Here's the scoop. I was gifted a '64 Falcon Sprint. I heard they came with both the 260 and the 289 so my first step was to find out which one it was. I also heard that some have it stamped right under the valve cover so yesterday I pulled the driver side cover and its stamped "302". I thought it was an original car but it looks like some work has been done to it. I'm not sure what the block is yet but is that confirmation enough that those are definitely 302 heads? I've already asked the guy who I got it from and he has no clue so any advice would help. Thanks.
Click on the "Introduce yourself"page and read the first item listed at the top...."Rules for the HAMB"
The quickest path to block identification is the casting number and date code found above the starter on the right-hand side of the block
Yea my next step is to look up the casting number after I find it. I'm planning on hot rod, so if it is a 302 in it I wouldn't be upset.
for info on body data plate I.D., engine/trans I.D., and more check out The Poorman's Off Chassis Restoration : www.tpocr.com
That should have a body code of 76D or 76E(going off memory for a sprint convertible). Plus, most sprints have fender emblems(which could have been filled) and a "sprint V8" taillight panel. There were many V8 Futura convertibles also so with a little emblem adding could appear as a sprint. The body code is the tell tale sign. That looks like a 64 so it only had the 260 V8 as an option with either FM2 automatic or Borg and Warner T10. Possibly a three on the tree thrown in there but not likely. Either way, very neat car. I have several falcons and there are plenty on this forum that have them also with way more knowledge about them than I do. Make sure you check the rockers and the torque boxes. They are very prone to rusting and that compromises the integrity of the whole car.
Definitely a 302 head, '68 to early 70s. Easy way to check if it's a five or six bolt block without crawling under the car looking for casting numbers is to check the top two belhousing bolts (accessible from the top) for size; the five bolt uses 3/8-16 (9/16" head), the six bolt uses 7/16-14 (5/8" head). Finding a six bolt is bad news if you're a restorer, good news if you're a hot rodder as transmission options are much wider for the later motor. OEM would be a 260; Falcon didn't get the 289 until '65. Only two trans choices for a '64 Sprint, column-shift 2-speed auto or 4-speed. The 4-speed would most likely be a T10, but a very few early cars got the new-for-'64 Ford toploader before production demands reserved them for the big-block cars only. Besides the emblems mentioned, you should also find a 'Sprint' emblem on each door inside, as well as a unique 'fake wood' 3-spoke steering wheel. All of this stuff is reproduced if missing or bad. If the car has bucket seats and console, be aware these are unique to the convertible only; the 'vert has additional floor bracing and both the floor height and contour is different (even the bench seat is different). There's also 'early' and 'late' versions of the car, so being aware of that is important. The '63-mid 64 cars used one type of steering linkage, the late '64-65 used linkage identical to the Mustang (except for the center link). Both types are available, but the early linkage cost about 5 times as much for replacement parts. There's also a early/late steering wheel/turn signal switch, same date change. All the Falcon convertibles used the 'V8' body shell, so you're golden there, regardless of what it was fitted with originally. Great gift!!
Thanks that's really helpful! I'll check the bellhousing out tomorrow, might still get the casting numbers just to find out what it came out of.
For Convertible Sprints, there should be a 14 in the vin right after the 4 and the letter that comes next for where it was built, so say its 4H14 that would mean built in 64, the H is the Loraine Ohio Plant, 14 is Sprint Convertible. If you have a 15 in the vin, its just a Futura with Sprint badges. Most original ones miss the Tacho on the dash. Also, if the build date is more into 1964, it may be a lowered option Sprint. When we got closer to the release of the Mustang, Ford decided to make the Sprint a check off the list option instead of everything at once. Rocker chrome for example. Pre 64 assembled Sprints have the full boat. They thought the Sprint would hurt Mustang sales.
So today I got the block casting numbers and it is indeed a 260 with 302 heads. I guess I'll never know why the heads were changed but they were. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yea I'm not sure how I feel about it lol or what to do about it for that matter. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
260 heads had 52-55cc chambers, The Smallest of the 302 heads had 53.5 but that is a rare C8OE or F casting known as the 4V head, The rest are going to have anywhere from 58.2cc to 63cc chambers and that is going to lower compression a bunch from the already low 8.7:1 that the 260's had. With the most common 63cc heads, you are now looking at about 7.9:1 Meaning that 260 ought to be making right about 159 HP using the original Gross HP rating less the compression drop, IF the rest of the motor is up to snuff. Now convert that to the commonly used NET HP (In use since 1971) and you've got about 135HP - at the Crank. That ought to be quite the Dog Many say that the steam holes are not the same and that you have to drill the 260 block to match the 302 head. Not everyone agrees with this though.
They've been on the 260 for a long time so I guess its been working fine, but who knows. I think I'm gonna go ahead and try to swap in either a 289 or 302. Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You'll need to find a complete engine/trans setup as the early trans won't fit the '65-up motors. If you go with a C4, try to find a '65 Falcon V8 steering column, that'll make connecting the shift linkage easy.
I've had a lot of these cars including a couple of 'verts you are going to want to check your floor pan (under dash), cowl (corners and air vents), front frame rails (at the shock towers and firewall ) `64 there are no torque boxes per se but on convertibles there are inner and outer rocker boxes, and the rear frame rails (under seat pan and at the shackle) for rust... especially behind the dash the cowl pan is notorious for rust around the fresh air intake tubes for the heating system. After that is all repaired or declared solid I would suggest a pair of frame rail connectors, a monte carlo bar (across the top of the engine compartment) and under engine pan bar to stiffen your frame. Aside from the steering box and centrelink you can use virtually everything from a 64.5 -'66 mustang suspension wise. The '64 steering that you have can be re-used but as already mentioned is more expensive to replace and of a poorer design. The best centrelink is a '65 Comet or Falcon V8 only. You will need the entire `65 box and column, and V8 centrelink they are unique to '65 V8 only and aren't interchangeable. The '64 box is 1 1/8" sector the '65 is 1". The '64 centrelink is more prone to bumpsteer than the redesigned mustang style '65. The manual centrelink is reproduced now but not the pwr. The power steering box is 16:1 ratio while the manual is 19:1. You can use the box from either a '65 V-8 or 6 cyl. car (1"sector). If you want disc brakes some people might suggest using Granada spindles for disc...Do Not use any `67 up spindles on pre `66 ford cars! this alters the ackermann angle and produces bump steer conditions!!... if you are going with the `65 V8 pwr strng centerlink find a pair of `65-`66 mustang or `65 comet falcon V8 spindles because of the funky L shaped v8 tie rod end. I believe your `64 spindles used a slightly different size tie rod end but you will probably be able to re-use them if you go with the `65 manual centrelink. The good thing is Ford used the same spindle for disc and drum up to `66 so you only need an adaptor plate and all the parts for a `66 mustang V8 4 piston disc set up, the pitman, idler and control arms etc. are all Mustang as well...the 260 will have a 5 bolt mounting...if it`s a c-4 or ford 0 matic you can fairly easily pull the later 6 bolt bell off any junk c-4 (held on by the front pump bolts) then you can re-use your trans.,`64 outer column tube & linkage, and original trans mount etc if you swap out the whole trans you can put the fordomatic tailhousing on a c-4 but make sure it is side vented (not rear vented) or you will have no vent... otherwise you can get an aftermarket crossmember that converts to the later style trans mount....also when swapping motors mixing matching drivelines etc. be aware of the small block ford balancing changes around `80
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