Art & Inspiration Winter is coming. . . Got heat?

My garage is 24' x 25' and constructed from cement blocks. The roof is new, 16' garage door is insulated. It is very cold in winter with no insulation. I'd like to get the rafters foam sprayed to retain the heat. I'm using a 25k btu kerosene heater that works pretty well. The machine shop area had an electric heater.

Now that I've had heart surgery last month, I may be around for a while. I'm considering going out the back of my garage 10'- 12' with a radiant heated slab. I will move the entire machine shop into it. The low hanging loft will be removed and moved up as well as be shortened up (so I don't save too much crap). Wall construction can be wood and vinyl siding with good insulation all around. Heat might be a pellet stove in the new area and a 220v electric in the old area.

 

Only have my house garage--it is an oversized 3 car where I've built many cars. A few years ago my wife had a central heat and air system installed for me ( I was too tight to do it) It is great and should have done it years before.

 

7 grate Dearborn natural gas heater keeps the shop (3000 sf) 70+ degrees even when its 10deg outside
and gas bill runs $70 moth during the winter

 

Wheeldog - I wasn't sure if the thread was going to be about car heat or shop heat.
Shop - woodstove.
57 - None! Got to have my radiator shop build me a core for the "cheap'' style heater. Deluxe are available, but not for mine.

 

Thermostat on the wall and Propane Furnace in the attic. I keep it in the low 50's and just kick it up when working. 2x6 walls insulated doors and windows. Stays nice and warm.

 

HAHAHA my 57 has no heat either. Have most of the pieces but. . . Ehhh, the engine is warm enough

 

Would love to do this but am already over budget with the foundation, and I will insulate the foundation and the walls and ceilings also. This is being built at my girlfriends house and I am
in enough sh*t when the cost escalated. What we do to be with loved ones, but after 14 years
we are finally moved in together. Can't really complain, 1/2 the garage will be my 50 truck and
she plans to put a 60 Lincoln convertible on the other side, plus most of the stuff upstairs will be
my tools and stuff, and the loan to build the garage is in her name....

 

I had one given to me still in the box. Different brand though. My shop is 28x30 though I mainly work in an 18x28 area. Should I mount it width wise or length wise? I feel that width wise would allow the heat to deflect wider out length wise, if you know what I mean.

 

Been using a small wood stove in my 24 X 32 shop. BUT, this year I got a really neat Pellet stove that works wonders. Load it up and it's good for at least 2 days or more. Shop is fully insulated walls & ceiling. Much better for me. No wood to cut, load, move, etc.

 

olscrounger, you weren't tight you were just frugle like me!!! LOL.Bruce.

 

My garage is 24' x 26' x 8' and I mounted it in the middle of the 24' end up in the top corner by the ceiling and wall with the required 4" of clearance from combustibles.
The reflector is angled out at 45 degrees and it works great to heat the whole garage.

 

If you are still planning the slab, the cost of just the pex tubing is minimal in the big scheme. Run it and it's there when you can afford the heat system. My friends here who have installed it, love the heat. Can't install after the concrete is set.

 

I upgraded two years ago to one of these and not only does it stay consistent but my heating bill went WAY down.Once the concrete floor gets cold its tough to get it warmed up again.I dont let that happen and it doesn't break the bank.Id like to use a wood stove but I have no room.

 

Here's a question I conjured up in my mind---- if you laid down PEX in the slab, could you heat it with an electric hot water heater and a circulator pump? How efficient/inefficient would that be?

 

I'm sure you could do it. Though I think maintaining a temperature would be a bit difficult. You'd have some trial and error on setting your water heater temperature to provide the right temperature water to get the room to the right temperature.
Plus, I'm pretty sure water heaters aren't that efficient.

 

Electric water heaters are 100% efficient. Just depends on the cost of the KW if it would be economical.

 

If the water heater has enough BTUs to heat the room the circulation pump is switched with the thermostat to regulate room temp

 

Right...
That was my point about efficiency. As in, is a water heater an efficient way to heat a garage? For the dollar, probably not the most efficient method. It all comes down to dollars and cents, otherwise, who cares about efficiency?
And the thermostat can trigger the circulation pump, yes. But to heat a garage to 22 degrees celsius (for example), what does the water temperature of the water heater have to be set to? That's where the trial and error will come in.

 

Heat ? Don't need no stinking heat. It was 118 in my shop about a month ago. As soon as the sun comes up in Fl. it's open the doors and turn on all 5 fans.
I grew up in northern Michigan and remember my dad's shop warming up to the 40's in the winter.
Not for me anymore.

 

Always like to hear what others have came up with. Heat is a real financial enemy to car guys in the winter.

 

Yeah, but wouldn't the same trial and error apply to an oil or gas fired unit? I guess you have to figure the water capacity of the system versus the reserve capacity of the heater to keep it from short-cycling or drawing power constantly. Or perhaps use one of those new instant on-demand water heaters? Of course petroleum prices versus electric has to be considered, but my main question has to do with mechanical setup costs, etc. Figure a domestic HWH costs about $500 and an oil burner costs about $3000.

 

Blue One, thanks for the recommendation. That would be easier. I was trying to figure out if I should do like you did but without angling it and to get max dissipation of heat. Maybe just mount it width wise at centre of space for a more even and quicker heat dissipation?

 

Related. First read about this on another site.
The difference can improve an old door. It a spring loaded hinge roller that replaces them on an overhead door.

 

Does a Hot Wife count?...... lol
Doesn't get too bad most of the year, if it gets below freezing I use a little electric heat in the garage or I wait to play in the garage another day!

 

I have just said screw it and sealed the door with Styrofoam panels until April. Just putting a ceiling helps tremendously!

 

P.S. If the title of this thread is also a Game of Thrones reference, you rock. If not, ignore the sci-fi/fantasy nerd over here, all the wet willies and noogies had made me loopy......

 

A valid point. I hadn't factored in the cost of an oil burner into my mental figuring. I think there's obstacles to overcome with the HWH, but if one could figure out a practical solution, it might be a real savings.

 

30 years ago I made a huge mistake! I built a concrete block garage. It had its merits, fireproof, I could lay my own block and heat didn't seem very important to a 30 year old. The damned thing is impossible to heat!
As I've gotten older, I've given serious thought to tearing it down and building a conventional stud wall building that I can insulate. If I can't be comfortable, I can't face going out to the garage to work. (Bad arthritis) If I don't go out there to work, I sit in front of this computer and my mind rots.
From a practical standpoint, I probably don't have more than 10 years left to be active in a garage, is it worth the money to build a new garage, or should I find a new wintertime hobby.

 

Steve;
Insulate (very well) the *outside* of the block building. (Say, like, 4 to 6" of pink foam all around, + weatherproof siding). Figure out a way to fill the inside of the blocks w/something that absorbs heat & will release it later. Even sand will do. Also (super) insulate the roof/ceiling, or as close as you can get. What you will end up with, is a "thermal flywheel". As long as it's warm to start with, it'll keep going with just a small amount of added heat. If you can put together homemade solar panels ( called "heat grabbers". See: Mother Earth News for good examples.), heating will be even cheaper. The concrete block will absorb the initial heat load, release it later. If thought through, your set-up can be better than most - including mine. The floor will be a problem, but if you keep it warm starting in late summer/early fall, it'll be decent through winter & early spring.
Marcus...

 

Gearhead, you know I have one next to my fire place in the cabin.I think I will get one for the shop after reading your thread.Thanks Bruce..