and not mismatched.
On my 34, I went with a dropped and stretched front axle. The 34 is fenderless, but I did it for no other reason than keeping the track width the same. Figured the little extra width wouldn't hurt when cramming the tierod, steering arm, hydraulic hose, and shocks all into the same area.
I just finished installing a 4" dropped axle on my model A. This model A is a full fender car. I did not used a stretched axle just a 4" dropped axle, as to the handling of the car I am not sure that anyone could tell a difference, but it anything it may be a little better handling now than before. How much if that is due to the 4" drop alone as opposed to the narrower tract, or the lower center of gravity, I simply can not tell. The difference in the axle width is pretty minor, if I remember correctly it is like 1 5/8th of an inch per side or a total difference of 3 1/4" . My car does have cross steering and I remember cutting the steering arm by about 3". Sometimes we tend to over think this stuff ( I sure as hell do) your are not going to have a problem no matter which way you go.
I had my 37 axle stretched when it was dropped because I'm running a spring on top and spit bones. Spring perches are wider on a 37 and I was worried about hitting the wishbones with the tire when turning.
"Straight drop" means that as the axle is dropped, the spindle holes are "allowed" to move inward as they are pulled upward, effectively narrowing the track width as compared to the original, undropped axle. "Stretch drop" means that the axle ends are "stretched" outward as well as upward as the axle is dropped, so the track width remains the same as it was before the drop. Does that help? For instance, I am doing a straight drop on the axle for my '39, as lowered '39s/'40s are known for the tires hitting the outer fenderlip when the wheels are turned, in this case, narrowing the track width a bit is desirable.
This thread might make it clearer, this illustrates doing a "straight" drop. I just gave this thread a bump for the first time in over a decade, THIS is the kind of stuff that made the HAMB great. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/suspension-dropping-axles.6066/
What? Me? Overthink things? Never! Well, maybe sometimes. Let me think about that one a while and get back to you. Sounds like my thoughts aren't completely off the wall so I'll just go with whatever makes sense to me when the time comes.
the difference I see is .... dropped you can not use fenders ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, dropped & stretched will accept fenders . a standard dropped axle is a little narrow compared to a drop/stretch . okie joes is GOOD stuff ! I have a 4" dropped/stretched in my full fendered car & & it bolted up perfect .
Here is what I think they mean by stretched, dropped axle. They heat and stretch the end of the axle to achieve the drip. Kingpins are still the same distance apart, just higher on the axle.
I have fenders on my pickup. No stretch drop here. Sent from my SM-G900T using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I run a stretch dropped. I did so originally to keep the mechanical brakes. I also found that the 32 steering arms on the spindles didn't interfere with the axle as much and I didn't have to heat and drop them. I just re-tapered the steering ball holes from the bottom and put the tie rod on the bottom.
The Jalopy Journal
