This is funny cause I am having the same problem. I cured it by changing the firing order to 13726548. I could get it to run with 15426378 but only on TDC. if I moved the dist in either direction it would stall. When trying to start it the first time after changing the firing order I found a hole the size of Texas behind the carb. Pluged it up and the engine started right up. I set the timing and it idles properly. To prove the point I switched the firing order back to 15426378. It started but ran as if the timing was severely retarded. My engine is a doner have no idea where it came from, checked for ID numbers but found none. Good luck.
You can do what you want of course, but pretty much the entire automotive world has always (or at least the 50 years I've been doing this) considered the LEFT side/RIGHT side as viewed from the driver's seat looking forward. Just as you make a Left Turn, that is the Left side of the motor (also known as the driver's side in the US and other right lane driving country's). Why does it matter? Because when you talk to other folks this is the standard reference so everyone knows what the other is talking about. I think you will find most people do it this way. Just a thought ......
I know right side is the p***enger's side and left side is the driver's side. But sometimes we have to tell someone that it's the driver or p***enger side instead of right side and left side. Man, all of this thinking makes me hungry. I could go for a Rally's burger for lunch. **** it! I think I will....
Yep. Left/right side still seems to be a problem, especially for the great unwashed. Get that straight and we're ALL on the same page! Used to drive me nuts when some newby would come to the dealership (or my shop) and ARGUE about 'left and right'! Axeholes would argue with a priest in confession! 1. Compression test. 2. Refer to the underhood sticker in this thread, (page 2) for possible incorrect routing of ign. cables. Incorrect routing can (WILL) cause cross firing, ergo 'backfiring'. 3. Check wires for resistance with ohm meter, one end to the other. (Harbor Freight volt/ohm meter, $16.) These are simple tests, 'bonehead' (simple) but necessary.
ok starting and running thinking theres a vacuum leak idles fast like theres one, tomorrows project its cold out there
I use flammable brake-clean to find vacuum leaks on a running engine. If it's backfiring, this method could be risky business and involve the fire department.
Not to steal this thread but since everyone admits Ford is totally screwed up with timing on various engines, I have to ask about FEs. I have a 390 that is acting the same way; have gas @ carb, have spark, firing @ TDC on #1 (p***enger front) which is the only orientation I have seen for an FE but don't get a pop, even with starter fluid squired into carb. I admit I have only tried to start it a couple times and haven't done the all-day, deep digging routine but this thread gives me pause and I want to know if I need to go way back to the beginning.
in the interest of full disclosure: I am a Chevy guy. I recently built an FE engine for a 4x4 and couldn't get it to do more than pop and crackle a little bit when i tried to start it. A Ford guy stopped by my garage to see my project. He took one look and said "you have the plug wires in clockwise order. The rotor on an FE turns counter-clockwise". Re-did the wires and the engine has run splendid ever since. So check that.
Definitely something to recheck, thanx for the note. I think I set it up that way but I always spend a lot of time setting up Chevys and Chryslers and ALWAYS have the distributor 180deg out of phase so probably have the Phord clocked backward too.
ok its starting and running not too well and yes i know it sounds impossible but #1isnt firing or its dropping off cold header tube also , same one as stuck valve possibly waddya think ?????
I think we should go back to these days when it was running and running great get us a little history from there. There's a few things to try. Swap the plug and see if the problem follows the plug. Swap the wire and see if the problem follows the wire. Compression test.
Screwed up? Not at all, just differnt than the SBC that all the neanderthal's worship. It funny though because when NASCAR finally gave GM the go ahead and design a motor from Scratch, they put the distributor up front where it belongs and the rotation changed to same as Ford. And so Did Toyota ...... They finally figured out the superior design of putting the distributor at the front where cam whip doesn't cause timing variations.
You know 31vicky, you are gonna make a great dad someday. Your patience is bottomless compared to me!
My 1996 Ford F-150 302 was all electronic with a goofy looking air intake with 2 air meters on the top facing front not on the side like the cars. It even had a special computer to run it different from the 1995 on back. I guarantee you it did not have any point distributor and I'm not sure older technology could be put on it.. Good luck.
Then theres the FORDOS that run the plug wires in the wife's 72 burb, like the 57 Country Sedan because, 1) Fatigue 2) going too fast 3) beer 4) Ford guy.
Of course you can. Pull the electronic **** off, plug in a standard distributor long with a carb and you are golden. Just don't ask this guy to wire it up.
If you have a GM style HEI in it .Pull the dist. and make sure the shaft isn't slipping where they put it the Ford end on the shaft. I have one on my shelf that did similar things. Just would not run right .Changed dist. and it runs fine. Those GM adapted HEI's are junk as least the cheap ones.
The implication being that the more patient we are with our kids, the further down the pit we are falling?
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